Ceramic biomedia?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
By the way, the biological filter in the water plant above was backwashed at minimum every 4 days, (sooner if it became clogged) to prevent the media from going anoxic, or if bacteriological colonies showed sighs of varying into anoxic or deleterious species.
One backwash used @ 55,000 gallons of treated water.
And as jjohnwm said, if you don't regularly rinse and purge sludge from your biomedia in any filter, to keep it aerobic its usefulness will be compromised no matter what type media is used.
 
Not too sure about weight, it’s more about surface area. Keep in mind rays produce massive amounts of ammonia compared to other fish and are more susceptible to ammonia poisoning. This is why most ray keepers tend to go overkill on filtration, such as myself.
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Rays typically need a sump the size of 1/3 the aquarium volume. So for example your 300 gallon aquarium would need a 100 gallon sump completely filled with bio media and some form of mechanical filtration. This is the reality if you would like the rays to thrive. Be prepared for them to outgrow that 300 gallon, cheers!
 
Not too sure about weight, it’s more about surface area. Keep in mind rays produce massive amounts of ammonia compared to other fish and are more susceptible to ammonia poisoning. This is why most ray keepers tend to go overkill on filtration, such as myself.
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Rays typically need a sump the size of 1/3 the aquarium volume. So for example your 300 gallon aquarium would need a 100 gallon sump completely filled with bio media and some form of mechanical filtration. This is the reality if you would like the rays to thrive. Be prepared for them to outgrow that 300 gallon, cheers!

It's not more about surface area; rather, it's all about surface area. My comment regarding weight was simply meant to point out that with a large enough volume of biomedium, you might as well find a medium that gives you the surface area without weighing hundreds of pounds, to make handling and cleaning easier. Since just about any decent biomedium will give you more than the surface area you need, things like weight, cost, etc. are really the deciding factors for me.

I don't know anything about rays, but it's too simplistic to say that for rays (or any other species) you need this size of sump or that volume of biomedia to be successful. That does not take into account the total bioload of the aquarium; rays may well produce more ammonia per pound than many other fish, but the number and size of fish in the tank is still a critical factor. Let's say a ray produces three times the ammonia, per pound of body weight, that is churned out by an arowana, for example. Don't know if that's true, I'm just making up an example. If the total biomass of rays in Tank A is only one third of the biomass of arowanas in Tank B, then those two tanks would both be properly biofiltered by an identical bacterial population...and that population will be the same whether the biomedia fills a 100-gallon sump or any other size. Enough surface area is enough; more is not better or worse, but it is unnecessary.

Maybe if you want a crowded tank...and that's a "loaded" term that means something different to each aquarist...then you really do need 100 gallons of biomedia...but just saying that rays need that much doesn't really answer any questions, and begs many others like "how many rays?", "how big are they?" and "how much are they fed?"

A friend of mine in Ontario was into goldfish in a big way, and kept most of them outdoors during the summer and indoors during the winter. His overwintering stock tanks in his basement were CROWDED (by my standards) with big fish, often 15-20 fish in the 10-12 inch size range per 300 gallon tank. The fish were maintained at around 65F for the winter months, were fed generously, and received a 100% water change about every 3 or 4 days (continuous drip). They always looked fantastic, the water was tested before each water change and although nitrates often exceeded 30ppm before a change, ammonia was never detectable. Those 300-gallon tanks were each filtered with two large foam filters, powered by two central air systems in parallel as a failsafe. The foam filters looked identical to the largest size Poret foam cartridge available today, which is 19 inches tall and 6x6 inches wide and deep. One alternating filter was removed and squeezed/rinsed every three or four days, so each filter was cleaned weekly.

Those tanks were usually completely clear, and were always completely ammonia-free, using a pair of sponge filters with a total volume of less than 1 cubic foot of foam, i.e. less than 7.5 gallons of biomedia by volume. Gee, I wonder what the water would have been like with 100 gallons of biomedium?

Surprise! That's a trick question; the water would have been exactly the same. Zero ammonia is zero ammonia.
 
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It's not more about surface area; rather, it's all about surface area. My comment regarding weight was simply meant to point out that with a large enough volume of biomedium, you might as well find a medium that gives you the surface area without weighing hundreds of pounds, to make handling and cleaning easier. Since just about any decent biomedium will give you more than the surface area you need, things like weight, cost, etc. are really the deciding factors for me.

I don't know anything about rays, but it's too simplistic to say that for rays (or any other species) you need this size of sump or that volume of biomedia to be successful. That does not take into account the total bioload of the aquarium; rays may well produce more ammonia per pound than many other fish, but the number and size of fish in the tank is still a critical factor. Let's say a ray produces three times the ammonia, per pound of body weight, that is churned out by an arowana, for example. Don't know if that's true, I'm just making up an example. If the total biomass of rays in Tank A is only one third of the biomass of arowanas in Tank B, then those two tanks would both be properly biofiltered by an identical bacterial population...and that population will be the same whether the biomedia fills a 100-gallon sump or any other size. Enough surface area is enough; more is not better or worse, but it is unnecessary.

Maybe if you want a crowded tank...and that's a "loaded" term that means something different to each aquarist...then you really do need 100 gallons of biomedia...but just saying that rays need that much doesn't really answer any questions, and begs many others like "how many rays?", "how big are they?" and "how much are they fed?"

A friend of mine in Ontario was into goldfish in a big way, and kept most of them outdoors during the summer and indoors during the winter. His overwintering stock tanks in his basement were CROWDED (by my standards) with big fish, often 15-20 fish in the 10-12 inch size range per 300 gallon tank. The fish were maintained at around 65F for the winter months, were fed generously, and received a 100% water change about every 3 or 4 days (continuous drip). They always looked fantastic, the water was tested before each water change and although nitrates often exceeded 30ppm before a change, ammonia was never detectable. Those 300-gallon tanks were each filtered with two large foam filters, powered by two central air systems in parallel as a failsafe. The foam filters looked identical to the largest size Poret foam cartridge available today, which is 19 inches tall and 6x6 inches wide and deep. One alternating filter was removed and squeezed/rinsed every three or four days, so each filter was cleaned weekly.

Those tanks were usually completely clear, and were always completely ammonia-free, using a pair of sponge filters with a total volume of less than 1 cubic foot of foam, i.e. less than 7.5 gallons of biomedia by volume. Gee, I wonder what the water would have been like with 100 gallons of biomedium?

Surprise! That's a trick question; the water would have been exactly the same. Zero ammonia is zero ammonia.

It’s all about surface area is what I meant.. I was just trying to simplify things for you, obviously size, weight, body fat %, water change % etc. etc. are all factors. It’s better to have more filtration and let the bacteria colonize as the rays grow. Rays grow fast under pristine conditions 1 inch per month if they’re not growing that fast then something is wrong. The bioload is going to constantly increase and you’re talking about 3-4 rays. By the time those 3-4 rays outgrow that 300 gallon tank and get put in a bigger one they will most likely need more then 100 gallons of media at that point to get them to full adult size. Why risk not putting enough bio media in the first place and constantly monitoring to see if you need to add more and risk having the tank crash overnight?
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If you’re looking for lighter media that doesn’t weigh a lot, I’d recommend k1 or k3 (moving bed bio reactor). Many successful ray keepers use k1 or k3 in a moving bed, due to ease of maintenance..the media constantly knocking into each other, making old less efficient bacteria fall off and new bacteria with better efficiency will colonize. In a properly setup k1 or k3 reactor it should never need cleaned. Some types of medias don’t work well with rays and become nitrate factories overtime. The typical setup for most ray keepers is a k1 or k3 reactor with filter socks for mechanical (the cheapest). If you can afford it a lot of ray keepers use an Ultima II Filter (instead of filter socks) for mechanical, followed by a k1 or k3 reactor. I personally use a GcTek AlphaNANO filter instead of an Ultima II (the Ultima is economical where as the GcTek is professional), I use this followed by a k3 reactor.
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If you want to get more complicated, 7.5 gallons (1 cu.ft.) of k1 media will handle roughly 1/4lb of food per day (not factoring in body weight % ratio). So if your rays are well fed this number will be less amount per day, especially because this number is based off of normal fish, not rays that produce a lot more ammonia and are more susceptible. So in reality when it comes to rays this number is more like 1/12-1/8lb per day per 7.5 gallons of k1.
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Example in one of my systems I had 5 sub adult rays (2m, 3f) in a 800 gallon system. They ranged from 14”-22” so not fully grown yet and they were easily eating more then 1lb of food per day. If you use the above numbers for k1 they would of needed at least 60-90 gallons of k1 to handle that much food per day.
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Here’s some pictures of the 800 gallon system for reference. GcTek AlphaNANO 6.0 followed by 160w UV followed by a 275 gallon ibc tote filled with K3 media.

A6D575F1-2C2B-4623-82CE-48FABAA5D762.jpeg

C7E275DA-5A8A-416F-8654-03C528E9A2CA.jpeg

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Lol, I'm not looking for anything; I'm not the OP here. I find it interesting that someone with an elaborate, high-tech system like yourself...as well as a casual low-budget DIY cobbler like me...both respond to a thread asking about ceramic media...and neither of us seem to use it or care for it. :)
 
It's not just about surface area or having sufficient biomedia, the TYPE of filtration becomes important for large carnivorous fish like rays. When you add a new fish (circa 15kg) or feed 5kg of food at a time, you will get sudden spikes in ammonia so you need agile filtration - something that ramps up quickly as needed or recovers rapidly after any setbacks. Fluidised, wet-dry or moving bed filtration are three different methods that would be more suitable. Whatever media you put into these is up to you.
 
It's not just about surface area or having sufficient biomedia, the TYPE of filtration becomes important for large carnivorous fish like rays. When you add a new fish (circa 15kg) or feed 5kg of food at a time, you will get sudden spikes in ammonia so you need agile filtration - something that ramps up quickly as needed or recovers rapidly after any setbacks. Fluidised, wet-dry or moving bed filtration are three different methods that would be more suitable. Whatever media you put into these is up to you.

Agree with above this is why I said “Some types of medias don’t work well with rays and become nitrate factories overtime.” And why I recommended a k1 or k3 moving bed bio reactor
 
Sidetrack off the main topic for Stingray Biogenetics.

Since your 275 gallon tote is elevated, I suggest you install a 6mm constantly draining line back to tank or other section of your system. When running, the slow drain will not affect pump performance or ststem flow rates. But if/when the electricity stops especially when you are away, the tote will slowly self drain dependably. The K3 will stay moist (and oxygenated) for a week without water.

I use this method on top of back up power solutions and power outage alerts.
 
Sidetrack off the main topic for Stingray Biogenetics.

Since your 275 gallon tote is elevated, I suggest you install a 6mm constantly draining line back to tank or other section of your system. When running, the slow drain will not affect pump performance or ststem flow rates. But if/when the electricity stops especially when you are away, the tote will slowly self drain dependably. The K3 will stay moist (and oxygenated) for a week without water.

I use this method on top of back up power solutions and power outage alerts.

Thank you for the suggestion, I had never thought about that, that’s actually a good idea especially if you’re far from home with no one there! In my particular situation I’m here all the time and if I do leave I’m not far away, I’m lucky enough to have someone here if I was gone really really far (very rare). I have a Level Sense Pro-Wifi that instantly alerts my phone when the power goes out, if the water pump stops, water level drops, water leak etc. The Level Sense controller also beeps/alarms loud enough to be able to wake me up in the middle of the night lol… so chances are I’d be able to restore power every time before the ibc tote completely drains or bacteria dies. In my circumstances it wouldn’t be necessary for me but for someone else’s situation it could be a life saver!
 
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