I bought a red tail catfish about a week and half ago and it hasn’t eaten I’ve actually even seen it floating upside down and thought it was dead but then he swam back under a log hide I got for him I’m not sure what the issue is ph is at about 7.4 nitrate nitrites at 0 and other fish in the tank are healthy and eating please help.
Red tail catfish
- Thread starter Cmba
- Start date
What about ammonia? Your should NOT be at zero nitrate, that's concerning
I haven’t tested for ammonia but I did just do a 50% so I imagine it’s 0 if not low. I’ve been using the 5-1 test strips so they aren’t the most accurate I imagine the strip showed pretty much 0 color change for nitrate/nitrite
The test strips are not recommended for a serious hobbyist with serious fish like an RTC. You need to buy a $20 liquid kit like an API Freshwater test kit.
Ammonia must be unreadable by this test kit, firmly at zero ppm at all times.
Don't be intimidated by the number of questions. You need not to answer all if you don't know / have no info, but the more you answer the better and quicker we should be able to help you.
......
Water Parameters
by a liquid test tube kit, such as the API freshwater master kit:
-- ammonia, ppm
-- nitrite, ppm
-- nitrate, ppm (before and after water change)
-- pH of tank and tap (before and after water change)
-- is the pH steady?
-- dissolved oxygen (DO) or description of aeration and stirring
-- temperature
-- is the temperature steady? (no significant swings?)
-- carbonate and general hardness, KH and GH, by a liquid test
-- TDS, ppm
-- or a general indication of TDS or water hardness and salinity
Water Source and Water Change
-- municipal or private
-- disinfected by chlorine / chloramine or non-disinfected?
-- if disinfected, how is water conditioned before water change?
-- average water changes (WC) on tank:
how much
how often
Tank
-- size
-- length, width, and height
-- time of running
-- if the tank is new:
how long was the tank cycled?
how was it cycled?
Stock (all fish, not just sick ones)
-- what species
-- how many each
-- estimated size of each
-- how long fish in question have been in tank
-- how long tank mates have been in tank
-- tank mate interactions, any aggression?
-- wild caught (wc) or captive bred (cb)
-- dewormed or not
-- treated against other parasites or not
Filtration
-- type: canister, HOB, or sump?
-- size
-- pump flow, gallons or liters per hour?
-- how often cleaned
-- how cleaned
Diet
-- what is the fish fed?
-- how much
-- how often
-- what are the tank mates fed?
Disease Symptoms, etc.
appetite
lethargic
bloated
swimming pattern
spots (where on body)
fuzzy patches (where on body)
excess slime
distorted features
color change
cloudy or swollen eyes
prior health history
-- of fish
-- of tank mates
were fish quarantined before being added to tank?
did the tank experience any previous disease out breaks?
-- what were they?
-- when were they?
medications used
Photos
-- the entire tank
-- close-ups of the fish and problem areas
Ammonia must be unreadable by this test kit, firmly at zero ppm at all times.
Don't be intimidated by the number of questions. You need not to answer all if you don't know / have no info, but the more you answer the better and quicker we should be able to help you.
......
Water Parameters
by a liquid test tube kit, such as the API freshwater master kit:
-- ammonia, ppm
-- nitrite, ppm
-- nitrate, ppm (before and after water change)
-- pH of tank and tap (before and after water change)
-- is the pH steady?
-- dissolved oxygen (DO) or description of aeration and stirring
-- temperature
-- is the temperature steady? (no significant swings?)
-- carbonate and general hardness, KH and GH, by a liquid test
-- TDS, ppm
-- or a general indication of TDS or water hardness and salinity
Water Source and Water Change
-- municipal or private
-- disinfected by chlorine / chloramine or non-disinfected?
-- if disinfected, how is water conditioned before water change?
-- average water changes (WC) on tank:
how much
how often
Tank
-- size
-- length, width, and height
-- time of running
-- if the tank is new:
how long was the tank cycled?
how was it cycled?
Stock (all fish, not just sick ones)
-- what species
-- how many each
-- estimated size of each
-- how long fish in question have been in tank
-- how long tank mates have been in tank
-- tank mate interactions, any aggression?
-- wild caught (wc) or captive bred (cb)
-- dewormed or not
-- treated against other parasites or not
Filtration
-- type: canister, HOB, or sump?
-- size
-- pump flow, gallons or liters per hour?
-- how often cleaned
-- how cleaned
Diet
-- what is the fish fed?
-- how much
-- how often
-- what are the tank mates fed?
Disease Symptoms, etc.
appetite
lethargic
bloated
swimming pattern
spots (where on body)
fuzzy patches (where on body)
excess slime
distorted features
color change
cloudy or swollen eyes
prior health history
-- of fish
-- of tank mates
were fish quarantined before being added to tank?
did the tank experience any previous disease out breaks?
-- what were they?
-- when were they?
medications used
Photos
-- the entire tank
-- close-ups of the fish and problem areas
Water Parameters
by a liquid test tube kit, such as the API freshwater master kit:
-- ammonia, ppm came back at 0 with the water test kit I bought
-- nitrite, ppm nitrate and nitrite both read pretty close to 0 haven’t changed the water to test again
-- nitrate, ppm (before and after water change)
-- pH of tank and tap (before and after water change) ph has been steady at around 7-7.4 can’t get it to move up any further I’ve tried adding activated carbon to the filter but no results
-- is the pH steady?yes
-- dissolved oxygen (DO) or description of aeration and stirring
-- temperature 78% just bought an adjustable heater I’ll be keeping the tank at about 80
-- is the temperature steady? (no significant swings?) yes
-- carbonate and general hardness, KH and GH, by a liquid test KH was a tad above 40 GH is at 100
-- TDS, ppm
-- or a general indication of TDS or water hardness and salinity
Water Source and Water Change
-- municipal or private private
-- disinfected by chlorine / chloramine or non-disinfected?
-- if disinfected, how is water conditioned before water change? De chlorinated with a make tap water safe bottle
-- average water changes (WC) on tank: once a week
how much 50%
how often Weekly
Tank
-- size 29 gallon right now but I just bought a 40 it’s cycling right now no fish in it
-- length, width, and height
-- time of running had it for about a year now
-- if the tank is new:
how long was the tank cycled?
how was it cycled?
Stock (all fish, not just sick ones)
-- what species jewel cichlid, lemon Oscar and a peacock bass
-- how many each
-- estimated size of each they’re all under 2 “
-- how long fish in question have been in tank 3 weeks or so
-- how long tank mates have been in tank
-- tank mate interactions, any aggression? They actually all get along very well I was surprised
-- wild caught (wc) or captive bred (cb) cb
-- dewormed or not
-- treated against other parasites or not I treated the tank with aquarium salt an herbal parasite killer and melafix all at different times in case
Filtration
-- type: canister, HOB, or sump? It’s one that hangs on the back I’m not sure what they’re called
-- size it’s meant for a 75 gallon
-- pump flow, gallons or liters per hour? Don’t recall what the exact amount is but well over 200 gph
-- how often cleaned every couple weeks or so
-- how cleaned
Diet
-- what is the fish fed? Rosies every now and then small worms and I bought cichlid pellets that the catfish started eating
-- how much half a dozen rosies every week a few worms and only enough pellets for them to eat right away
-- how often daily
-- what are the tank mates fed?
Disease Symptoms, etc.
appetite
lethargic
bloated
swimming pattern
spots (where on body)
fuzzy patches (where on body)
excess slime
distorted features
color change
cloudy or swollen eyes
prior health history
-- of fish
-- of tank mates
were fish quarantined before being added to tank?
did the tank experience any previous disease out breaks?
-- what were they?
-- when were they?
medications used
Photos
-- the entire tank in the process of prepping them for a move to a larger tank so photos will have to wait
-- close-ups of the fish and problem areas
by a liquid test tube kit, such as the API freshwater master kit:
-- ammonia, ppm came back at 0 with the water test kit I bought
-- nitrite, ppm nitrate and nitrite both read pretty close to 0 haven’t changed the water to test again
-- nitrate, ppm (before and after water change)
-- pH of tank and tap (before and after water change) ph has been steady at around 7-7.4 can’t get it to move up any further I’ve tried adding activated carbon to the filter but no results
-- is the pH steady?yes
-- dissolved oxygen (DO) or description of aeration and stirring
-- temperature 78% just bought an adjustable heater I’ll be keeping the tank at about 80
-- is the temperature steady? (no significant swings?) yes
-- carbonate and general hardness, KH and GH, by a liquid test KH was a tad above 40 GH is at 100
-- TDS, ppm
-- or a general indication of TDS or water hardness and salinity
Water Source and Water Change
-- municipal or private private
-- disinfected by chlorine / chloramine or non-disinfected?
-- if disinfected, how is water conditioned before water change? De chlorinated with a make tap water safe bottle
-- average water changes (WC) on tank: once a week
how much 50%
how often Weekly
Tank
-- size 29 gallon right now but I just bought a 40 it’s cycling right now no fish in it
-- length, width, and height
-- time of running had it for about a year now
-- if the tank is new:
how long was the tank cycled?
how was it cycled?
Stock (all fish, not just sick ones)
-- what species jewel cichlid, lemon Oscar and a peacock bass
-- how many each
-- estimated size of each they’re all under 2 “
-- how long fish in question have been in tank 3 weeks or so
-- how long tank mates have been in tank
-- tank mate interactions, any aggression? They actually all get along very well I was surprised
-- wild caught (wc) or captive bred (cb) cb
-- dewormed or not
-- treated against other parasites or not I treated the tank with aquarium salt an herbal parasite killer and melafix all at different times in case
Filtration
-- type: canister, HOB, or sump? It’s one that hangs on the back I’m not sure what they’re called
-- size it’s meant for a 75 gallon
-- pump flow, gallons or liters per hour? Don’t recall what the exact amount is but well over 200 gph
-- how often cleaned every couple weeks or so
-- how cleaned
Diet
-- what is the fish fed? Rosies every now and then small worms and I bought cichlid pellets that the catfish started eating
-- how much half a dozen rosies every week a few worms and only enough pellets for them to eat right away
-- how often daily
-- what are the tank mates fed?
Disease Symptoms, etc.
appetite
lethargic
bloated
swimming pattern
spots (where on body)
fuzzy patches (where on body)
excess slime
distorted features
color change
cloudy or swollen eyes
prior health history
-- of fish
-- of tank mates
were fish quarantined before being added to tank?
did the tank experience any previous disease out breaks?
-- what were they?
-- when were they?
medications used
Photos
-- the entire tank in the process of prepping them for a move to a larger tank so photos will have to wait
-- close-ups of the fish and problem areas
-- pH of tank and tap (before and after water change) ph has been steady at around 7-7.4 can’t get it to move up any further I’ve tried adding activated carbon to the filter but no results
***Messing with pH is a bad idea. Please explain why you want it to move up? I don't see any need. Carbon would have no effect on pH. Carbon is a waste of space and money IMhumO.
-- carbonate and general hardness, KH and GH, by a liquid test KH was a tad above 40 GH is at 100
***KH is a bit low 40 ppm = 2 grain or 2 droplets or 2 degree. You need more carbonate in your water E.g., a small bag of crushed coral in your filter. With such low KH you may experience pH swings, especially as the fish grow and the bioload increases. You probably want to shoot for KH of at least 6 droplets but a liquid test. Ditch strips if this is what you use.
-- what species jewel cichlid, lemon Oscar and a peacock bass; they’re all under 2 “
***Soon your RTC will grow and eat them up.
-- how often cleaned every couple weeks or so
***Unless you provide explaining details, to me this is excessive, should be at least months not weeks, or longer.
-- what is the fish fed? Rosies every now and then small worms and I bought cichlid pellets that the catfish started eating
-- how much half a dozen rosies every week a few worms and only enough pellets for them to eat right away
***So the RTC is eating. You must be all set then? Don't feed the fish live feeder fish or you will introduce a bad pathogen sooner or later.
-- the entire tank in the process of prepping them for a move to a larger tank so photos will have to wait
***Sorry, I don't see a connection.
***Messing with pH is a bad idea. Please explain why you want it to move up? I don't see any need. Carbon would have no effect on pH. Carbon is a waste of space and money IMhumO.
-- carbonate and general hardness, KH and GH, by a liquid test KH was a tad above 40 GH is at 100
***KH is a bit low 40 ppm = 2 grain or 2 droplets or 2 degree. You need more carbonate in your water E.g., a small bag of crushed coral in your filter. With such low KH you may experience pH swings, especially as the fish grow and the bioload increases. You probably want to shoot for KH of at least 6 droplets but a liquid test. Ditch strips if this is what you use.
-- what species jewel cichlid, lemon Oscar and a peacock bass; they’re all under 2 “
***Soon your RTC will grow and eat them up.
-- how often cleaned every couple weeks or so
***Unless you provide explaining details, to me this is excessive, should be at least months not weeks, or longer.
-- what is the fish fed? Rosies every now and then small worms and I bought cichlid pellets that the catfish started eating
-- how much half a dozen rosies every week a few worms and only enough pellets for them to eat right away
***So the RTC is eating. You must be all set then? Don't feed the fish live feeder fish or you will introduce a bad pathogen sooner or later.
-- the entire tank in the process of prepping them for a move to a larger tank so photos will have to wait
***Sorry, I don't see a connection.
Viktor, you are a treasure sir.