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A 180 fw will weigh have around 1500 lbs of water, depending on decor. If you're going salt its about 1800 lbs of water, again depending on decor and fill level. But then you have the stand and equipment...a dry 180 is just shy of 350 lbs (if i remember right), and then the stand is probably...

When I read the articles I noticed that the hormones were mostly internal as well. However, there has to be a way to remove these substances from their blood stream, which I assume is the liver. The liver then has to excrete these materials from the body, so while they might not be full fledged...

Yeah, no worries. http://joe.endocrinology-journals.org/content/214/3/409.full http://ehis.ebscohost.com/eds/detail?vid=5&sid=7d0aff95-5945-4b58-ba90-7698cc1cdf4a%40sessionmgr10&hid=3&bdata=JnNpdGU9ZWRzLWxpdmUmc2NvcGU9c2l0ZQ%3d%3d#db=edswsc&AN=000309784400001 - sorry, not a full article, but...

Alright...lets go back a little bit. Did you get the T5HO fixture or the standard T5 fixture? The standard fixture is the one that comes with the 6,700 K and colormax (not 65,000 K). That fixture is just enough to do some of the very hardy plants (I know this contradicts with what mrrobxc said...

That'd be great if you can get a 4 bulb T5HO for your 30 gal. You'll also want to get some good bulbs, 6700 K will be great for your plants but they give a little yellow tint to the tank.

^agree...? There are no filters as far as I know that pull them out. Not trying to be rude, but I would have to recommend checking the expiration date of your test kit and double checking that you're reading the test correctly. The only way that you can reduce nitrates, other than water...

So, I was taught that the reason you can't have a full sized goldfish in a bowl (even with the Nitrates and other nitrogenous wastes at 0) is because the fish releases hormones that inhibit the growth and effect the internal functions of the fish. I took a quick look at some studies and found...

Is your tank drilled? or are you using an overflow box? Drilled overflows will start on their own, but boxes need a little help with starting their siphon. The tubing you got should be okay, vinyl hose is very resilient, but can get brittle and bust after long term use. If you got the flexible...

I would not use that light for a 110 with plants. The lights are decent for viewing, but they don't have very much penetrating power. Also, those fixtures have a tendency to fry bulbs or break themselves. Personally, I would go with at least a T5HO, but I'm not even sure if those can get all the...

Personally I would put the little guy in a smaller tank, I like the 20 long, or even a 15 should be okay. When it gets bigger you can put it in the 40 breeder, but for now it should be in a smaller tank so that it can get to the food easier and so that if you have to medicate its a lot easier...

Yeah, I do not really know if they do or do not release sugars into the water, but even if they do it can't be that much because people use mangroves in the salt water tanks regularly and we had some in on our store fixtures and we didn't have any issues.

I would say its a good bet you don't have enough light (watts), the time on seems about right though. Your nutrients should be good, if you want to add anything you could try adding Potassium or Iron. But first I would get new lights (T5, T5HO, LED) to fit you tank with about the appropriate...

You can absolutely splice the two drains into one, but as everyone else has said, you have to at least double the diameter. I would offer a word of caution with valving pumps down, as it reduces the amount of water that can cool the impeller and forces the pump to work harder, resulting in pumps...

I have never heard of anything like that, but as roots grow they do shed the growth tips.

Very much so, could be Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Carbon, or not enough light...not to mention the various mention the various micronutrients. Have you checked the root system, I'm goin out on a limb, how is the root system? and the area surrounding the root system?

Don't worry about draining the sump, so long as the drains can handle the flow you'll be fine. The trick will be fine tuning the flow to each tank, but with a ball valve on each side of the T it won't be too hard.

Totally agree with you Redearsunfish, the filtration and mechanics are some of the best parts about looking at people's tanks. It's always fun to see how everybody gets (basically) the same things done in the their own way.

^I agree with the old media being the best. I'm a personal fan of the Tetra Safe Start, its relatively inexpensive and works really well. The Dr. Tim products are also pretty good from what I hear, the other Dr. Tim products are really good so I would expect this to be no exception.

I think Joe means trim a section off from the top of the plant. That makes the plant send out new leading shoots, resulting in a bushier plant. The reason some people recommend trimming off the bottom section is because after a while it looses its leaves and gets leggy. Trimming off the bottom...

Wow, thats one heck of a filter set up. I'm impressed that the pothos is pulling that many nitrates out, that's amazing