Is this rinsing my filters too much?

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IMHO, canisters are the devil.

You have a small, limited space for all your media...and then it's a PITA to access that little bit of media to boot. Inevitably it doesn't get cleaned as often as I feel a filter should...and if by some miracle you do clean it that often, you end up wearing out or breaking some tiny expensive back-ordered part by constantly flexing/snapping/twisting/etc.

And, of course, with so little media in a canister it's only natural to worry about killing any of the beneficial bacteria, not only in the biomedia but also on the mechanical media as well. Like Esox and duanes said, a sump gives you so much room for biomedia that you can clean the mech stuff as often as you want, leaving the biomedia untouched and undisturbed and knowing that your bacterial population remains practically the same.

When I am home I remove and thoroughly rinse the initial layer of mechanical media (a relatively small sheet of foam) in my sumps literally every day. My well water is of course non-chlorinated, but I've done the same thing when dealing with chlorinated municipal water without issue. Removing as much solid organic waste matter as possible and doing it this often prevents much of it from ever undergoing bacterial decomposition into ammonia/nitrite/nitrate and keeps my water that much cleaner because of it. It takes mere minutes to do, and pays big dividends. And, when I am away from home for work for three weeks at a time, sometimes for many months, this initial foam layer can go that long without cleaning...although of course the nitrate production will be increased for that period.

I also use a lot of sponge/Matten filters in smaller tanks, and tend to use much larger sponges than are typically seen in many aquariums. This, of course, is much more difficult, sloppy and inconvenient to clean in the manner described above, so I content myself with simply vacuuming the outer surface of the sponge periodically, and then once in a great while removing the dang thing and giving it a thorough rinse/squeeze/repeat until the water comes off mostly clean. Even though done in tank or non-chlorinated water, this must remove a good percentage of bacteria, but I have never had any problems as the remaining population is sufficient and re-establishes the required number of bacteria very quickly. But no matter how you slice it, a sponge or Matten is the quintessential form of the type of "nitrate factory" described by duanes. It is, IMHO, their one failing.

Sorry for going on too long. TLDR version: clean biomedia as little as possible (I don't touch mine, sometimes for years!). Clean mechanical media as much as possible (every day for me). And for heaven's sake, don't replace anything! Of course the instructions tell you to; they want you to keep buying their overpriced stuff! Use a quality, durable foam like Poret for your mech media; a piece will last for many years and many hundreds or thousands of vigorous rinses and squeezes, will filter as well as or better than any disposable product, and will (despite being expensive initially) save you a fortune when amortized over its lifespan.
 
The OP mentioned cartridges I assumed it was a HOB filter.
Good point. :-)

IMHO, canisters are the devil.
:-) My opinion of sumps, lol. But I get it and for me there's room for more than one philosophy. For years I was big on fluidized bed sand 'filters' for bio, got away from them for no real, particular reason, but I liked the concept.
 
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The OP mentioned cartridges I assumed it was a HOB filter.

Oops! Maybe so...I saw Esox mentioned canisters and assumed that was the case. That guy is always screwing me up somehow...:nilly::grinno::grinyes: :)

A HOB is also a small volume of media, but at least it's very easy to clean. I'd still buy or cobble together a foam replacement for the ridiculous disposable trash the maker tries to push on you. And I'd still rinse/squeeze out that initial mech layer as often as possible, without disturbing the bio layer.

My all-time favourite HOB's back when I used them were the Aquaclear 500's, which are pretty much identical to the Fluval 110 series today? The mech layer was/is under the bio layer, so removing it is slightly more troublesome and messy. If that's the case, the next best thing would be a foam pre-filter fitted to the filter intake, inside the tank. Still slightly more work than a well-designed sump.
 
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Lol, this thread sure filled up!

Tlindsey is right, I don't use canisters. Just hang-on-back.
Tbh, I didn't even fully grasp what a canister filter was until a short time before I did the search and saw what duanes said. I am so grateful I don't have one.
I also agree with duanes that any NO3 over 5 ppm is a real problem.

Yes, I do use the Aquaclears. Most of the media is chemical and does have to be replaced eventually, but the Poret tip by jjohnwm jjohnwm is excellent. Thank you so much for it, I can really save quite a lot!
Aquaclear keeps insisting to replace their sponges. A piece of Poret foam can definitely eliminate that, regardless of initial cost.

My other filter, with the cartridges, is an Aqueon. These do have to be replaced because they have activated carbon, but perhaps there's something I'm missing that could allow me to not have to waste money and replace them?

Anyway, I very much appreciate the advice from all. Ultimately, every day certainly isn't undoable for my mechanical media and does make a lot of sense (like JJ said, the gunk is removed before it pollutes the tank), so I think I'll get to cleaning it on a daily basis along with the rest of the improvements (like not replacing things that don't need to be).
 
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How about adding aI big ol' sponge filter for bio? And then you can stuff your HOBs with whatever you like, and wash them more or less however you like ? I tend to use the front cart slot with a cart (that I don't change) and then wedge sponge behind it, still have room to fit some purigen in there, which wouldn't be a bad idea...
 
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I've done different filtration schemes, starting in the 1960s, and I've had all of them work, so I don't buy the notion of a nirvana filtration scheme, one is the best and everything else stinks, or that this or that is a "nitrate factory." Some of it just comes down to preference (or budget), aesthetics, and the maintenance routine you have or prefer.

I currently use canisters, primarily, sometimes in combo with a Seachem Tidal. Low nitrates, 5-ish, and no I don't clean them out constantly. It actually varies from tank to tank and depends on the tank, fish in the tank-- numbers and types, and filter(s) on the tank. I go both by eye test and water quality. Shortest cycle tank gets filter rinsed about every 6 weeks (for canisters, the Tidal might be more often, depending on its setup and purpose for a tank), others less often. Works for me, will vary for others according to tank, fish, filters, tap water, etc.

Every set up is different, including how you set your filters up, so there's not a one-size-fits-all rule for everyone, including nitrate levels. 5 is great and for some species it makes a difference, but as much as some may criticize this, t's well proven in the hobby for many years that most fish are just fine with 20-40, so I wouldn't obsess over getting there. As important, probably more so, is non-beneficial bacteria load, which can be complex, affected by multiple factors, and not something you can directly test for. Also water mineral balance, other environmental or behavioral stress factors, etc. A lot goes into fish health, it's not all down to a single number, like nitrates.

Of course, everyone has their own philosophy and reasoning, what works for them in terms of efficiency, success, etc. I've fine tuned this for myself over the years, still occasionally tweak something a little, typically in the interest of efficiency-- less work, not more. I don't operate according to someone else's opinions, what I do works for me and I typically have long lived fish, some a good bit longer than their supposed life expectancy (severums that live 17-18 years, etc.) and very rarely have a sick one.

No harm in trying what others do or say, I certainly have, but I say eventually you should come to your own methods and conclusions.

This write up by neutrino neutrino is one of the best posts I've ever read on MFK. :clap

We are all here to help each other, to learn from each other, to inspire each other, but at the end of the day, each of our systems are unique to each of us and you've got to decide, often through trial and error, what methods are best for you, your system and what you are trying to achieve.
 
As long as you're going to go with high-quality foam and saving some money...why not take the next step?

Here comes the heresy: regardless of what the filter manufacturer tells you, you do not need to constantly buy expensive cartridges and you do not need to use activated carbon. It sounds like you are committed to a solid waterchange schedule, so a chemical media that adsorbs wastes is unnecessary. I keep a sealed can of activated carbon on hand, just in case of some oddball emergency...but it has been sitting unused on the shelf since I moved into this house over a decade ago, and it was already old then. Water changes remove everything...nitrates, tannins, medications, dyes, bad smells, good smells, questionable smells... doesn't matter, all the stuff that carbon does for you at considerable expense and for only a short time, regular water changes do just as well. The solution to pollution is dilution...i.e. water changes.

I'm not familiar with the cartridges that the Aqueon uses, but I've never seen a proprietary cartridge yet that could not be modified to accept foam, or simply replaced altogether with a carefully-cut piece of foam. Go to the Swiss Tropicals website and you will find that Poret is available in a large assortment of pore densities, sheet sizes and various thicknesses. I'd bet folding money that a little ingenuity will allow you to make it work, and work well. If it were my filter, I would fill it strictly with Poret foam...no cartridges, no carbon, no other chemical or biological media. Don't use a solid block; get a sheet of thinner foam, and layer a few sheets so that the first sheet (the "mechanical" sheet) can be regularly and frequently removed for cleaning, leaving the other sheet(s) (the "biological" sheets) undisturbed. You could also use a coarser foam for the first sheet, and a finer, smaller-pored version for the successive sheets.

I hate to sound cheap...mainly because I am so cheap...but when something saves you money while at the same time performing the required function as well as or better than the commercial version...what's not to like?
 
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Haha, your cheapness stems from some real intuition! I encourage to change your username to John Einstein?

That does it! I won't be scammed by filtration companies any more.
Sheets of Poret foam it will be, with the mentioned varying thickness and coarseness to allow a thinner, mechanical strip to regularly be cleaned while some thicker, biological strips can be undisturbed.
No more running to the pet store in panic because I ran out of media! Just a nice, easy, money-saving rinse of the Poret:woot:
 
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