30gal brand new set-up

[jerzyperson]

i got this 30 gal tank from my grandmother a couple weeks ago and need to know what filtration setup i need, heating setup, and everything i need to keep fish alive in this tank

measurments are 30"L x 18 1/2"T x 12"W

 

[Toby_H]

You have TONS of options...

Most important question... what's your budget?

Next question, what aspects of filtration are most important to you? Being silent? Having a near apparnace?

Power Filters / Hang On Back (HOB) Filters are less expensive, but you will likely hear the water splashing a bit as it returns to the tank... they have a high turnover rate but clutter up the rim of the tank... They are super fast/easy to maintain but if not kept up just right will allow some degree of bypass (water making it back to the tank without being filtered)...

Similarly every type of filtration will have it's pros aand it's Cons... I suggest you do some reading alone to get an idea of what would suit you best.

 

[jerzyperson]

budget is not a problem. i have a HOB on my 55 gal and thought i could go with that but it already has an undergravel filtration setup, i think i might do the HOB but what about heating?

 

[Toby_H]

Provided the room the tank is in has an air temperature no more than 15*F or so lower than the tanks desired temp.... I find 2~2.5 W per gallon to be plenty... although most people use way more than necessary (which I believe contributes to heater issues).

 

[Cashlaw]

Hum, things I'd get to set up the tank:

-- Good quality sponge filter with an air pump to run it. I just like them better than HOB filters, but it's preference. Sponge filters can hold a ton of good bacteria and are very quiet.

-- Submersible heater, rated about 50W. Splurge on a better heater. Cheap ones tend to break and have unreliable thermostats.

-- If you want to go for gravel, fish seem to look the best on dark blue or black gravel. Only need a small bag. Just enough to coat the bottom of the tank with a thin layer.

-- Lights: you could get a light hood, but it might be cheaper and look nicer to get an inexpensive lamp from Target or Wal-Mart, a plug-in timer, and a compact flourescent spiral bulb (something rated equivalent to a 100W or higher regular bulb). Set the timer for 8 to 10 hours of light per day.

-- Dechlorinator: Prime is good, but almost any brand will work fine. Beckett Pond brand dechlorinator is pretty cheap at Home Depot, and works great.

-- Liquid test kits: Tetra brand is pretty easy to find, and not too expensive. Need one for ammonia, one for nitrite, one for nitrate. PH and other kinds of tests if you want them, but not strictly needed. The liquid tests are much better than the paper strips, and less expensive per use.

Beyond that, I guess it's all preference for fish, decorations, live plants, things like that. The stickies and the search function for this site are really useful for finding the steps to take to cycle the water and to stock the tank with fish.

 

[dr_sudz]

Hum, things I'd get to set up the tank:

-- Good quality sponge filter with an air pump to run it. I just like them better than HOB filters, but it's preference. Sponge filters can hold a ton of good bacteria and are very quiet.

-- Submersible heater, rated about 50W. Splurge on a better heater. Cheap ones tend to break and have unreliable thermostats.

-- If you want to go for gravel, fish seem to look the best on dark blue or black gravel. Only need a small bag. Just enough to coat the bottom of the tank with a thin layer.

-- Lights: you could get a light hood, but it might be cheaper and look nicer to get an inexpensive lamp from Target or Wal-Mart, a plug-in timer, and a compact flourescent spiral bulb (something rated equivalent to a 100W or higher regular bulb). Set the timer for 8 to 10 hours of light per day.

-- Dechlorinator: Prime is good, but almost any brand will work fine. Beckett Pond brand dechlorinator is pretty cheap at Home Depot, and works great.

-- Liquid test kits: Tetra brand is pretty easy to find, and not too expensive. Need one for ammonia, one for nitrite, one for nitrate. PH and other kinds of tests if you want them, but not strictly needed. The liquid tests are much better than the paper strips, and less expensive per use.

Beyond that, I guess it's all preference for fish, decorations, live plants, things like that. The stickies and the search function for this site are really useful for finding the steps to take to cycle the water and to stock the tank with fish.

On a 30 G tank I would have to disagree and put a strong warning out there for prime users. You can over dose prime, it does cause problems when you over dose such as de-oxygination of the water. That can really mess your fish up. If your doing water changes OVER 50 G then I would say go for it, but under I would use stress coat or another one that is rated for a smaller amount.

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

I would go for an external canister filter, so that in the future if you deside you want a bigger tank you could still run it.
The most important thing is water quality ( See your local fish stockest and ask some questions. they can point you in the right direction and take your money at the same time )
Happy days dude

 

[Toby_H]

On a 30 G tank I would have to disagree and put a strong warning out there for prime users. You can over dose prime, it does cause problems when you over dose such as de-oxygination of the water. That can really mess your fish up. If your doing water changes OVER 50 G then I would say go for it, but under I would use stress coat or another one that is rated for a smaller amount.

There was an extremely long thread discussing this topic...

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=254698

In it's development several emails were exchanged with Seachem and then posted in the thread, a few threads were made on Seachem's forum and then reposted in this thread and Seachem even had a Representative join MFK and offer some details...

The conclusion was Prime, just like every reducing agent known to mad, will reduce oxygen levels if extremely overdosed... but using up to 5 times the recommended dose on the bottle is of absolutely no risk what so ever...

Prime is a dechlorinator used by many of us and I've never once heard of a problem with an overdose of it challenging oxygen levels in a tank... I feel the post quoted above is a gross exaggeration and we should all feel very confident using Prime even in small tanks...

 

[rnocera]

If budget isn't a concern, I'd go with a canister, too. It'll be quieter, and a better deal in the long run. I never worry about my canister clogging & overflowing on the floor (which happens with HOBs), and I don't have to spend money repeatedly on filter cartridges for it. I'm already itching to replace my HOBs with canisters, even on smaller tanks.

 

[Toby_H]

If budget isn't a concern, I'd go with a canister, too. It'll be quieter, and a better deal in the long run. I never worry about my canister clogging & overflowing on the floor (which happens with HOBs), and I don't have to spend money repeatedly on filter cartridges for it. I'm already itching to replace my HOBs with canisters, even on smaller tanks.

While I cannot argue that getting a cansiter filter is worth considering...


Suggesting HOBs are a high risk of overflowing onto the floor is not rational. They are designed so when the user slacks off and doesn't do maintenance they overflow at the intake back into the tank... User error is the only way they can overflow onto the floor... and user error can cause any filter to pour water on the floor...

Not all HOBs use cartridges... and if you choose to use those that do there are DIY approaches to rebuild cartridges saving money...


I think getting a canister filter is worth considering... but I think you should make that decision based on reasl reasons... if you make that decision...