What's the Key to Plantless Aquascaping?

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spitz006

Piranha
MFK Member
Dec 25, 2010
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Allegan, MI
I want to set up my 90 gallon as a south american tank with tetras, peaceful cichlids (maybe discus?), and corydoras. But I hate messing with live plants. And fake plants, even at their best, are tacky.

I see some tanks with just a single piece of driftwood in the center. But there seems to be something you need to do with the lighting, or with the background, or with something, to make it look good.

What's the secret here? Anyone have pics of their tanks without plants?
 
All of the above. Dark background, natural substrate (I prefer sand), lighting not overly bright, and the right piece of driftwood, especially if you're going for a single piece. Lighting is its own complete topic. Some lights make fish and tank look better than others. It's not just the advertised color "temperature" but specific peaks in the spectrum of a particular light or bulb. By virtue of spectrum, some lights muddy up your tank, while others clarify the appearance, enhance colors, etc, almost like HD. Some look more artificial, overly exaggerate blues, etc. I tried an Aqqa light on a geo tank and never liked it, no adjustment looked quite right. Got a basic model Hygger and it looks much better, more natural. Moved the Aqqa to a Cyphotilapia tank with rocks and dark blue background, turned off the reds, and it looks better there, like deepwater. Adjustable brightness is nice to tweak for the look you want and I like the look of a light smaller than the tank, so the ends are more dim than the center.

Of course, some of it's personal taste. Usually takes me some tinkering over time to like one of my tanks, even if I know the look I'm going for. I don't take many pics of my tanks, I've done driftwood only but don't have photos. Lots of them out there, though, besides youtube videos, etc. You can also get inspiration from wild, underwater youtube, videos.

Probably more natural for discus in a smaller tank setting would be branches or a branchy piece than a single massive hunk of wood, unless it was something they could swim under and around, maybe. It's not that they never encounter logs, etc. but they spend time in flooded forest and, like other disc shaped fish (angels, Heros, Mesonauta), one reason for their shape is it allows them to maneuver around branches, stay out of the way of larger predators, etc.
 
One thing that is rarely mentioned is the effects of a point-source light versus light that emanates over a larger area. If you set up a tank with a full-length hood, using fluorescent lamps especially, you get an even, flat illumination that looks totally lifeless. I'm not referring to light colour or temperature here; a daylight-spectrum lamp provides a more natural look than a cool white, for example, but in both cases the lighting is completely flat.

Contrast this to the wonderful dappled effect that can be achieved with a single point source of light, such as a single LED fixture, combined with some surface disturbance created by HOB overflows, airstones, pump returns aimed at the surface, etc. You must experiment to get this effect dialed in...any changes in the light source, the angle of the light, distance from the water surface, and type or degree of surface agitation can drastically affect the look of the tank. Once you achieve that dancing, sparkling effect of light bending and refracting at the surface and then shining onto the substrate, decor and fish...it will blow you away. The dramatic look is increased also by the intermingling of bright areas with darker shaded areas at the back and sides.

Some of the LED fixtures sold for planted tank or reef tank use, and which facilitate this look, are very expensive if you aren't actually planning to grow plants. I have a couple of tanks illuminated by LED work lights, mounted in DIY brackets, plugged into GFCI outlets for safety. These things work great, are very durable and very inexpensive. If this is a display tank as opposed to a fishroom tank, you would need to address their homely appearance; maybe mount into some sort of hood, under a shelf unit or something along those lines.

As an aside, they actually work quite well to grow simple plants like most floaters, Anubis, etc.
 
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Something with height. A large flat piece with no height will still make the tank feel empty especially if you have a taller tank. A branching piece will give a fuller effect without taking up a huge amount of space.
 
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One thing that is rarely mentioned is the effects of a point-source light versus light that emanates over a larger area. If you set up a tank with a full-length hood, using fluorescent lamps especially, you get an even, flat illumination that looks totally lifeless. I'm not referring to light colour or temperature here; a daylight-spectrum lamp provides a more natural look than a cool white, for example, but in both cases the lighting is completely flat.

Contrast this to the wonderful dappled effect that can be achieved with a single point source of light, such as a single LED fixture, combined with some surface disturbance created by HOB overflows, airstones, pump returns aimed at the surface, etc. You must experiment to get this effect dialed in...any changes in the light source, the angle of the light, distance from the water surface, and type or degree of surface agitation can drastically affect the look of the tank. Once you achieve that dancing, sparkling effect of light bending and refracting at the surface and then shining onto the substrate, decor and fish...it will blow you away. The dramatic look is increased also by the intermingling of bright areas with darker shaded areas at the back and sides.

Some of the LED fixtures sold for planted tank or reef tank use, and which facilitate this look, are very expensive if you aren't actually planning to grow plants. I have a couple of tanks illuminated by LED work lights, mounted in DIY brackets, plugged into GFCI outlets for safety. These things work great, are very durable and very inexpensive. If this is a display tank as opposed to a fishroom tank, you would need to address their homely appearance; maybe mount into some sort of hood, under a shelf unit or something along those lines.

As an aside, they actually work quite well to grow simple plants like most floaters, Anubis, etc.

This is extremely appreciated. So I’ve thought about getting a kessil, but you’re saying I can achieve the same effect with one of those work lights. It’s a basement fish room so I can totally get as hillbilly as I want. I might just get one of those tripod stands. I have room behind the tank to hide it.

thanks. Im excited for this.
 
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I like to use just driftwood and rocks in my scaping for the most part. In this tank I position the light strip across the back of the tank so all the scaping is sort of silhouetted against the light.
20220815_061908.jpg
 
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...So I’ve thought about getting a kessil, but you’re saying I can achieve the same effect with one of those work lights. It’s a basement fish room so I can totally get as hillbilly as I want...

Lol, well, I certainly didn't mean to imply that a cheap-ass portable worklight is going to give you all the benefits of a high-zoot top-of-the-line commercial aquarium light. A worklight is not going to allow you to adjust the colour, will not be programmable at all, etc. You need to turn it on and off manually, or with an external timer. If you decide while on vacation in Aruba that you absolutely must use your cellphone to contact your aquarium light and adjust the red balance or create a lightning-storm effect in your tank...you are going to be disappointed...:)

But it will produce that single-point-source effect of dappled light which is so attractive. I would never use the ridiculous bulky flimsy tripod stands for it, rather bolt it securely to a firmly anchored DIY bracket of some sort. GFCI protection is a must. And you should be careful to purchase only an LED version; there are still numbers of obsolete worklights sold very cheaply that utilize old technology halogen or other caveman light "bulbs". They use a profligate amount of energy, generate more heat than a laser beam and burn out if exposed to harsh language. Total waste of money.

Backfromthedead Backfromthedead , I like that minimalist scape...I like the natural algae background...but...what's with that awful chunk of plastic plant? :)
 
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Something often overlooked that will really add to your tank is providing lots of smaller visual interest. This can be accomplished through botanicals, seed pods, gravel, and twigs. It will complete the look you're going for.
 
But it will produce that single-point-source effect of dappled light which is so attractive.


Regarding pointing jets upward for the water breaking effect, how do you deal with the inevitable water stains and algae on the top glass then?
 
Regarding pointing jets upward for the water breaking effect, how do you deal with the inevitable water stains and algae on the top glass then?

You clean the glass. :)

Honestly, the surface action that produces the type of look I like doesn't really create much splashing...more a wave action. A return nozzle right at the surface and oriented horizontally keeps things pretty clean and creates some nice light/shadow patterns. You must experiment to get the look you want.
 
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