Hikari pellets

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Lol, yes for sure, the large inclusion rate of water would definitely help in reducing the risk of over feeding.
Dry foods were created out of consumer convenience, same as dog, cat, etc foods. The vast majority of consumers don’t want to mess with making gel food, anymore than than feeding fresh/frozen daily. Myself included. And of course there are also folks such as Victor thebiggerthebetter thebiggerthebetter that would spend most of his day just preparing and handing out the food to the numerous hungry mouths that he has to feed. My tanks and fish would be very doable, but past experience has taught me that it still gets messy.

For those that want to soften their dry food, or add additional moisture content to increase palatability, pre-soaking for a few minutes will typically get the job done. It can get messy as well, but can be a great training tool for stubborn fish, especially if the pellets are pre-soaked in the juice of frozen blood worms.
 
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One thing that appears to work against the more nutrient dense feeds, is their hardness. IME this is the #1 con of NLS, and always has been.

This is exactly the issue I’m having with some of my fish and Northfin and NLS. Many of my fish spit them out the second they put it into their mouths and I’ve always wondered if it was the hardness of the pellets compared to Hikari. For whatever reason, none of them spit out Hikari foods so I keep a bag of it around for finicky or newly acquired fish. But in many cases, once they’re on Hikari, I can’t seem to break them onto the harder foods.
 
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Has anyone had any experience with Vibra bites for training fish to get on dried food? Aquarium coop Cory has mentioned that product as being more readily accepted bc of it's worn like shape.

Obviously he sells the stuff but it seems plausible. Many of us probably won't like the ingredients but getting a fish first started on dry foods with Vibra bites vs only eating frozen or live foods does seem like a good step if it works.
 
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Food sticks, pre-soak, also have a worm shape - and feel worm like if pre-soaked. I’m about to try some new sticks out on my adult Amph as soon as they arrive.
 
When RD mentioned his amph I immediately thought of my Oscar Brick. Sir Gourmet will eat certain foods and usually in the same area of the tank. I just go with what he'll eat currently and supplement as necessary with nutrient powder. He went on a mealworm only kick for 6 months, so I let the strategy be 'eat till you're sick of it'. That worked. He ate jumbo nightcrawlers for a month then stopped. For a fish literally raised on pellets once he passed 1 year of age he refused. He couldn't be trained to eat them anymore, nothing worked. He'll watch me while they fall over his head, though. ONE pellet trick works but I have to completely smush them and mix them into other foods. If I don't the second he tastes whole pellets he sifts them out.

So now blackworm cubes with spirulina/spinach and vitamins are his choice food. He also eats shrimp/krill/ when I cut back on the cubes. I tried an experiment where I fed him a dry cube. Texture didn't appeal to him so I soaked it as usual and he gulped it down. So yeah, texture affects palatability.

My parrots generally attack red/brown pellets first. Only Tango prefers the green pellets but will eat red ones second. Patch always preferred brown pellets first. Taste or color? I was never sure. None of them are picky, but they have preferences. My other fish will eat anything.

None of my fish will eat Northfin but gobble Hikari and Aquatic Foods. They're so-so on Ocean Free. They don't like the sticks either. My Synos eat pellets but no wafers. Since I'm not running a restaurant they eat what they get, and that includes Mr. Gourmet.
 
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My NF floating food sticks arrived today. Big hit, even my big male Amph took to them straight away, which is not always the case. I presoaked off to the side just to see how quickly they soften up, and they soften up fairly quickly, as most floating foods do. Another good alternative for those fish that will feed at the surface, and prefer softer food. At 3mm in diameter, and long in form, best for fish over 7” I would say, or break them in half. HTH someone looking for a softer food, but doesn’t want to feed corn. Lol
 
I remember the Wardleys cichlid pellets like it was yesterday! The 10kg buckets had a red saum rivulatus on the label. Although not a great food by today's standards, I ran a 200+ tank fish room back then using wardleys without issue. Those buckets had great lids and make excellent stackable storage containers. I'm still using about 30 buckets for long term storage.

I suspect the same principle applies today. Aquaculture food ($3 per kilo) is functionally adequate. Easily supplemented once a week with something better if one worried about nutritional deficets. I'm all for cheap fillers if the production price savings are passed on. A food brand that's twice the price of something else would need to be twice as good (or have twice the benefit) to justify the shift but I average 15kg per week of dry food on average. (Much larger fish rooms now).
 
I suspect the same principle applies today. Aquaculture food ($3 per kilo) is functionally adequate.

Agreed. Having said that, the vast majority of consumers keep fish as pets, more like a dog, or cat, or bird, or whatever. They don't run massive aquaculture facilities where 50 pound bags of food are emptied on a weekly basis. So while cost is always an issue for the average consumer, many consumers still want the best bang for their buck. Others just buy whatever has the prettiest label, or displays their favorite species of fish, or whatever is cheapest on the shelf.

In a closed system, an increase of fillers = an increase of waste. Metabolic waste that is invisible to the naked eye, and solid waste, that ends up in ones filtration system. Personally, I do my best to avoid both of those scenarios, and I'm ok with spending more money to achieve that end goal. And the added benefit, as it is with most premium brands of pet food, the consumer can feed less, while providing superior nutrition. Overall consumers are a lot more savvy regarding pet nutrition, than they were 50 yrs ago. The internet certainly ramped up the knowledge in this area.

The only person that can truly determine the value of a product, is of course the person that is spending the $$$.
 
That statement about commercial aquaculture foods being "functionally adequate" brings to mind yet another possible instance of false economy that I nearly fell into. I had read in some of thebiggerthebetter thebiggerthebetter 's posts about a commercial catfish pellet he had been using for an extended period for many of his big fish. Ziegler's, I think? In any case, I read that and the "cheap gears" started turning in my head. Why should I buy Massivore or North Fin pellets when these cheap ones were available? I mean, they must work if farms that raise the fish commercially use them...right?

As it happens, Viktor had some problems with some of his fish, which seemed to be at least partially resolved when he switched over to Hikari pellets from the cheapies. At the time I was thinking maybe this meant that the cheap stuff was designed to be...first and foremost...cheap...but a secondary goal was to maximize fish growth in minimal time for maximum profitability. It seemed as though this goal might not be necessarily compatible with maximizing long life and health.

Since I would only ever have one or two large fish for the rest of my life, rather than ponds full of monsters, it finally (!) dawned on me that it was totally ridiculous for me to worry about the cost difference between good and barely adequate foods...especially when barely adequate didn't even seem to be the case for long term use.

A recent conversation with a new local vet was also interesting. He stated that even the cheapest, crappiest dog food on the market...was perfectly adequate for a healthy dog...as long as I were willing to deal with more and larger stools to clean up in the yard! I didn't even consider switching over, as making my own dog food is something I enjoy...but it really made me wonder about fillers...

...and now RD. RD. comments on unnecessary waste being introduced into a tank as fillers. To me, that is virtually a non-issue; I change a lot of water and do it often, as I am fully retired and have plenty of time. I clean mechanical filters pretty religiously as well, often on a daily basis. So, if fillers are merely inert crap that passes through a fish and into my water...it really doesn't scare me that much.

So, which is it? Are cheap, filler-laden foods to be trusted to provide adequate nutrition but at the cost of increased waste production...as the vet suggested was the case with dog food? Or...are they actually inadequate in terms of nutrition provided...as suggested by Viktor's experience? I'm sure that the studies done on canine nutrition are far more numerous and in-depth than similar studies on fish, leading one to think that all dog foods are indeed "adequate"...whereas fish foods are perhaps more likely to be less so...or are they?

I'm looking also at the example of reptile nutrition. I suspect that it is even further down the scale of being fully understood than dogs or fish; it was not that long ago that turtle food was sold which consisted entirely of dried ant pupae, but now I have a can of turtle pellets on the shelf with an impressive list of ingredients and supplements, and it claims "complete" nutrition. My turtle's diet has been focused around these "complete" pellets...with considerable supplementation of natural foods...for the several years I've had him. He's grown to a fairly large size for his fairly small species, and seems very healthy...hard-shelled, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed...but he's a turtle and his natural lifespan is several times as long as I've had him. Will he live as long on the commercial diet? Again...how to know?

I know there's no single hard-and-fast answer...and it's making my head hurt...:)
 
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As it happens, Viktor had some problems with some of his fish, which seemed to be at least partially resolved when he switched over to Hikari pellets from the cheapies.

Viktor switched to NLS, not to corn sticks. ;)


So, which is it? Are cheap, filler-laden foods to be trusted to provide adequate nutrition but at the cost of increased waste production...as the vet suggested was the case with dog food? Or...are they actually inadequate in terms of nutrition provided...as suggested by Viktor's experience? I'm sure that the studies done on canine nutrition are far more numerous and in-depth than similar studies on fish, leading one to think that all dog foods are indeed "adequate"...whereas fish foods are perhaps more likely to be less so...or are they?


First off, most animal vets spend at best a day or two, studying animal nutrition, in school. So unless they went on in their training to specialize in this field (not typical) my experience is that they are not very well versed on the subject. Just sayin ....

Secondly, my definition of perfectly adequate, may be different than others. Adequate will keep fish alive, just as hot dogs and potato chips will keep you & I alive. The questions is for how long, and in what kind of state, health wise? What if at some point the fish comes under stress, from tank mates, or breeding, or water quality, or being bagged and moved, etc? Is the lower quality, less costly food, still adequate? Just like in human food, higher quality pet food, equates to higher prices. Living and thriving can be worlds apart, when it comes to the overall health & longevity of a fish.

I was in a local big box store yesterday and saw the following, and had a chuckle. The food is in the shape of a "fly", much like the early dog biscuits were in the shape of a bone. A biscuit is a biscuit! lol

Corn, wheat soybean, and more corn, before fly larvae meal even enters into the mix!


DESCRIPTION
Laguna Fly Mix is an insect-based koi and pond fish food that is packed with protein, naturally palatable and full of essential vitamins, minerals and calcium. Flies and insects form a natural part of pond fish's diet in the wild, and this food includes sustainably-sourced black soldier fly larvae, combined with salmon, shrimp, corn and other high-quality ingredients to create a premium daily food your fish will go wild for.

Ingredients:
Corn, Wheat, Soybean Meal, Corn Gluten Meal, Black Soldier Fly Larvae, Dried Fish Protein Digest, Salmon Meal, Shrimp Meal, Salmon Oil, Dried Kelp, Monosodium Phosphate, DL-Methionine, Choline Chloride, Dicalcium Phosphate, Lecithin, L-Lysine, Vitamin E Supplement, Biotin, Niacin, Calcium L-Ascorbyl-2-Monophosphate (Source Of Vitamin C), Zinc Oxide, Manganous Oxide, D-Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Beta-Carotene
(Color), Rosemary Extract, Riboflavin, Copper Sulfate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Mononitrate, Inositol, Folic Acid, Vitamin A Supplement, Calcium Iodate, Sodium Selenite, Vitamin D3 Supplement



Guaranteed Analysis:

Crude Protein (min) 32%

Crude Fat (min) 6%,

Crude Fiber (max) 8%

Moisture (max) 11%

Ash (max) 7%

Vitamin A (min) 2,500 IU/kg
Vitamin D3 (min) 2,400 IU/kg
Vitamin E (min) 75 IU/kg
Omega-3 Fatty Acids (min) 1%
Omega-6 Fatty Acids (min) 1%




Now compare that formula, to other, more premium insect based fish foods.

New Life Spectrum Insectum Large 600g – West Lake Aquatics


Featuring 5 Insect Proteins - Mealworms, Silkworms, Black Soldier Larvae, Crickets, Grasshoppers

SOY FREE

Ingredients:

Insects (Mealworms, Silkworm Pupa, Black Soldier Larvae, Crickets, Grasshoppers); Krill (Euphasia superba), Whole Wheat Flour, Fish Oil, Seaweed (Ulva lactuca, Undaria pinnatafida, Eucheuma cottonii, Eucheuma spinosum, Chondrus crispus), Kelp, Green Algae (Chlorella pyrendoidosa), Moringa Tree Leaves, Garlic, Ginger, Astaxanthin, Spirulina, Marigold, Bentonite Clay, Sea Salt, Vitamin A Acetate, Vitamin D Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Niacin, Folic Acid, Biotin, Thiamine, Hydro-chloride, Riboflavin Supplement, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Calcium Pantothenate, L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate (Vitamin C), Choline Chloride, Ethylenediamine Dihydroiodide, Cobalt Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Manganese Sulfate, Tocopherols (a preservative)


Quality food costs more $$$, simply no getting around that fact. Do all fish require a premium diet, with superior sources of amino acids, lipids, color enhancing agents, and vitamins/minerals? Maybe, maybe not? I tend to think that just as in most animals, all other things being equal the better the diet, the better the overall health. Humans, dogs, fish, whatever.

Color alone can be major difference, between a low cost feed, and a more premium food. I have seen this many times over the years, with night & day differences in color in less than 30 days, just by changing a fishes diet.

After genetics, diet is key to getting the full natural coloration out of a fish. Feed a low cost generic farm feed for 30+ days and you'll see what I mean. I once bought an adult yellow midas (because it was yellow), that as I suspected was an orange and white "creamsicle", that I later found out was being fed a low cost commercial farm feed. I posted pics of that fish on MFK years ago, the transformation after a few weeks on NLS was shocking. I'll check and see if I can find that thread, or pics on my hard drive.

Found it, not the original thread, but another posted several years later where I posted pics of the fish, in the same tank, under the same lights, a few weeks after a change in diet.

Anybody have pics of yellow Midas and info | MonsterFishKeepers.com




I drove 2 hrs to buy that yellow midas, and boy was I disappointed when he turned orange & white a few weeks later. lol
 
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