350 Gallon setup and journal

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

Paulbearer

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Jul 1, 2008
1,340
20
68
Marion, NC
I've finally got the go ahead from misses to upgrade my 220 to a 350 (96x36x24). Ill be selling the 220 to offset costs (part of our deal lol).

This will be my tank that I've always wanted for over 30+ years of fish keeping. I want to plan it out and do it right if you know what I mean. I've been here for years on this board and there is a ton of great information, some I've given and a lot more I've received. I believe we all learn from each others success and failures and that is why I'm posting this. With us as a collective, this can be a wonderful addition to my family.

So, now comes the planning and getting the required components prior to getting the tank in the house. I'm going to move the residents from my 220 and 50 breader to the 350.

STOCK LIST: To help determine my needs in filteration and other needs, this is important to help make that decision:

Red Tail Giant Gourami
Chocolate Cichlid
Severums (Variety)
Firemouth
Silver Dollars (Thin Bar, Red Hook) x5-10

FILTERS: This is probably one area that can cause some of the biggest debates. I currently run a wet/dry sump, cfs 700 and ac110 on the 220. I'm not a fan of the sump at all and did it on this tank to give it a try. I do love the cfs 700 and would recommend them to anyone. I'm thinking of keeping the cfs 700 and move it to the 75 and sale the sump with the 220.

Here is what I'm thinking and feel free to give input:

Fluval FX5 (x2) http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=17320

Eheim 2180 (has built in 500w heater) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00113QTFU

Odyssea CFS 14i with UV Sterilizer (350g Ideal) http://www.aquatraders.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=42054&CartID=3

LIGHTING: This another area I'm struggling in because I have not had great success with led. I had two of the beamsworks fixtures either go out with leds or stop on me. So, I'm leaning towards t5's because of it. If I go led, I think it would be marinelands this time. Here is my current thinking:

72" 320W (4x 80W) T5 HO Quad Deluxe Light Fixture w/Built-in Digital Timer http://www.aquatraders.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=52327&CartID=1

OR

Marineland LED Double Bright Aquarium Lighting System, For Aquariums 48"-60" (x2) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051GA7U6/ref=mp_s_a_6?pi=SL75&qid=1350234799&sr=8-6

BACKGROUND AND AQUASCAPE: Ill be getting another designsbynature or Universal Backround for the back. I have a designsbynature on my 75 and I love it. Will be using the current river rocks in my 220 and some driftwood to go for a more natural look and probably pool filter sand like my other tanks.

STAND AND HOOD: Will be built by me, just like I built my 220. I plan on having this one with an open concept to allow easy access to the canister filters and wont have to dig them out of a small cabinet door.

WAVEMAKER: Ill be going with two on each side to help direct the particles and crap to the canister intakes.

Koralia 1400 (x2) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036S1ETY

Please give me your input and suggestions. Ill also update with pics as I build the stand/hood and set it up. Thanks ahead of time.

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Looks like you have a good plan in place. Are you going to set up a drip system to handle your WC's?

I live in an apartment, so I'm using my good old python.

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I recommend eheim 2262 over 2180. It sells for $400 empty but has 3 times the capacity as an fx5. I am also not a big fan of heaters in a filter. Your stand needs to be pretty roomy though, the filter looks like a five gallon bucket with a pump on top.

I have marineland double brights. It is certainly bright enough, but the color is much warmer than say the actinic blue people sometimes come to expect. The blue moonlight is great but there is only one power switch that controls both lights so you can't set your timer for moonlights. That is a little annoying since if I want moonlight and have it turn off, I need to do it manually every night.


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I live in an apartment, so I'm using my good old python.

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Actually if you go with fx5 or eheim 2262, they have a back flush valve which can be used to drain the tank. A member here had a setup to use this to power the gravel vacuum as well...I would get a fx5 or 2262 just for that feature.

I forgot to mention...I also recommend 2262 due to the fact that I only had to clean the thing once every 10 month or so...


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Actually if you go with fx5 or eheim 2262, they have a back flush valve which can be used to drain the tank. A member here had a setup to use this to power the gravel vacuum as well...I would get a fx5 or 2262 just for that feature.

I forgot to mention...I also recommend 2262 due to the fact that I only had to clean the thing once every 10 month or so...


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I was debating on getting the 2262 and one fx5 over two fx5's. I know some don't like heaters in the canister, however with no sump it would have to go in the tank. With my rocky background I really don't want that. Another option would be an inline heater I guess.

As far as the filters having a way to drain the tank off them, I understand that. My biggest concern with that is that I would do that and then wouldn't vacuum off the top of the substrate in return. But, it gives me something to think about.

I do like the marineland leds and the lack of the blue lights on another switch isn't the greatest. I could always get another blue light.

Thanks for the input so far. This is why I did this post :)

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