Curiosity questions, because I just don't know.

[Scrappy71113]

I'm not going to claim to know anything about my tanks. Most of my "knowledge" has been aquired through years of trial, error, and attempting to logic things out. I don't understand the "why" of how any of this works outside of bare minimum basics (cycling, water changes to reduce nitrates, and if food sits it rots and can cause a lot of issues).

What is the purpose of KH and GH?
Is it something that I need to monitor?
I have never tested for it and honestly don't know how it effects my water quality if at all.

Another thing, I'm a strong believer in algea being an indicator that something is off. There's ALWAYS going to be algea present in a healthy tank, but if it suddenly gets out of control, something usually isn't right. Am I correct in believing this?
I've heard that UV sterilizers are a good way to clean up "Mountain dew water", but I feel like this is just a cover up and does not address the underlying issue.
Is this a correct assumption?

Once again, Facebook has me questioning what I have been doing, and I don't want to be doing one of those "it works until it doesn't" kind of things.

On a side note, I'm honestly considering leaving a lot of the groups that I had joined. I mainly joined so I could get ideas for scaping my own tanks and see what kind of fish are out there, but now the FB know it alls have me all kinds of messed up. I love my little wiggly water babies and want to keep them around as long as possible, so I do my best, and just want to make sure I'm doing things right.

 

[duanes]

GH and KH represent the hardness (the mineral content) osmotic content of your tap water.
Some fish that have evolved to live in low mineral content, soft water (i.e. certain Amazonian species like wild angels, and Uaru fernandenzyepezii) and if placed in hard water tend to have health problems, some like these Uaru species have shortened lives.
Some fish that come from and have evolved to live high mineral content waters in Mexico, and Central America, end up unhealthy in low GH, low KH water.
The majority of common aquarium species are from neutral conditions, are not radically effected by these parameters if not drastic.

I have always lived in hard water areas, and found when I tried to keep soft water species, I was not as successful as when I tailored species I keep that have evolved to live in my type water.

I don't use UV, and don't worry about algae, so I have no reason to comment on that end.

 

[Scrappy71113]

GH and KH represent the hardness (the mineral content) osmotic content of your tap water.
Some fish that have evolved to live in low mineral content, soft water (i.e. certain Amazonian species like wild angels, and Uaru fernandenzyepezii) and if placed in hard water tend to have health problems, some like these Uaru species have shortened lives.
Some fish that come from and have evolved to live high mineral content waters in Mexico, and Central America, end up unhealthy in low GH, low KH water.
The majority of common aquarium species are from neutral conditions, are not radically effected by these parameters if not drastic.

I have always lived in hard water areas, and found when I tried to keep soft water species, I was not as successful as when I tailored species I keep that have evolved to live in my type water.

I don't use UV, and don't worry about algae, so I have no reason to comment on that end.

So basically, it's good to know what I have coming out of my tap, but otherwise, as long as I'm maintaining my tanks properly, I shouldn't really have to monitor kg and GH. Is this correct?

As far as algea goes, I've only dealt with algea blooms twice since keeping fish outside of my parents house. Once was because of poor mechanical filtration.
Got a second filter and it cleared right up.
Second time, I was out due to Surgery and when I finally got to my tanks, one of my goldfish had died and was rotting, and mountain dew water.

As a child, I would get massive hair algea growth that was always followed with "hey, your tank is growing algea, you need to clean it." I'd pick out the algea, vacuum the gravel, and do a huge water change, then it would be fine for a while.
This is where my belief that algea is an indicator comes from. Not much backing for my idea, but so far, as long as I keep my tanks maintained, it's not really an issue and like I said, only becomes an issue when something is wrong.

As far as uv sterilizers go, I'm reluctant to get them, because I feel like they are just sweeping the issue under the rug, so to speak.
If there's mountain dew water, or the fish are sick, why? Find the source of the problem and fix it, don't cover it up.

 

[FJB]

I would just say that there a few basic things to know (proper fish for the tap water one has), need to do sufficient water changes, feed them properly and not too much, and don’t mix incompatible species or put fish (or mixes of them) in too small spaces for their needs. I wouldn’t worry too much about what the know it alls say or their media domains. Lots of untruths out there and people wanting attention. I don’t have time for that and your own time is probably worth more too. We all learn more everyday but not from self proclaimed gurus.

 

[Scrappy71113]

I would just say that there a few basic things to know (proper fish for the tap water one has), need to do sufficient water changes, feed them properly and not too much, and don’t mix incompatible species or put fish (or mixes of them) in too small spaces for their needs. I wouldn’t worry too much about what the know it alls say or their media domains. Lots of untruths out there and people wanting attention. I don’t have time for that and your own time is probably worth more too. We all learn more everyday but not from self proclaimed gurus.

I understand where you're coming from, I just keep second guessing myself and just want to make sure I'm not wrong.

 

[Ogertron3000]

I understand where you're coming from, I just keep second guessing myself and just want to make sure I'm not wrong.

If you stick to the basics you will usually be fine. As has been mentioned get fish that are compatible with you tap water, keep them in a decent sized tank with a suitable filter. Don’t overcrowd the tank. Change water regularly and feed quality foods but not too much and you should do okay.
I find if you have lots of plants algae becomes less of an issue too.
You can go nuts with gadgets if you want, get an R.O unit, a UV steriliser and Co2 injector and hi tech LED lights but it’s not really necessary most of the time and can add a lot of stress to what’s meant to be a relaxing hobby.

 

[duanes]

So basically, it's good to know what I have coming out of my tap, but otherwise, as long as I'm maintaining my tanks properly, I shouldn't really have to monitor kg and GH. Is this correct?
As far as uv sterilizers go, I'm reluctant to get them, because I feel like they are just sweeping the issue under the rug, so to speak.
If there's mountain dew water, or the fish are sick, why? Find the source of the problem and fix it, don't cover it up.

UV will help stop epidemics, because it scrambles the chromosomes in pathogens that pass thru the unit, so those pathogens can't reproduce.
Although this only happens if the UV light is intense enough, and the contact time in front of the light is long enough.
UV will not stop disease acquired thru fish to fish contact, of diseases that harbor in the substate.
But to me, proper quarantine as prevention is the best route.

Knowing your tap water hardness, or lack thereof is the key,
and its easy enough to find out by calling your water supplier or looking at their water quality/chemical parameter web site

if you have hard water and want Rift Lake or central American cichlids, you are golden.
If you have hard water and want certain wild caught SouthAmerican soft water cichlids, and tetras, trying to keep them in it may be an exercise in futility, unless you want to invest in RO/DI units to remove minerals.
Although many will survive for a time in mineral rich water, they usually end up scarred with chronic HITH as adults, or in the case of cardinal tetras, shorten their already shot lives, especially if water changes are lax enough to allow nitrate to build up above 10ppm.

 

[esoxlucius]

Most of my "knowledge" has been aquired through years of trial, error, and attempting to logic things out.

In a lot of cases learning on the job as it were is the best way of gaining knowledge and understanding in this hobby.

Facebook has me questioning what I have been doing,

I think you already know that listening to every Tom, Dick and Harry on sites such as FB will not always put you on the right path. Stick to dedicated sites such as MFK if you seek proper advice.

 

[aussieman57]

UV will help stop epidemics, because it scrambles the chromosomes in pathogens that pass thru the unit, so those pathogens can't reproduce.
Although this only happens if the UV light is intense enough, and the contact time in front of the light is long enough.
UV will not stop disease acquired thru fish to fish contact, of diseases that harbor in the substate.
But to me, proper quarantine as prevention is the best route.

Do UV sterilizers impact/damage the organisms responsible for the nitrogen cycle in freshwater tanks? I always thought that it did not but I have a LFS owner here who is telling me UV sterilizers also kill/damage the good bacteria in a freshwater tank & advises against the use of UV in freshwater aquaria.

 

[esoxlucius]

Do UV sterilizers impact/damage the organisms responsible for the nitrogen cycle in freshwater tanks? I always thought that it did not but I have a LFS owner here who is telling me UV sterilizers also kill/damage the good bacteria in a freshwater tank & advises against the use of UV in freshwater aquaria.

My understanding is that BB are sessile (attach to surfaces), and not free flowing in the water column. Any that "dislodge" themselves will, as you say, be eradicated by the UV. But by and large BB in your filter, and on other surfaces, will be ok to carry on with their work unharmed.