100 Gallon for RES

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Penelope

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Oct 15, 2009
21
0
0
New Hampshire
I'm picking up a 100 gallon tank next weekend for my RES. Any suggestions on setup? I'd like to keep it fairly simple for cleanup. Just not sure what to put in it. He has been in a 20 gallon since I got him last week (I know that's too small) so he should be much happier with his new home!! Also will the 100 gallon be big enough for him when he's full grown?
 
Penelope;3545587; said:
I'm picking up a 100 gallon tank next weekend for my RES. Any suggestions on setup? I'd like to keep it fairly simple for cleanup. Just not sure what to put in it. He has been in a 20 gallon since I got him last week (I know that's too small) so he should be much happier with his new home!! Also will the 100 gallon be big enough for him when he's full grown?


I wouldnt use any gravel just use solid color poster board on outside bottom of tank (I think it looks much nicer than being able to see the floor) .

Driftwood or Mopani wood that sinks is easy to move around when you siphon out junk and looks nice. Even a floating piece he will hang out on

One of those turtle piers,etc that he can haul out and bask.
I have a baby Florida map turtle and cooter outside so an expert I am not but I have an easy to clean set up outside and it works great .
They produce lots of waste for their size.

I would think a 100 gallon is GREAT .
 
I keep a RES, a chicken turtle and 3 cooters outdoors in the Philadelphia suburbs. I only took them indoors 2 weeks ago. Temps were dropping to the 50's, high 40's, and I moved them to their indoor winter quarters in the basement. One of my cooters has been in my household for 31 years, and she was about 25 years old when I got her in 1978. I have kept turtles for 50 years now. They are very sturdy animals, and if you pay attention to them, you can tell when they need to get in out of the cold. When I bring them indoors, they really seem to know that they will be in the basement pond for a few months (till April, actually). They adjust to the seasonal change really well. I used to heat their 200 gallon indoor pond throughout the winter, but it got costly. They are now in water at about 55 to 65 degrees all winter, and they slow down a bit, eating about 25% of the amount they eat during the warmer months, but they thrive. If it gets TOO cool in the basement pond I run some hot/warm water into their environment, but, frankly they seem to do well in the cool water, eating less but staying rather active till spring. When I DO bring them out again in April, they seem to rejoice when reintroduced to the more natural environment. Sometimes I'll use supplemental heaters, both indoors and in the backyard pond, but basically, if you pay attention to them, they'll make their metabolic needs known by their behavior. I have learned by trial and error, but you can really tell by their behavior when they are adequately cared for, and when you have to punch it up a notch. Listen to them.
 
clifton;3550057; said:
I keep a RES, a chicken turtle and 3 cooters outdoors in the Philadelphia suburbs. I only took them indoors 2 weeks ago. Temps were dropping to the 50's, high 40's, and I moved them to their indoor winter quarters in the basement. One of my cooters has been in my household for 31 years, and she was about 25 years old when I got her in 1978. I have kept turtles for 50 years now. They are very sturdy animals, and if you pay attention to them, you can tell when they need to get in out of the cold. When I bring them indoors, they really seem to know that they will be in the basement pond for a few months (till April, actually). They adjust to the seasonal change really well. I used to heat their 200 gallon indoor pond throughout the winter, but it got costly. They are now in water at about 55 to 65 degrees all winter, and they slow down a bit, eating about 25% of the amount they eat during the warmer months, but they thrive. If it gets TOO cool in the basement pond I run some hot/warm water into their environment, but, frankly they seem to do well in the cool water, eating less but staying rather active till spring. When I DO bring them out again in April, they seem to rejoice when reintroduced to the more natural environment. Sometimes I'll use supplemental heaters, both indoors and in the backyard pond, but basically, if you pay attention to them, they'll make their metabolic needs known by their behavior. I have learned by trial and error, but you can really tell by their behavior when they are adequately cared for, and when you have to punch it up a notch. Listen to them.
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This was interesting and informative. I recently had chilly night air concern (dropped to 64) though went back up to 80s during day.

Was worried for nothing but fast temp drop worried me. Temps are normal now .
 
Something I've had success with in larger tanks is putting in a milk crate, on its side, and then the basking rocks on top. Saves having a huge heavy rockpile, and the turtle can seim underneath. Sort of the same principle as the turtle docks, except the large RES and other sliders will sink the docks with their weight.

Also if you really want substrate, see if you can find the large smooth decorative stones...the nurseries and garden shops call them "river stones". Round and somewhat flat, they're big enough to keep food etc from getting trapped in them, and also the turtles will be able to pick missed food from between them. And they look nice.

What's your planned filtration look like? I like fluvals...400 series might be enough, but going for a fx5 would be better.
 
Thanks for the info!! I'm going to pick up the filter(s) tomorrow. Not quite sure which one to get yet so any recommendations would be great!! Not sure yet if I want to get one big one or two smaller ones. Will definitely look into the fluvals. Will also be looking for a nice big piece of driftwood. I think I will stick with the dock till the little guy gets too big for it. Then maybe corkbark? Is that what it's called? Anyone use this with any luck?
 
Another question on filters. Are canisters easy to set up? I've never used one and was going to just use two internal filters. Do canisters work better than internals?
 
Canisters take a bit more time to set up, especially your first one, but they're easy to maintain afterwards. Whichever you go with, make sure you have lots of mechanical filtration. I suggest using a prefilter around the intake to keep out larger solids, and some finer mechanical media in the filter; otherwise your filter will quickly fill with turtle sludge.

CTU2 fan's milkcrate idea is a good one. If you can't find a milkcrate that will fit, you can also build a platform with PVC pipe and eggcrate or a sturdy plastic tote with access holes cut in it.
 
I've got an internal filter currently and I really don't like it, it's the bigger internal fluval, either fluval 3 or 4, I forget which one but it's the biggest one. They take up space and they're not as easy to customize re: media etc as a canister is.

With my fluval canister I use the big foam blocks it comes with, and pot scrubbies in the baskets. The big blocks tend to catch the large things, and I just rinse them out when they clog.

If he's still small the dock will work for awhile, once he gets to 5-6" or so he'll sink it when he climbs on. I've heard the corkbark works well, but I haven't figured a way to rig it so it doesn't float all over the place or tip when they try to climb on.
 
OK so I have had the tank a week and he LOVES it!!! Turns out that it is only 75 gallons but it is still much better than the 10!! Wanted to know if anyone thinks I will have to upgrade again or if this size tank is sufficient for a single male RES?
 
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