Recommendations for overflow

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
When I used the CPR type overflows, I would use the venturi port of a powerhead to suck air out of the overflow chamber.
It helped a lot to ensure siphon kept steady
View attachment 1494501
When I google "aqua lifter" all I get is a tiny little vacuum pump with a flow rate of 3.5 gallons per hour.
I use the aqua lifters to keep air out of my PVC pipe and restart the siphon in the case of a power outage.
I live in tornado alley, and power outages are really common, and I needed these to restart the outflow in the case that I'm not home to do it. The pumps I have to pump water back into my tanks are waterfall pond pumps I picked up at Lowes that push about 800 GPH at tank hight.
But thank you for the concern. If I had someone tell me that they were running 3.5 GPH return pump on a 100 gallon system, I would be questioning their mental stability ?
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjohnwm
Over Head Filters work if you don't mind individual filters on each tank.

You could DIY another overflow design, multiple variations available, or use 2 or 3 per tank if you want to make sure. Or use clear pipe to easily monitor for air bubbles. Even silicon hose with a stiff wire inside will keep a U bend.

Or pull off one end of the tank and replace with float glass that's easily drilled.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Scrappy71113
I had a system setup like this years ago.
I did a version of what duanes is talking about.
I made a Venturi type rig on the intake of the main return.
Say the power goes off, When it came on the return pump starts to return water and simultaneously starts to suck the air out of the overflow starting the siphon back.

The reason I did it this way was in case a power head failed to start back.
By using the return I was covered either way.

All my tanks on sumps are drilled or overhead now.
 
You're living with the consequences of "going cheap" right now, and you don't like it. But .... you're looking for a "cheap" fix to the problem because you don't want to pay for acrylic overflow boxes (too expensive). And you can't drill your tanks because they're the "cheap/petco" tanks .

I think you should consider a new approach.

You're gonna have to spend more money on at LEAST ONE facet of your design if you want to get a different result than you're getting right now -- which is flooding the carpet.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Backfromthedead
You're living with the consequences of "going cheap" right now, and you don't like it. But .... you're looking for a "cheap" fix to the problem because you don't want to pay for acrylic overflow boxes (too expensive). And you can't drill your tanks because they're the "cheap/petco" tanks .

I think you should consider a new approach.

You're gonna have to spend more money on at LEAST ONE facet of your design if you want to get a different result than you're getting right now -- which is flooding the carpet.

I know what you're saying, and I know I need some serious upgrades. It's something that I'm saving for. It's going to take time though, and I just need a cheap fix until I can get those upgrades.
I'm kicking myself in the butt for doing it the way that I did. With the money I spent on the tools and supplies I needed to build my current set ups, I could have just bought the quality stuff in the first place.
That being said, this was literally the first time I built something on my own, and I dedicated my free time and pocket change over the span of 2 years getting it set up. Despite the fact that I regret it, I'm still very proud of it, I learned quite a bit, and it was a load of fun. I wouldn't trade the experience for the world.
I'm a really strong believer in "I work way too hard for my money to not get what I want" and so normally I don't settle. The only reason I settled was because I had no idea how drilled tanks worked or how sumps worked, or how they worked together, so I didn't know that that was what I wanted. Now that I have that understanding, I won't be doing what I did again.
 
Check out Aqualink adp I have 2011 overflow well made and only 76 bucks with upgrades shipped
I'll check it out. I think I'm going to try the different methods on different tanks, and see which one I like the most.
 
I had a system setup like this years ago.
I did a version of what duanes is talking about.
I made a Venturi type rig on the intake of the main return.
Say the power goes off, When it came on the return pump starts to return water and simultaneously starts to suck the air out of the overflow starting the siphon back.

The reason I did it this way was in case a power head failed to start back.
By using the return I was covered either way.

All my tanks on sumps are drilled or overhead now.

Can you show the design or how you did this. I think i need to do this on my system.
 
Can you show the design or how you did this. I think i need to do this on my system.
All I did was drill a small hole in the top of the overflow at the highest point.
Glue in a 1 inch long 1/4 inch hard airline tube, to connect some airline.
Run the line to the intake of the return pump in the sump.
On the return pump I connected a pvc fitting to the suction side of the pump drilled a small hole in this for another 1/4 inch hard tube with one end cut to a 45 angle(This is to help create the suction) and positioned the angle end inside so that the pump causes a suction on the tube and glued it in place. (This took a little time getting it just right before glue)I connected the end of the air line from the overflow. The opening on the 45 angle piece worked best with the opening facing the pump, this creates the most suction.
When any air gets into the overflow lift tube the return pump will suck it out and blow the bubbles out through the return in the display.
 
All I did was drill a small hole in the top of the overflow at the highest point.
Glue in a 1 inch long 1/4 inch hard airline tube, to connect some airline.
Run the line to the intake of the return pump in the sump.
On the return pump I connected a pvc fitting to the suction side of the pump drilled a small hole in this for another 1/4 inch hard tube with one end cut to a 45 angle(This is to help create the suction) and positioned the angle end inside so that the pump causes a suction on the tube and glued it in place. (This took a little time getting it just right before glue)I connected the end of the air line from the overflow. The opening on the 45 angle piece worked best with the opening facing the pump, this creates the most suction.
When any air gets into the overflow lift tube the return pump will suck it out and blow the bubbles out through the return in the display.

Thank you very much for you quick response.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BIG-G
MonsterFishKeepers.com