225 gallon tank with pinhole leaks on the back edge. Question on process of reseal.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
okay, need to know about the process of pulling the plastic trim from the bottom of the tank, best means for doing it. Then separating the bottom glass from the sides.

From what I can see my side butt joints holding the vertical pieces together are nice and clean and intact. But I've got a few places on the bottom where I think the joints need to flat out just be redone. I got a couple 90 pound suction cups today(6 total) figure 3 people lifting with those can help drop the 4 sides down onto the bottom glass once I've got it off and go for the reseal/reattach.

But popping that plastic trim and the bottom piece off has me a bit vexed.
 
The plastic trim is usually attached to the tank with silicone also. You need to use a thin blade to insert between the glass and plastic trim to sever the silicone from the trim. It can be very tedious work.

Your other choice is to cut through the plastic trim at the corners of the tank to remove the trim in 4 individual pieces. You will still have to use a thin blade to sever the silicone from the trim but you won't be dealing with one large piece of trim. If you choose to use this method, first find out if you can get a replacement one piece trim from your local fish store or online before destroying the original trim.
 
one thing that I did when re-sealing a 150g without disassembling it was to get some pieces of 1/2" thick glass cut. Silicone them in place in the center of the longest span along the bottom. This strengthens the support along the weakest part. of the glass where it flexes the most.

Mike
 
deeda, looking at my tank(since it is a custom at 50 x 36 x 24) is that the trim is 4 pieces that were miter cut and then glued around the edges. I'm not sure if the corners are held with epoxy or with silicone. At one of my leaks, the edging has ever so slightly split at it's mitered corner. I am pretty sure I will not find a one piece trim from anywhere. If I could find new molding pieces I could cut and build my own new trim for the bottom.


Clearwater guy said:
one thing that I did when re-sealing a 150g without disassembling it was to get some pieces of 1/2" thick glass cut. Silicone them in place in the center of the longest span along the bottom. This strengthens the support along the weakest part. of the glass where it flexes the most.

Mike
Click to expand...


I have thought about doing a reinforcement along the edges to add stability, basically giving another butt joint to hold the glass in place. I could use a long one along the front of the tank and use a pair of shorter ones located to either side of the overflow in the back of the tank. Front piece I would probably cut to around 40 inches, back two would probably be cut to roughly 10-12 inches.

I'm not sure how the bottom glass would react to flexing under the weight of the water column with reinforcements not being equally placed around the tank.
 
uglygun said:
deeda, looking at my tank(since it is a custom at 50 x 36 x 24) is that the trim is 4 pieces that were miter cut and then glued around the edges. I'm not sure if the corners are held with epoxy or with silicone. At one of my leaks, the edging has ever so slightly split at it's mitered corner. I am pretty sure I will not find a one piece trim from anywhere. If I could find new molding pieces I could cut and build my own new trim for the bottom.
Click to expand...

Since the trim is 4 separate pieces, it should be slightly easier to remove it than if it was one large piece. I would guess the trim has been installed using silicone, as it is the traditional method of attaching it to the glass panes, unless the previous owner used epoxy or other material to secure it.
 
ah my friend, i am in the same boat as you... but my leaks are on my 260 (8'x2'x2')... i have taken off all of the existing silicone as well and replaced it 4x now... i am wondering if i cant apply some sort of pool liner to the bottom of the tank (inside) and siliconing it to the glass itself... maybe have it run up the sides maybe 1-2"... and silicone it to the glass inside... any thoughts on doing this? because it would be barely visible and save...a....huge...hassle..... anyone else have an idea on this? because if it works for mine... i bet it would work for you as well...
 
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