American cichlid fishroom tank sizes

[Crazylegs78]

So I'm finishing up the interior and floor drain of my fishroom project. It's now time for me to start considering room layouts, but I'm stuck on tank sizing for a certain group of fish. Here's some more info;

1) I'm not interested in community tanks, I'm wanting to keep specimen pairs of fish like Carpintis, Dempsey's, Citrinellus, Argentea, etc...fish that mature around 12"-14".

2) Using 75g tanks over 125g+ tanks will allow for many more species to be bred/kept. From my research, 75g is a minimum for most of these. I understand bigger is better.

3) 8x125g tanks is the same footprint as 12x75g tanks in my layouts, so that's 4 extra species to be kept/bred.

From your experience, is it reasonable to expect good quality pairs (with some breeding) from 75g tanks using the "hole in divider" method for the fish in this group?

Is there maybe a general rule? 14"- -> 75g, 14"+ -> 125g?

I know there are many variables (individual agression, species agression, etc) but I still need a plan right?!

Thanks in advance for any insight!

Here's some pics for entertainment. Don't worry, the festae have their own 6ft tanks.

 

[Rocksor]

duanes

 

[dogofwar]

Cool project! If you can, work in an automatic water change system. My fishroom is plumbed to change water (by zone) as frequently as I want.

I'd do a combination of 75s and 125s. For breeding, most of them will be divided so even with big fish you can get away with 75g. But for really big fish (like a 14" argentea or the like) a 125g or even 180g is better.

Also, don't forget smaller tanks or even tubs for growing out fry and raising smaller fish you've acquired. You can use big tanks divided with Poret as well.

 

[duanes]

Most of the species you mention will spawn when fairly small, at only 3-4", and when young a 75 may work.
As 8-12" adults, I find 75 gals too small, and such a small tank usually puts one or the other individual at risk.
I have had spawns from every species you mention, and use minimum 125 per pair when larger than 8", with dividers..

 

[Crazylegs78]

Cool project! If you can, work in an automatic water change system. My fishroom is plumbed to change water (by zone) as frequently as I want.

I'd do a combination of 75s and 125s. For breeding, most of them will be divided so even with big fish you can get away with 75g. But for really big fish (like a 14" argentea or the like) a 125g or even 180g is better.

Also, don't forget smaller tanks or even tubs for growing out fry and raising smaller fish you've acquired. You can use big tanks divided with Poret as well.

Yeah, I figured it would take a combination of 75g's and 125g's, but was clueless to any sort of ratio. Poret foam dividers!!! Genious!!! -> Make big tanks smaller using the given filtration! I've got some 40B's planned and a few smaller tanks for fry. Yes, definitely adding auto waterchange system with overflows. I've so much to learn...

Most of the species you mention will spawn when fairly small, at only 3-4", and when young a 75 may work.
As 8-12" adults, I find 75 gals too small, and such a small tank usually puts one or the other individual at risk.
I have had spawns from every species you mention, and use minimum 125 per pair when larger than 8", with dividers..

Thank you for this. This gives me somewhere to start planning. A 125g for each adult pair I plan to keep.

 

[fishguy1978]

I would ditch the prefab aquarium stands and build racks so you can stack tanks and increase your volume.

 

[Crazylegs78]

I would ditch the prefab aquarium stands and build racks so you can stack tanks and increase your volume.

Most agreed! Not sure if you noticed, but behind the big tank in the dark room pic, there is the beginnings of a 180g tank rack. The stands I have now came with the tanks, which were deals that were too good to pass up. FWIW, I do not recommend this to anyone who might be reading. Finish the fishroom first, then buy tanks.

 

[dogofwar]

Most of my tanks aren't drilled so I use DIY overflows to a main drain line that waters my yard / raised beds.

95% of the filtration in my room is air-driven (Poret, box filters, sponge filters) with a few powerheads and "dump" (overhead) filters for big tanks.

My interest runs more toward medium-sized cichlids (and not big ones) so 40Bs are great sizes. I also have a bunch of 2'x2'x1' 30gs which are good for grow out and smaller pairs.

Yeah, I figured it would take a combination of 75g's and 125g's, but was clueless to any sort of ratio. Poret foam dividers!!! Genious!!! -> Make big tanks smaller using the given filtration! I've got some 40B's planned and a few smaller tanks for fry. Yes, definitely adding auto waterchange system with overflows. I've so much to learn...


Thank you for this. This gives me somewhere to start planning. A 125g for each adult pair I plan to keep.

 

[Crazylegs78]

Most of my tanks aren't drilled so I use DIY overflows to a main drain line that waters my yard / raised beds.

I need to work on this. It has crossed my mind, but my fishroom is in a detached garage behind my house, so this will take significant planning.

Right now all my filters are an air driven combination of poret foam and k1 media. I don't think I'll need much beyond this because I plant to stock lightly. I did run a couple of extra circuits to the room just in case.

What do you do for filling the tanks after vaccuming, python style set-up?

 

[dogofwar]

Here's my detached garage fishroom (work in progress, of course):

. There's also a part 2

Make sure you pay special attention to insulation, air circulation, water and electricity. I ran water and beefed up electrical to the garage so that I could install a beefed up electrical box for an on-demand hot water heater, split unit HVAC, dehumidifier, air pumps and fans. Also had a couple of extra windows and 4 skylights installed and, of course, insulated and finished the walls (with greenboard and mold-proof paint).