The photo looks so dramatic because the bow in the tank makes it reflect like the fatso mirror at the funhouse. Convex mirror effect. The actual bulge has slowly grown from 3/8" to almost 3/4". Also the seams are all starting to show.
My tank is failing . . .
- Thread starter Ulu
- Start date
The photo looks so dramatic because the bow in the tank makes it reflect like the fatso mirror at the funhouse. Convex mirror effect. The actual bulge has slowly grown from 3/8" to almost 3/4". Also the seams are all starting to show.
If it popped, it could destroy 4 rooms of carpet and my overstuffed furmiture.
At least the books are safe.
So this is where I am now. I can't have many real plants. Felix will shred them for fun.
I need to drop the drain height so I can run the sump. It's going to be a trick without draining the tank.
Vibration could cause leaks so I can't saw or drill easily.
I'm going to poke 12 holes in the pipe with a small soldering iron.
First I must remove more water.
Did you ever check the bow/ straightness when you first got the tank ?
I’ve seen new tanks bow also
I’ve seen new tanks bow also
I'm just spitballing here: could you lower the water level so that the frame is straight, then build a framework (wooden or otherwise) around the top and bottom perimeters to keep them from bowing? The framework at the top could have as many front-to-back crossbraces as you want. It would completely change the look of your tank, but maybe it would add to your peace of mind?
I say this only because any tank that has that visible waterline running along the front requires continuous cleaning to keep the water line looking good. Otherwise, you get a crusty mineral deposit that is very unattractive. Even glass tanks start to show their age if they are cleaned constantly at that point; wouldn't acrylic scratch very easily and begin to be unsightly? Again, I am not trying to be negative and don't know for sure, just mentioning it for your consideration.
As far as dropping the watel level by lowering the height of the drain standpipe, why not just plan on cutting the pipe while doing a large water change that drops the water level below the desired level? If you are taking that step anyway, I would be inclined to cut the pipe below the lowest level that I thought I would use, then install a union on it so that I could easily adjust the level simply by changing that top piece. A change in water level would require only the purchase of a couple of extra unions and the just use the top halves with various lengths of pipe glued in. Or, you could use the same union and not glue the top piece in place, allowing you to swap it out anytime you like.
Depending upon what your drain standpipe is made of, burning it with a soldering iron could produce toxic fumes that you don't want in your house. Plan on having excellent ventilation just in case.
I say this only because any tank that has that visible waterline running along the front requires continuous cleaning to keep the water line looking good. Otherwise, you get a crusty mineral deposit that is very unattractive. Even glass tanks start to show their age if they are cleaned constantly at that point; wouldn't acrylic scratch very easily and begin to be unsightly? Again, I am not trying to be negative and don't know for sure, just mentioning it for your consideration.
As far as dropping the watel level by lowering the height of the drain standpipe, why not just plan on cutting the pipe while doing a large water change that drops the water level below the desired level? If you are taking that step anyway, I would be inclined to cut the pipe below the lowest level that I thought I would use, then install a union on it so that I could easily adjust the level simply by changing that top piece. A change in water level would require only the purchase of a couple of extra unions and the just use the top halves with various lengths of pipe glued in. Or, you could use the same union and not glue the top piece in place, allowing you to swap it out anytime you like.
Depending upon what your drain standpipe is made of, burning it with a soldering iron could produce toxic fumes that you don't want in your house. Plan on having excellent ventilation just in case.
These are made with bare min thickness
For there size
Bowing will happen unless tank is overbuilt my 300 would need to be 1 inch thick to get less bowing and my 125 would need to be 3/4
But imagine the cost of that tank
For there size
Bowing will happen unless tank is overbuilt my 300 would need to be 1 inch thick to get less bowing and my 125 would need to be 3/4
But imagine the cost of that tank
Wow! Yeah, that's too much bow for comfort, or aesthetics
This tank bulged 3/8" when first filled. As it aged several months, it slowly bulged more and more.
It's over 1/2" top to bottom now and closer to 3/4" say 17-18mm.
The seams are all crazing and the corners have picked up off the stand. I put clear plastic shims under all the corners.
Glass from now on...
I lowered the water 20% and the bulging reduced considerably. I drained more water until the sump was almost full, and made a new hole in my drain pipe at that level.
I actually removed another 10g temporarily, as I made the hole with a sharpened soldering iron.
Held inside a half-full tank. Yeeesh! "Don't drop it Ulu!"
The fish and me coulda both been dancing.
I wrapped the pipe with x-coarse filter media and zip ties. Once I got the system balanced out I was much happier with the low water level.
I was trying to make my drainage reliable and bulletproof. Well, Oscar-proof. He bites everything on a regular basis. I can't have heaters or thermometers in his tank. The one I put in last night is hidden, but it's coming out before bedtime. I don't trust that fish.
Anyhow I made it too solid and now regretting so much.
Fortunately, in case of a split seam (it's not the bulging as much as the seams) I have other tanks for the fish. Felix won't like it, but he would live. I could put him in the 40 breeder and let him fatten up on mollies...
This tank bulged 3/8" when first filled. As it aged several months, it slowly bulged more and more.
It's over 1/2" top to bottom now and closer to 3/4" say 17-18mm.
The seams are all crazing and the corners have picked up off the stand. I put clear plastic shims under all the corners.
Glass from now on...
I lowered the water 20% and the bulging reduced considerably. I drained more water until the sump was almost full, and made a new hole in my drain pipe at that level.
I actually removed another 10g temporarily, as I made the hole with a sharpened soldering iron.
Held inside a half-full tank. Yeeesh! "Don't drop it Ulu!"
The fish and me coulda both been dancing.
I wrapped the pipe with x-coarse filter media and zip ties. Once I got the system balanced out I was much happier with the low water level.
I was trying to make my drainage reliable and bulletproof. Well, Oscar-proof. He bites everything on a regular basis. I can't have heaters or thermometers in his tank. The one I put in last night is hidden, but it's coming out before bedtime. I don't trust that fish.
Anyhow I made it too solid and now regretting so much.
Fortunately, in case of a split seam (it's not the bulging as much as the seams) I have other tanks for the fish. Felix won't like it, but he would live. I could put him in the 40 breeder and let him fatten up on mollies...
I feel for you Ulu. I had a bad experience with a custom 260gallon starphire glass. The silicone between euro-brace and wall started to slight crack. It's one thing to chance it if it's in a basement or garage but not living room so I'd do the same.
Unfortunately, the manufacturer didn't do a good job, imo. I would not blame acrylic for that. At the size you have the walls should be at least 3/4" and 1/2" top and bottom. But honestly price is not much more and I'd go all 3/4". Are you sure you want the manufacturer that built the acrylic to build your glass? I think you mentioned that?
Good luck and I hope you get this resolved to your satisfaction.
Unfortunately, the manufacturer didn't do a good job, imo. I would not blame acrylic for that. At the size you have the walls should be at least 3/4" and 1/2" top and bottom. But honestly price is not much more and I'd go all 3/4". Are you sure you want the manufacturer that built the acrylic to build your glass? I think you mentioned that?
Good luck and I hope you get this resolved to your satisfaction.
