125 gallon with Black Silicon has Leak.... !!!!

[MeatHook]

Older post but if you're still interested I would not recommend using a chemical silicone removal product unless you are completely tearing down the tank. The product may leech into the glass to glass seals and weaken them enough to potentially cause a failure point. When I resealed my 135, I researched extensively to find out the most common and successful ways of doing so and what I found was:

1. Remove all old silicone seals using razor blades being careful not to insert the blade between the contact area of the glass. Only remove the silicone inside the tank area not between the glass panels.

2. Inspect the glass to glass seams and look for any bubbles or "veins" of air which could be a potential weak point in the structural bonding. If found you may need to consider a complete tear down and reassembly if the problem is widespread.

3. Take your time and do it slowly. Do Not Rush.

4. After removing all old silicone you can wipe down the area with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (no additives other than water) or if careful, Acetone but not to the point of saturation. Just a little on the cloth for a damp wipe down followed with the alcohol.

5. Let completely dry and seal with the sealant of your choice.

I followed these steps including the acetone with my tank in October last year and have been happy ever since.

Good Luck...

 

[MaddMaxx]

Older post but if you're still interested I would not recommend using a chemical silicone removal product unless you are completely tearing down the tank. The product may leech into the glass to glass seals and weaken them enough to potentially cause a failure point. When I resealed my 135, I researched extensively to find out the most common and successful ways of doing so and what I found was:

1. Remove all old silicone seals using razor blades being careful not to insert the blade between the contact area of the glass. Only remove the silicone inside the tank area not between the glass panels.

2. Inspect the glass to glass seams and look for any bubbles or "veins" of air which could be a potential weak point in the structural bonding. If found you may need to consider a complete tear down and reassembly if the problem is widespread.

3. Take your time and do it slowly. Do Not Rush.

4. After removing all old silicone you can wipe down the area with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (no additives other than water) or if careful, Acetone but not to the point of saturation. Just a little on the cloth for a damp wipe down followed with the alcohol.

5. Let completely dry and seal with the sealant of your choice.

I followed these steps including the acetone with my tank in October last year and have been happy ever since.

Good Luck...

x2... I did the same except I did a full tear down, which I regret only in that I believe now it was a waste of time.

 

[Mastiffman]

Older post but if you're still interested I would not recommend using a chemical silicone removal product unless you are completely tearing down the tank. The product may leech into the glass to glass seals and weaken them enough to potentially cause a failure point. When I resealed my 135, I researched extensively to find out the most common and successful ways of doing so and what I found was:

1. Remove all old silicone seals using razor blades being careful not to insert the blade between the contact area of the glass. Only remove the silicone inside the tank area not between the glass panels.

2. Inspect the glass to glass seams and look for any bubbles or "veins" of air which could be a potential weak point in the structural bonding. If found you may need to consider a complete tear down and reassembly if the problem is widespread.

3. Take your time and do it slowly. Do Not Rush.

4. After removing all old silicone you can wipe down the area with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (no additives other than water) or if careful, Acetone but not to the point of saturation. Just a little on the cloth for a damp wipe down followed with the alcohol.

5. Let completely dry and seal with the sealant of your choice.

I followed these steps including the acetone with my tank in October last year and have been happy ever since.

Good Luck...

x2... I did the same except I did a full tear down, which I regret only in that I believe now it was a waste of time.

Cool! Thanks to you both! Sounds like very good info!

 

[BvH]

Older post but if you're still interested I would not recommend using a chemical silicone removal product unless you are completely tearing down the tank. The product may leech into the glass to glass seals and weaken them enough to potentially cause a failure point. When I resealed my 135, I researched extensively to find out the most common and successful ways of doing so and what I found was:

1. Remove all old silicone seals using razor blades being careful not to insert the blade between the contact area of the glass. Only remove the silicone inside the tank area not between the glass panels.

2. Inspect the glass to glass seams and look for any bubbles or "veins" of air which could be a potential weak point in the structural bonding. If found you may need to consider a complete tear down and reassembly if the problem is widespread.

3. Take your time and do it slowly. Do Not Rush.

4. After removing all old silicone you can wipe down the area with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (no additives other than water) or if careful, Acetone but not to the point of saturation. Just a little on the cloth for a damp wipe down followed with the alcohol.

5. Let completely dry and seal with the sealant of your choice.

I followed these steps including the acetone with my tank in October last year and have been happy ever since.

Good Luck...

Question for #4: I know the dollar store sells the 70% Isopropyl alcohol. Is that good enough or do you need 91%?

Question for #5: How much sealant should be used? I've heard not to be stingy with it, but have also heard of some who use too much and the silicone sealed inside is not able to cure. Can you give a description on what to look for?

Thanks!

 

[MeatHook]

Question for #4: I know the dollar store sells the 70% Isopropyl alcohol. Is that good enough or do you need 91%?

BvH, the 70% should be fine as long as the other 30% is water. Avoid "Rubbing Alcohol" as it can contain other chemicals. I used the 91 because it was available and no more expensive than the 70. Evaporates quickly too.

Question for #5: How much sealant should be used? I've heard not to be stingy with it, but have also heard of some who use too much and the silicone sealed inside is not able to cure. Can you give a description on what to look for?

As far as how much sealant to use it kinda depends on the size tank you're attempting to reseal. My 135 gallon took just over one contractor size tube (10 oz.) and my seals on the sides are 3/8 inch wide when looking through from the outside,and the bottom is over killed at about 3/4 inch wide per panel. The amount you'll need will vary on the size of the bead you lay down and how wide your finished seam will be.

As for the description of what to use there are many threads that cover this, believe me I researched until my head hurt and read so many opinions. You should use 100% silicone only, and my best advice would be to spend the extra couple of bucks to buy the aquarium sealant from a place like All Glass Aquarium. It's what they use to build their tanks. That way you don't second guess yourself at the last minute or worry that maybe you made the wrong choice. Opinions vary on this but why scrimp on something that could keep you from resting easy. You will hear that you can get GE Silicone 1 for about 6 dollars a tube. I purchased 2 tubes of Dow Corning 795 to reseal my tank and with shipping it came to under $26 and that was more expensive than 2 tubes would have cost from the aquarium builder I mentioned above. So I could have saved what, 14 bucks? I'm sure the GE stuff works good as a lot of people have used it, but the 14 dollars didn't bother me so... BTW I used the 795 on mine because I wanted black seals and had the 21 days to wait for a full cure among other reasons.

Good luck on your reseal BvH.

 

[BvH]

As far as how much sealant to use it kinda depends on the size tank you're attempting to reseal. My 135 gallon took just over one contractor size tube (10 oz.) and my seals on the sides are 3/8 inch wide when looking through from the outside,and the bottom is over killed at about 3/4 inch wide per panel. The amount you'll need will vary on the size of the bead you lay down and how wide your finished seam will be.

As for the description of what to use there are many threads that cover this, believe me I researched until my head hurt and read so many opinions. You should use 100% silicone only, and my best advice would be to spend the extra couple of bucks to buy the aquarium sealant from a place like All Glass Aquarium. It's what they use to build their tanks. That way you don't second guess yourself at the last minute or worry that maybe you made the wrong choice. Opinions vary on this but why scrimp on something that could keep you from resting easy. You will hear that you can get GE Silicone 1 for about 6 dollars a tube. I purchased 2 tubes of Dow Corning 795 to reseal my tank and with shipping it came to under $26 and that was more expensive than 2 tubes would have cost from the aquarium builder I mentioned above. So I could have saved what, 14 bucks? I'm sure the GE stuff works good as a lot of people have used it, but the 14 dollars didn't bother me so... BTW I used the 795 on mine because I wanted black seals and had the 21 days to wait for a full cure among other reasons.

Good luck on your reseal BvH.

Man, what a coincidence... I too am resealing a 135g tank. When you say you used just over 1 contractor sized tube, did you end up resealing every interior seam in the tank? When you did the actual silicone sealing, did you lay the tank on it's side at all or was all the work done with it facing upright?

I was really thinking about picking up some GE Silicone I Windows and Doors. I figure I could do the seals, make sure they are on right and just have the tank outside holding water for 2 months. I'm just really weary about it. I don't think the house insurance covers faulty home aquariums...

 

[MeatHook]

Man, what a coincidence... I too am resealing a 135g tank. When you say you used just over 1 contractor sized tube, did you end up resealing every interior seam in the tank? When you did the actual silicone sealing, did you lay the tank on it's side at all or was all the work done with it facing upright?

I did a complete reseal on every seam with the tank standing upright on it's stand. I also used masking tape for clean, straight seams.

I was really thinking about picking up some GE Silicone I Windows and Doors. I figure I could do the seals, make sure they are on right and just have the tank outside holding water for 2 months. I'm just really weary about it. I don't think the house insurance covers faulty home aquariums...

You were spot on about the coincidence. I guess great minds think alike . I even went so far as to call my insurance company regarding the possibility of seam failure and coverage. I was told that since it was not excluded specifically in my policy that it should be OK. They absolutely would not commit to say I was covered for sure, just that they couldn't see why not. I guess I'll have to wait to find out!