Yeah im not about to even try check valves. I have no room for a second sump, I have to work with what I have unfortunately.
Stopping back syphon on a rack system
- Thread starter jim barry
- Start date
Here is a pic of one of the drain lines. The return line looks exactly the same but sits a little higher. Same set up on each of the 3 display tanks so you can see I must lose about 1" of water from each tank to the sump and then this water goes straight down the overflow in the sump that allows for auto water changing so can not be changed. So when the return pump starts back up there is not enough water in the sump to refill each display tank and the sump runs to about 3" in water height compared to the normal 8" or so in normal running condition.
The back of this drain line is a hard plumped 90 degree and I can't get at it to change it, and same goes for each display tank.
The back of this drain line is a hard plumped 90 degree and I can't get at it to change it, and same goes for each display tank.
Does that strainer come out?
If so get a 90° street elbow and put that in it's place. You may have to modify it a bit to keep the tank level at the same height while it's running but you will get less water out of the tank in a power out situation. You may be able to put that strainer on top or have to come up with something else to stop fish from going on a rollercoaster ride to the sump. I know
duanes
uses elbows on his intakes as do others maybe one of them can post a pic to give a clearer idea of how. I don't have any currently running on any of my tanks.
If so get a 90° street elbow and put that in it's place. You may have to modify it a bit to keep the tank level at the same height while it's running but you will get less water out of the tank in a power out situation. You may be able to put that strainer on top or have to come up with something else to stop fish from going on a rollercoaster ride to the sump. I know
duanes
uses elbows on his intakes as do others maybe one of them can post a pic to give a clearer idea of how. I don't have any currently running on any of my tanks.
These upturned overflow valves keep more wateri n the tank during power stopages, in this way I am able to run my sumps almost full.
I usually put 5 tanks of about 100-150 gallons per sump, and don't use baffles in the sumps, I just place biomedia in mesh bags, situated where flow feels strongest, and find baffles to limiting compared to their actual usefulness.
Nice idea but no they are glued solid. I tried to remove them when I first got the rack as I didn't like them.
As
twentyleagues
suggested the solution is to install elbows on the drain to limit the water draining down on power failure. The return line needs two elbows to raise it above the water level. If the bulkhead is below the water level a syphon brake will not help without the return being above the water level first.
twentyleagues
suggested the solution is to install elbows on the drain to limit the water draining down on power failure. The return line needs two elbows to raise it above the water level. If the bulkhead is below the water level a syphon brake will not help without the return being above the water level first.Yeah that's what is dawning on me. Only way then would be to break those white fins on the drain with pliers and hope I can get a snug fit elbow without having to empty the entire system so I can glue it. I don't see any other way around this problem other than a bigger sump.As
The return line sits as near as damn it to the water line so that's not an issue.
