220 gallon won't clear up

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ClearWater_Aquatics

ClearWater_Aquatics

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 12, 2015
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Hello again mfk.com members. I've had my 220 gallon tank up and running for 4 months now and it won't clear up at all. I'm running a 67 gallon trickle tower sump. My media layers are activated carbon and api bio Chem Zorb, the second layer is Lee's bio balls marienland bio balls and ceramic rings and the third layer is plastic scrubby sponges. I'm also running a marienland canister that is the 4 stage one i belive. (Idk what it is I got it for free tho lol) I have 2 sunsun 304bs coming in the mail and I'm also putting a 40 gallon k1 sump together as we speak. (Most likely it will be up in 2 weeks) I do regular maintenance each week. (50% water change) I don't know what else to do. I'M STUMPED! I love having a tank of that size but it's almost embarrassing cause all my other tanks are super clear and on point. I tested my water with my testing kit and the nitrates nitrites and ammonia are at 0.0ppm. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Try a tank clearing product. It binds the particles together so they sink to the bottom. This clears the water but you may need to clean your gravel after the process. I have used these products on my tanks and it worked. With a tank that size, you may end up using near an entire bottle.
 
What color is the water? Does it look like there are particles or just murky?

If particles, I would try seachem clarity - works like a charm and you will notice a difference almost immediately. (it might be worth your time to get a bottle regardless, pretty cheap and can't hurt to have)

Clarity won't help though with an algae/bacteria bloom in my experience. If you're willing to shell out the money, grab a UV sterilizer. My 180 was fully green and within 4 days it was crystal clear. In addition to clarification, you get sterilization if the flow rate is slow enough. I know people tend to shy away from UVs on freshwater tanks but it has only done good for me.

Feel free to message me for more details on the UV, because like you, I couldn't get my water to be clear. This was the only thing that worked for me
 
If your Nitrates are at 0 than thats a sign your tank is not cycled. A cycled tank will always have some nitrates. If your water color is a cloudy white color, than its most likely a bacteria bloom. What are you using to test your water? If your using api test kit make sure you are testing the nitrates correctly. You say you have other tanks, see what your nitrates are in all your tanks, if all are at 0, id bet your testing wrong or have a bad test kit. If your other tanks have nitrates than you know your 220 isn't cycled.
 
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catfishacr said:
If your Nitrates are at 0 than thats a sign your tank is not cycled. A cycled tank will always have some nitrates. If your water color is a cloudy white color, than its most likely a bacteria bloom. What are you using to test your water? If your using api test kit make sure you are testing the nitrates correctly. You say you have other tanks, see what your nitrates are in all your tanks, if all are at 0, id bet your testing wrong or have a bad test kit. If your other tanks have nitrates than you know your 220 isn't cycled.
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^^^^THIS^^^^^
If you're using the API liquid kit for nitrate....shake the heck out of those bottles.

If its cloudiness from floating particles, try stuffing the bottom trays of those 304s with filter floss. This will act as a polisher and remove fine particulates in the water.

I advised against using chemicals clarifiers as they are just masking the real issue to the problem. Plus, its debatable on how fish safe they actually are
 
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xraycer said:
^^^^THIS^^^^^
If you're using the API liquid kit for nitrate....shake the heck out of those bottles.

If its cloudiness from floating particles, try stuffing the bottom trays of those 304s with filter floss. This will act as a polisher and remove fine particulates in the water.

I advised against using chemicals clarifiers as they are just masking the real issue to the problem. Plus, its debatable on how fish safe they actually are
Click to expand...

Raycer,
Just curious, would you recommend the whole water test kit or the test strips? If you prefer one over the other would you explain why please?
 
kraftjd4610 said:
Raycer,
Just curious, would you recommend the whole water test kit or the test strips? If you prefer one over the other would you explain why please?
Click to expand...
I've always used the liquid test just because it seems like most fish keepers believe it is more accurate. However, I've actually never tested this "conventional wisdom". The problem with the API liquid nitrate test is that the colors can be so difficult to differentiate, its almost a guessing game between 20ppm. Like I said, it is super important to shake the hell out of those bottles to get the most accurate reading. Like Catfishacr posted, you should have some sort of nitrate, otherwise your tank doesn't have the appropriate bb colonies to breakdown toxic ammonia/nitrite. However, if your test is indicating 0 ammonia and its been running for awhile, with livestock in the tank, then your nitrate test is probably faulty or you're not using it correctly.
 
I am guessing that your tank is not stocked yet as all your levels are zero. since you don't have anything producing ammonia you do not have a biological colony as of yet and if you add seachem stability and other products with bacteria they will die out as they do not have anything to feed on. I would add a source of ammonia to the tank while you are getting the cycle started or just add seachem and the fish. (cheaper fish to start) then as you add more fish dose with stability.

if it is stocked then slow down on the water changes so you are not starving the starting bacteria and add the seachem.
 
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