125 vs 180 pros & cons

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Pump strength and power may depend on the species of Geo's kept, and may determine success.
With the use of simple a canister as filtration, for some species, a couple added powerheads may be needed to increase flow and promote oxygen saturation.
The species that are more rheophillic are those with boosted O2 saturation level needs, powerheads could also produce the riverine flow, simulating natural conditions.
The video below by Oliver Lucanus, is a good guide for providing the proper flow for certain species.
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The type species kept, may also determine what is a better tank size choice.
The larger species like some from the altifrons group, may do best in a 180 at maturity due to their max size.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/alb...age001-42.jpg?width=450&height=278&crop=fillI

I found a 125 did well for my Gymnogeophagus / Uruguayan community tank with their smaller general adult sizes.
But when I tried to keep those of the "red hump (steindachneri) group, they needed a much larger footprint, due to a much more aggressive disposition.
Tap water parameters may also determine what species kept will be successful.
Some of the black water species may restricted if tap water is not soft enough.
 
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NCStateFisher said:
Biggest thing would just be to always make sure you've got plenty of water in the system before leaving town, if things were to evaporate below your overflow your return bump will run the sump dry, burn itself out and you'd lose your BB in the process
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Also make sure that if your power goes out the sump can handle any of the water that may drain down from the display tank
 
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celebrist said:
Also make sure that if your power goes out the sump can handle any of the water that may drain down from the display tank
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True. The other end of the spectrum / balance
 
dogofwar said:
I do above-the-tank sumps (AKA dump filters) - don't requiring drilling or dorking with overflows, can run even a large tank on a relatively small pump or powerhead (because there is very little head loss). They can even look nice if you use of a planter or some nice looking container.
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Any chance you could explain how you built the dump filter?
 
i find tanks with an 18" front to back to be a large -medium sized tanks and don't allow for stocking or aquascaping the way i like. 125's are great for pairs of CA fish but i much prefer my 180's. 24" front to back i consider large format tanks, certainly not a monster tank but getting into the real fun.

I also wouldn't buy any tank taller than a 24" depth, they are just an absolute PITA to clean/work in. I'm basing this off of being 5'10"
 
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Sure - You get a rubbermaid bin (or whatever container that you like... or an actual sump) and instead of putting it below the tank, you put it on top.

You feed water to it via a pump in the tank... and you drill a hole or two in the bottom (or the side, depending on how you have it set up) to let water return to the tank via gravity (i.e dump back into the tank).

If you're making your own with a Rubbermaid or other container, the choices are endless. I fill some of mine with lava rock and use Poret on the top as a pre-filter. You can use bioballs, scrubbies, whatever you like. I like the under-the-bed type rubbermaids as they can fit under another tank on a two-rack stand and serve as a lid. I do the water input on one side and the outputs on the other.


aussieman57 said:
Any chance you could explain how you built the dump filter?
Click to expand...
 
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Still mulling this over and over. I've got a 10 ft x 10 ft room to work with to build a fish room. Wondering if the 180 would take up too much real estate. I know it's only 6 inches wider but that makes a dent when only working with a 10 ft space. Really want the 6 ft tank and thinking a lot about whether to go 125 or 180. I'll use the other wall for a tank rack. Hmmm...
 
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