1 acre pond in the works

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rnocera

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
I've finally talked my dad into doing his pond. He's been thinking about one for years, and he thinks he's up for it this summer. Right now, the idea is to do around 1 acre in surface area. So, that should be roughly circular shape around 117 feet across, or 739 feet around. He wants to do a "farm pond," but wants it to look decent. He wants to put fish in it, and be able to watch the fish from his back porch, as well as be able to fish off the porch. I guess the idea is to build the porch so it goes right up against the pond, and maybe even build a bit of it as a little "dock" to go out over the pond.

The area the pond is going into is a very marshy area. It's a very heavy clay soil with a small stream that flows through the area, making the ground very soupy. There *ahem* may or may not have been cattails growing in the area. We plan on diverting the stream and using it to fill the pond, so there is a constant water turnover, albeit not a very fast one. The stream is only about 2' wide, and 6"-1' deep in the deepest spot, so it's definitely not a very fast flow.

Also, so you know, we're in western Pennsylvania, so that may affect things like depth, stocking, etc. . .

So, I come to MFK for advice. He wants to just use the backhoe to dig a hole 5' deep and that big around, let the stream fill it, and call it a day. I think this is a horrible idea, as it's going to result in brown water, and a very small bioload. Most "farm ponds" end up looking like large mud puddles, and I'd rather avoid this, as quite frankly, I'm going to inherit the place, and I'd rather be able to enjoy the pond as something nice to look at, not just somewhere to catch catfish and bass.

Now, I am guessing that we won't need to worry about a liner. With water constantly flowing in, and a heavy clay ground that already holds 6" of water in the rainy parts of the year, I can't see us losing too much water.

What would be the best way to go about this? We're looking for something that will be simple, low maintenance, and self-sustaining. He doesn't want to worry about having a beautiful bottom, and amazing plants, and all kinds of maintenance on it. He doesn't plan on adding chemicals, or wading to remove algae, etc. . .

Is there a way to do this that we could keep the pond somewhat clear, and actually be able to see fish, other than when they come to the surface for feeding? What kind of filtration would work best for this? Any easy way to make cosmetic improvements to the pond?

My thought on it is to do a waterfall, even if not a terribly large one. Water pumped up to a box on the top, filtered through some lava rock or something similar, and then trickling down rocks for the waterfall.

My other thought is a bog area. At the LFS I work in, their pond has a waterfall that branches off into a bog that's about 6" deep with a bunch of things growing emmersed in it- water celery, cattails, mint, etc. . . This would help a ton with nitrates, and all of the gravel in it works as a place for beneficial bacteria to grow.

How deep should we dig the pond? Deep enough to overwinter fish in western Pennsylvania, but shallow enough to be able to see them, and keep water oxygenated & not stagnant.

Also, stocking suggestions? The current thought is bass, bluegills, and catfish. I'd love to be able to put my spotted gar in there, but I don't see it being warm enough for that.

Any tips? Suggestions?

Thanks!
 
I didn't think about that. I can't really imagine it being an issue. . . First off, the spring it comes out of is on our property. Also, people do this kind of thing around here ALL the time.

But, I'll give the DCNR a call and see what they say.
 
First you need to be sure your not going to dig past the clay layer to a material that makes perfect drainage :nilly:. Dig a test hole to the depth of the pond and check the soil mix there. Then see if the hole will hold water. Farm ponds usually have a real clay bottom to them sometimes hardpacked down by livestock over a year or two period.

If you can't divert the stream permanently consider damming the stream temporarily so you can just slide a couple of boards in place to divert the water.


60'w x 9'd in center, next 15' x 4' outer ring tapered to edge with 3" rock from 2 ft in the water to 2ft out of the water. Treat the outer ring as the bog area. Use lots of cattails (they're cheap (free) nad one of the best filter plants available. Mix in other plants that don't shed their leaves.

Next suggestion would be to modify the above and offset the deep center closer to the house.

Can you get large oak barrels locally? 6-7 filled with lava rock and staggered in height & draining into each other would make a good looking bio-filter.

Consider a fountain running from half way down in the deepest area for circulation so the water doesn't statify and stagnate.

Do you have prevailing winds? A windmill (or several small ones) could pump the water for you if so.

Bass are big eaters and you will have to stock the pond with forage food (bluegill etc) for them (this size pond could only support 5-6 LMB). Go with the panfish, maybe a few small mouth bass just 'cause it's a guy pond ;). Are carp legal there? Large shiners, chubs etc. are fun to feed.

And don't even think about putting ducks in there, you won't be able to handle the bio-load!

Food for thought.

Dr Joe

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Dr Joe;2688719; said:
First you need to be sure your not going to dig past the clay layer to a material that makes perfect drainage :nilly:. Dig a test hole to the depth of the pond and check the soil mix there. Then see if the hole will hold water. Farm ponds usually have a real clay bottom to them sometimes hardpacked down by livestock over a year or two period.

I hadn't thought about that! Good point, there.

If you can't divert the stream permanently consider damming the stream temporarily so you can just slide a couple of boards in place to divert the water.
If we can't divert it, that's probably what we'll end up doing. Although I really don't see a problem with diverting it.

60'w x 9'd in center, next 15' x 4' outer ring tapered to edge with 3" rock from 2 ft in the water to 2ft out of the water. Treat the outer ring as the bog area. Use lots of cattails (they're cheap (free) nad one of the best filter plants available. Mix in other plants that don't shed their leaves.

Next suggestion would be to modify the above and offset the deep center closer to the house. . . .

Sounds good there. The cattails are out. In PA here, cattails are one of the things that determine what a wetlands is. Once an area is considered a wetlands, it's illegal to change the habitat. Specifically what comes to mind is a farm a couple miles away from where I grew up. Some beavers dammed up a creek, and the DCNR decided it became a wetlands. The "wetlands" flooded several acres of field, and the farmer lost a lot of farmland because of it. But other than that, there's a great idea.

The fountain is a great idea. I'll have to suggest that one. Definitely not enough wind for windmills, and it's in the woods surrounded by trees on 3 sides, anyway. And DEFINITELY no ducks. Carp are legal. We have them in the wild.

Thanks for the food for thought!
 
"The cattails are out. In PA here, cattails are one of the things that determine what a wetlands is. Once an area is considered a wetlands, it's illegal to change the habitat"

Even if you create the habitat?

Good idea to call DNR invisyblegypsey, but have all your ducks in a row.

Dr Joe

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Keep the mint out of your pond. It will spread and become invasive.

Stick w/the catails, arrowheads(sagittaria),pontederia, acorus sp., sedges and natives for landscaping around the pond.

A filter maybe a waste of energy. If you have a constant supply of fresh water coming in, the filter maybe redundant. A bog filter is the way to go if you want a filter. Lava rocks will clog, and you should have enough BB in the pond that the little extra media it provides will just need maintenace. Not to say there will not be any maint., it will just be a little here and there. More up front in the first few years, but those extra hours spent removing algae mats and invasive plants will pay off in the end.
 
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