330 Acrylic Tank Build...Got some questions

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Cornkeeper

Feeder Fish
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Apr 5, 2019
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I was able to secure several large pieces of 3/4" cell cast acrylic from where I work and came up with a design for a 330gal tank (95x30x27).....plan on using weld on #40 for seams.....first question: Should I pocket the edges so both pieces fit together and have more surface area for adhesion? (I'm a machinist and have the ability and machinery available to do it).....second question.....I plan to cut holes in the back panel for a sump setup, but I don't know enough about sumps to know how large of holes to make for an outlet or inlet, and should I have multiple inlets planned for?.....Also, where should the locations be?....or doesn't it matter?.....Thanks
 
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Does anyone have a large tank with a sump setup?.....Looking for info on inlet and outlet locations and appropriate size holes, any guidance would be helpful....Want to cut the back panel very soon and start construction of the tank
 
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#4 is usually used for seams as its more watery so can fill the gaps easily, #40 is more thicker and cannot get into seams, #40 is usualy used for filling the inner seams if you want extra support more like silicone.

In regards to sump holes you could do back or bottom. i would go back with three 2 inch holes, two for drain and one for emergency.
 
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butt joints using the pin technique is the preferred method.
then use the tip and pour method for reinforcing the joints.
as far as the holes for your bulk head, you need to determine what size plumbing you want to run. on my 240 i used 1.5" tube and drilled the holes to fit my bulkheads. placement is really up to you. you should look up bean animal style overflow and get some ideas. Hari Haran Hari Haran is selling some weld on for a great price in the market place! feel free to ask more questions. I just built my 240 and am building another soon. I have a ton of pictures. just keep in mind theres no set correct way to do this everyone is different and theres lots of variables .
 
Thanks for the reply.....I watched Beans You Tube video and it was very helpful, but raised another question.....How large of an overflow box should be for a 300 to 330 gallon tank and how many gallons should my sump be? (I found conflicting answers on the size of the sump).......I did plan on using Weld On #4 for seams and #40 for the interior seams for added security from leaks.....Just cut acrylic for a smaller trial and error tank (72"x12"x12") and plan on building it for a school of tetras with a pack of cories with lots of plants
 
sump should be as big as you can get in my opinion. as far as overflow box what I did was look at bulk reef supply boxes to figure out total cubic inches per their gph rating than built mine to suit my tank.
 
I personally like the idea of weldon 40/42 tanks as opposed to solvent. Weldon 40 is roughly 2x stronger of a bond compared to a solvent bond if done correctly, given 1 week to cure. Annealing the bond increases strength to almost 3x that of solvent. Similar results can be achieved by using a vaccuum chamber which is what I am currently working on doing for a very large custom build. To properly use weldon 40/42 it’s suggested to cut the acrylic on a low angle of roughly 5 degrees. This allows for adequate amounts of 40/42 to bond the two panels. Making the 5 degree cut is hard to do yourself. It should be done using a CNC router with the correct bit. Being a machinist I feel you could do it. If you have ever seen a large acrylic tank with 1” material or thicker, it’s likely not a solvent seam. Normally a 2 part is used such as 40. From what I have seen, most builders do not follow the 5 degree cut suggestion. Some create a small 1/16” gap between the two joining pieces by raising the acrylic sheets with chain blocks. The gap is then filled with 40. Others just lay 40 down like silicone and place the sheet on top. I personally would not go with the raised acrylic method. I cannot advise for or against pocketing the acrylic as I have not tried to do so.

If you go with solvent, use the pins method as mentioned above. Weldon 4 works well but a custom blend of acetic acid (99% pure) and methylene chloride will often result in a cleaner joint.

Joey in the video gives a good demonstration on what to do. Some wait 30s-1min before pulling pins while others pull immediately. I personally wait the 30-1min as I like the molten acrylic fillet that helps seal the edge upon pulling the pins.

For drilling, I would look into overflow boxes. Lots of cheap ones available on eBay. For myself I would want a minimum of 2 1.5” drains on a 300. As mentioned the bigger the sump the better. Make sure the sump can handle the added volume of water from the tank in case of overflow. This would be the normal level of water in the sump + an additional 1” or so of water until the level drops below the height of the overflow teeth. For your tank that would equate to roughly 12 additional gallons (assuming water level kept 1” above the overflow teeth).
 
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