Black Nasty Cichlid Care Guide

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TheReefer

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Apr 13, 2019
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Scientific Name: Nandopsis haitiensis


Common Name: Black Nasty, Haitian Cichlid, Odo Cichlid


Endemic To: The fast flowing rivers and streams of Haiti


Size: Usually 14 inches, though 16 inches is not uncommon (35-40 cm)


Temperament: Well, the name says it all, it’s very aggressive and should only be kept with other fish that can handle themselves, though they are more commonly kept by themselves or in a male/female pair


Water Parameters: Like all fish, this fish needs a tank with no ammonia and no nitrites and less than 20 ppm of nitrates. This fish likes hard water, but is not picky about the other water parameters, with temperatures in the mid 80s to low 90s (84-92 F or 28.8-33 C) and a pH of 7.0-9.0 being acceptable, just make sure the water parameters are stable to prevent stress on the fish.


Tank Size: A single adult specimen should be kept in a minimum of a 180 gallon (72”x24”x24”) as this is an active and aggressive cichlid that is prone to banging itself up, a male/female pair can also be kept in a tank of this size.


Diet: This fish is an omnivore and should be fed low protein items (less than %50 dry weight protein) as this fish is very prone to bloating, and high quality pellets that contain both meaty items and plant items. For meaty items, some good ingredients to look for include krill, fish, shrimp, herring, and squid. For plant matter, some good ingredients to look for include spirulina, seaweed, chlorella, algae, and kelp. Some good brands include northfin, new life spectrum, and omega one.. Here are some good foods for this fish

New Life Spectrum Algaemax

Northfin Food Veggie Formula

Freeze Dried Jumbo Krill

Omega One Large Cichlid Pellets



Tank Set Up: The tank should be a minimum of 72”x24”x24” (The bigger the better) and be set up with a strong filter (a sump or canister filter would be your best bet), the water turnover rate should be around 10 times the volume of the tank (so a 180 would need 1800 gallons of water being pumped in per hour) to keep the fish and tank healthy. The tank should not have many large decorations as this fish is very boisterous and can get hurt on decorations, though small rocks, driftwood, and plants are acceptable (though the fish will likely rearrange the tank). This tank will likely need to be heated and it is recommend you put the heater in the sump or have a heater guard as this fish can burn itself on the heater or break the heater.


Breeding: You can sex a black nasty cichlid by looking at their genitals, the females is larger and rounder than the males and the females are mostly black, the males are mostly white, and the males also get larger and get a nuchal hump. Once you get a male and female pair that get along, keep the water clean and make sure they are being fed well and the female should lay anywhere from 40-150 eggs on a flat surface. The fry are VERY sensitive to poor water quality and fluctuations in water parameters, so care must be taken when raising the fry. The female will take care of the fry for 1-2 months. If the fry are not well fed, they may begin to cannibalize the parents.
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Here is a picture from duanes duanes in which the fry began to eat the male


Thank you to duanes duanes and kno4te kno4te for helping me with this care guide
 
Diet: This fish is an omnivore and should be fed low protein items (less than %50 dry weight protein) as this fish is very prone to bloating



In case you hadn't noticed, the freeze dried krill that you linked to has a minimum crude protein content of 52%.
 
as long as it isn't a staple it should be fine

And you know this from experience? Have you kept this species in the past, or are these care guides all formulated from simply gleaning information from the internet? Not trying to be a hard ass, but it sure seems like the latter to me.

Personally I would never feed freeze dried krill to a fish that is known to have the potential of having serious gastrointestinal issues. (bloating) As I explained to you when you PM'd me regarding this fishes diet, bloat is caused from stress, not protein, but stress can come in many forms, including dietary stress from sudden changes in the diet. I've never kept haits, but I have kept numerous bloat prone species of fish over the years, and my advice has always been to keep things simple, and don't deviate from that plan.
 
This brings up an interesting point.
There have been a number of generic care guides out there, obviously written by authors who have never kept that species of fish for any extended period of time.
And I believe this is unfortunate, because gleaning information from outside sources can be tricky, and unreliable if not vetted.
You may notice I "never even comment" about a fish I haven't personally kept, and kept for an extended length of time (3-5 years or more would be a period I consider reasonable), keeping a fish for a few months, or even a year, is hardly what I'd call experience.
If you write a care guide, or just simply post a comment on MFK, your actual personal experience with that fish should be noted in that post, and/or if you have picked up info from outside sources, authors, and source material should be cited.
I believe if these details were available, we would not see some of the erroneous info that I often see that is on the verge of ridiculous.
 
And you know this from experience? Have you kept this species in the past, or are these care guides all formulated from simply gleaning information from the internet? Not trying to be a hard ass, but it sure seems like the latter to me.

Personally I would never feed freeze dried krill to a fish that is known to have the potential of having serious gastrointestinal issues. (bloating) As I explained to you when you PM'd me regarding this fishes diet, bloat is caused from stress, not protein, but stress can come in many forms, including dietary stress from sudden changes in the diet. I've never kept haits, but I have kept numerous bloat prone species of fish over the years, and my advice has always been to keep things simple, and don't deviate from that plan.
Yes I do have limited experience with them and know how to properly care for them, though I don't have experience breeding them, but i consulted someone who does have experience in breeding them
 
are these care guides all formulated from simply gleaning information from the internet?
Am I the only one that has connected the dots?
 
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While I agree with some of what Duane posted, there are a lot of scenarios where one doesn't require 3-5 yrs of hands on experience, to answer certain questions. As an example, I have enough hands on experience with species that are considered bloat magnets, to understand the dynamics of how to properly feed that type of fish, no matter the species. On the other hand I have seen people with years of hands on experience with certain fish, giving what I consider horrible advice. Kind of like my wife giving driving advice. Even after 40 yrs of personal experience in driving various motor vehicles, she's not where I would send people looking for advice. lol

What seems to be lacking a lot in this hobby, is common sense.

Nothing personal Mike, but if one feels that they have enough hands on experience to write "care guides", and post them on the WWW, at the very least I expect to see pics of your fish, and your tanks, and your hands on experience being shared. Then build on that, with possibly new information/data/studies that add some substance to the guide. I think Hendre Hendre mentioned to you in a previous care guide that you wrote up, yours look no different than a 1000 others just like it that one can find on the internet.

Posting on a subject on a fish forum is one thing, if someone drops the ball other more experienced members will clue them in, but in my mind a care guide could come across to many viewers that you are actually qualified to write them. From what I have seen thus far, you aren't.
 
Some details about my experiences with them.
I had been keeping cichlids about 25 years before I got my first haitiensus so I thought I knew what I was doing.
I bought a dozen 1" juvies, and put them in a 150 gallon tank to grow out together, they systematically killed each other off 1 by 1.
About a year later I got a deal on another half dozen (a little large 2-3" juvies).
This time I gave each in its own compartment, each with a flower pot to hide in, but egg crate dividers providing sight lines. Sometimes it seemed just mean mugging each other would kill the less dominant one.
I ended up with a single pair that spawned many times, producing hundreds of fry.
They went on to live about 5 years, until a power outage temp drop, killed the female.
This is one of the most sensitive cichlids I have ever had, at least thru the first few inches of life so
general cichlid experience with this species, may not hold up.
 
You may notice the only care guides on this site are posted by people that have quite an experience with a species, and is often on fish that don't have a great source of reliable information. No harm intended but this isn't really sticky worthy information :(
 
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