Treatment for Anchor Worms

[Cichlids+Oddballs]

Have you tested your water?

Yes

If I did not test my water...

1. ...I recognize that I will likely be asked to do a test, and that water tests are critical for solving freshwater health problems.

Do you do water changes?

Yes

If I do not change my water...

1. ...I recognize that I will likely be recommended to do a water change, and water changes are critical for preventing future freshwater health problems.

Hi all,

Been reading the posts for a while and enjoy the content! I recently ran into issues with anchor worms and I have several infected fish that I have isolated into one tank.

I've been dosing with Microlift and doing water changes about once every 3-7 days for about 3 weeks now (about 30-60% change at a time, and redosing Microlift after water change). Intermittently, I have been taking the fishes out to pull off worms I can see.

There are still adult anchor worms (that I can see) on 2 or 3 fishes. I realize the adult female anchor worms are pretty tough to kill and might have a 30 day life span. I just want to make sure I'm on the right track regarding treatment. Also want to confirm that Microlift will kill off the female adults or at least stop the anchor worm life cycle. Of course, other suggestions welcome on any speedier way to move past this problem. Also, any input on whether Microlift can be used with other chemicals would be tremendously helpful. I do add API Stress Coat+, Seachem Flourish, and algae remover with each water change along with Microlift. Appreciate all the help!

 

[phreeflow]

Tried meds for anchor worms and nothing worked as well as manually removing the worms, adding salt, and an antibiotic (kanaplex)for secondary infections.

 

[Cichlids+Oddballs]

Appreciate the feedback! How much salt should I be putting in the tank? Also, are there fishes I should not be using salt with? My infected parties are Denison barbs, a Geophagus, and a baby Datnoid.

 

[duanes]

When I had Lernae in the tank, beside removing them manually

I raised the salinity to about 3.5 ppt (slightly over 3lbs of salt per 100 gallons).
The young Lernae cannot withstand that amount of osmotic pressure (although it doesn't;t kill the adults)

 

[Cichlids+Oddballs]

Thank you! At a straight conversion, 3 lbs for 100 gallons would equal .3 lbs for 10 gallons, which should be about 4 tablespoons or so for a 10 gallon medicine tank. Let me know if that sounds way off base. Thanks again!

 

[duanes]

Thank you! At a straight conversion, 3 lbs for 100 gallons would equal .3 lbs for 10 gallons, which should be about 4 tablespoons or so for a 10 gallon medicine tank. Let me know if that sounds way off base. Thanks again!

That sounds right, but treating just a hospital tank may not be treating the root of the problem.
If infected fish were in the main tank, then juvie parasites were shed into that tank, and it also needs to be treated, or the cycle begins over and over again.
The parasitic larvae are microscopic, so it must be assumed they are there.
I had to treat my 180 plus sump with the equivalent of @ 6 lbs of salt (replacing some with each water change) to keep that salinity for about a month to totally rid the system of the parasite.
I actually used 20 gallons of sea water initially, and replaced that portion with and equivalent amount with water changes (I live on an island, sea water is easier to get, than bags of salt).
The Lernae have not returned.