32 degrees

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
DemonShark;3907480; said:
Heating the tank up speeds up the lifecycle of the ich to make it vulnerable to the salt and medication sooner. If you arent using any salt or medication to kill the ich, all you're doing is helping the ich reproduce faster.
Sure if you crank it high enough it'll slowly start to die off, but you might lose some fish in the process, and there are some strains of ich that just cant be killed with heat and then you're completely wasting your time.

Why dont you just add salt?

Possibly just don't have enough here at the moment so I'd have to buy it, I only have a tiny amount of table salt here (for dinner tonight ha ha) It has no iodine so might pick up a big with with no iodine, not sure right now...
 
If it doesn't come back in a week, I must have killed it right? It can't be "dormant" in any way like they used to say if I didn't get all of it?
 
The iodine is not an issue. As long as it is sodium chloride and does NOT contain ferrous cyanide/yellow prussiate, then get the salt. Pickling salt, kosher salt, rock salt, "aquarium" salt will work just fine.
 
SteveR;3907496; said:
If it doesn't come back in a week, I must have killed it right? It can't be "dormant" in any way like they used to say if I didn't get all of it?
Not necessarily. This is easier said than done. Ich can still come back once your fish becomes stressed. Heat itself is not completely foolproof enough to destroy all the protozoans. Use salt or meds but do NOT combine salt with any meds containing formalin.
 
Thanks Lupin. My only problem is, didn't we just confirm that ick/ich cannot lie dormant in a tank...I understand 8-9 days may not be enough but the studies say it cannot simply come on from stress, there has to be a host too...
 
It does not have to be dormant actually in that sense. They do not. Protozoans can still reside inside gill tissues attacking and nourishing themselves on gill tissues until they begin to appear in outbreaks. The only reason you see white cysts around the fish is because the protozoans can congregate into a mass so they become quite obvious to naked eyes the more they reproduce.
 
Thanks Lupin, I understand that, what I meant was after it has gone, say for arguments sake 32 degrees + salt for 14 days and water changes, it's gone, and it literally cannot come back through stress alone. You would need to add a fish that had it in it's system (wether visible or not) or a feeder etc. Correct yeh?
 
SteveR;3931749; said:
Thanks Lupin, I understand that, what I meant was after it has gone, say for arguments sake 32 degrees + salt for 14 days and water changes, it's gone, and it literally cannot come back through stress alone. You would need to add a fish that had it in it's system (wether visible or not) or a feeder etc. Correct yeh?
Yep, this is correct. I don't advocate use of feeders for this very reason. Many people can insist on doing it but they'll eventually learn the hard way unless precautions are used to prevent parasitic infections that are far more damaging than anything else.
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com