180/210 Tank Stand
- Thread starter BizTodd
- Start date
Made some more progress on the stand. But now that I actually own a tank, I'm splitting my time between restoring the tank, and finishing the stand.
The top has been cut and attached. I built the floor for the sump, and used some left over flooring to match the room since I hope to leave the cabinet open. The left side has no floor, because that is a 20# CO2 bottle and it's a little tall. I cut and added a back wall, so I can attach my heater controller and the CO2 reactor. Face frame has been cut to size and will get attached today. Then some wood putty, and sanding. I am thinking I will paint it gloss black to match the tanks floor back and left panels.
The top has been cut and attached. I built the floor for the sump, and used some left over flooring to match the room since I hope to leave the cabinet open. The left side has no floor, because that is a 20# CO2 bottle and it's a little tall. I cut and added a back wall, so I can attach my heater controller and the CO2 reactor. Face frame has been cut to size and will get attached today. Then some wood putty, and sanding. I am thinking I will paint it gloss black to match the tanks floor back and left panels.
The stand is close enough to done ?
I sanded the entire tank to 400 Grit, then painted to bottom, the back and left side black. The front, right side and top went from 400->800->1000->2000 and then Novus step 2 polish. It also passed a 1 week water test.
It is in the house, the sump is plumbed.
I didn't realize that the tank was designed to be bare bottom when I bought it, so I do have a slight change in plans. It was originally going to be a Dutch style aquascape with mineralized top soil, but instead will leverage planters along the back wall for the stem plants, hanging pots for carpeting plants to cascade, and other plants attached to rock for the foreground. I would still like to avoid hardscape as I heard Rainbowfish can easily injure themselves.
We are going to be stocking it with Rainbowfish (duh) and maybe Denison Barbs, so any suggestions on numbers and such would be great.
I sanded the entire tank to 400 Grit, then painted to bottom, the back and left side black. The front, right side and top went from 400->800->1000->2000 and then Novus step 2 polish. It also passed a 1 week water test.
It is in the house, the sump is plumbed.
I didn't realize that the tank was designed to be bare bottom when I bought it, so I do have a slight change in plans. It was originally going to be a Dutch style aquascape with mineralized top soil, but instead will leverage planters along the back wall for the stem plants, hanging pots for carpeting plants to cascade, and other plants attached to rock for the foreground. I would still like to avoid hardscape as I heard Rainbowfish can easily injure themselves.
We are going to be stocking it with Rainbowfish (duh) and maybe Denison Barbs, so any suggestions on numbers and such would be great.
Just take a Measurement from the bottom of the 2 x 6 to the floor before and after you fill it up. As long as your deflection isn't that much you'll be fine. If your deflection is like 3/8 or something i would just drain it and reinforce it. I would also check it periodically thats the problem with wood is it will sag over time. All so if it is an Acrylic tank I would put more cross bracing on the top Because it's not supported on the edges like a glass tank. Stand looks good!
Thanks I will. That is (4) 2*6 laminated and screwed together. I do have a 2*4 cut to length and I might stick in their just to be safe.
Todd
I had to cut one of the support's out of my stand to get my sump in my stand is medal I have to put a bottle Jack under it and jacket up a 16th of an inch to get the support in and out maybe that's something you can do not screw the center support in and be able to remove it when you need it
Nice and snug, but not attached. If I ever can't remove them, then I'll know it was a good idea I put them there.
