350 Gallon setup and journal
- Thread starter Paulbearer
- Start date
Thats awesome that ur finally getting your dream tank... When I get my own place I would like to get same dimension as yours. You mind sharing where will u get your tank? Cost, delivery and is it glass or acrylic?
As for filter id do fx5s as they are cheaper but if u have the means id go with 2262. As for lighting check out beamswork, reef capable are about same price as marinelad double brights but much brighter.
Good luck and post pics
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As for filter id do fx5s as they are cheaper but if u have the means id go with 2262. As for lighting check out beamswork, reef capable are about same price as marinelad double brights but much brighter.
Good luck and post pics
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The tank is acrylic and is from www.fishtanksdirect.com and will run $2,159.99.
The 2262, fx5, 2180 and cfs should be enough?
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if you are not doing a sump then:
1 2262, 1 fx5 and cfs...or 3-4 fx5s and cfs...
Even an Eheim fanboy I am, I don't recommend 2180(or 2080 for that matter.)
if you run say 3-4 fx5s, then your filter cleaning schedule is gonna suck.
I actually have a eheim 2262, 3 eheim 2028s and one off brand chinese filter because I had these other filters sitting around anyway. So far the bio capacity is great; servicing the 2262 is a pain but thankfully, once a year deal.
1 2262, 1 fx5 and cfs...or 3-4 fx5s and cfs...
Even an Eheim fanboy I am, I don't recommend 2180(or 2080 for that matter.)
if you run say 3-4 fx5s, then your filter cleaning schedule is gonna suck.
I actually have a eheim 2262, 3 eheim 2028s and one off brand chinese filter because I had these other filters sitting around anyway. So far the bio capacity is great; servicing the 2262 is a pain but thankfully, once a year deal.
I'm curious, what is it about sumps that you don't like?
I think the canisters you mentioned should work just fine. Do you plan to plumb the intakes and returns into the tank via bulkheads, or are you just going to use the attachments that hang into the tank? If you plan to use the standard attachments that come with the eheims and FX5s then be sure that they create openings on the top. I'm sure you've already thought of this, but I've seen a few threads where people hadn't and they have to make the cuts themselves.
In regards to maintenance, I have a relatively lightly stocked tank and the amount of poop I clean out of my (three) 8" x 32" (huge) filter socks is amazing...I have 25 micron socks in right now and I get about 10 days before they clog. I could not imagine the amount of crap you would find in a canister if you only cleaned it out once per year.
In regards to the tank, have you asked what the additional cost would be for making it out of 3/4" acrylic? Using 1/2" should be fine, but 3/4" would give you some extra safety factor/piece of mind.
I think the canisters you mentioned should work just fine. Do you plan to plumb the intakes and returns into the tank via bulkheads, or are you just going to use the attachments that hang into the tank? If you plan to use the standard attachments that come with the eheims and FX5s then be sure that they create openings on the top. I'm sure you've already thought of this, but I've seen a few threads where people hadn't and they have to make the cuts themselves.
In regards to maintenance, I have a relatively lightly stocked tank and the amount of poop I clean out of my (three) 8" x 32" (huge) filter socks is amazing...I have 25 micron socks in right now and I get about 10 days before they clog. I could not imagine the amount of crap you would find in a canister if you only cleaned it out once per year.
In regards to the tank, have you asked what the additional cost would be for making it out of 3/4" acrylic? Using 1/2" should be fine, but 3/4" would give you some extra safety factor/piece of mind.
This tank is going in the living room and therefore I want it quiet. My experience with my sump on this 220 and on my 180 I had is that they are loud. My current is a factory bought one with a hang on overflow and I'm sure that is the big reason for the noise.
I have thought about making the 350 drilled with overflows with a sump and maybe that would be quiet. So, if I can do that then maybe I could be swayed and run a canister (fx5) with it for mechanical. If someone could help with that I would be greatly appreciative of that.
As for the holes if I go with canisters they will predrill them on the top for me. In regards to 1/2 to 3/4 its quite a price jump, however since its 24" high and not 30" I was reassured it was perfectly fine.
This is great discussion and helps me do this right the first time.
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Personally I think a sump is the way to go, you get a lot more versatility. If you have a built in overflow, you could do a durso standpipe, and under the tank you could use flexible tubing to eliminate splashing noise. This would be very quiet. There are other options for overflows as well that get much more complicated, but are almost silent.
If you went this route, you wouldn't even need an fx5 for mechanical. I have almost the same size tank as you're getting (30" wide though) with only a sump. By putting filter socks on it, you can change them out very easily and maintenance is very minimal. This way you can have the submersible heater (I have 500w from Jehmco) and add UV in your return line.
No ugly intake tubes to look at, everything is hidden...
If you went this route, you wouldn't even need an fx5 for mechanical. I have almost the same size tank as you're getting (30" wide though) with only a sump. By putting filter socks on it, you can change them out very easily and maintenance is very minimal. This way you can have the submersible heater (I have 500w from Jehmco) and add UV in your return line.
No ugly intake tubes to look at, everything is hidden...
I understand and believe me I've done extensive reading on the subject. I also understand if I go this route I can probably come out cheaper. I just have to make it quieter than my current setup and I don't like this factory setup one. The water coming down and hitting a piece of blue padding and then falling thru bio-balls to be shot back up, just isn't doing I think. I would probably go with a 100 gallon and make my own.
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Well you gotta do what makes you comfortable, but I'll say this...
Before I got my 300, my largest tank was 36g with hob and canister. I had never seen a sump in person but did lots of reading and studying pics here. When I set mine up it worked awesome, I was a little surprised how easy it was to diy.
Mine is 10' away from me now in my living room, watching tv and no noise issues at all. I built a soundproof recording studio in my house, so I do know something about noise
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Before I got my 300, my largest tank was 36g with hob and canister. I had never seen a sump in person but did lots of reading and studying pics here. When I set mine up it worked awesome, I was a little surprised how easy it was to diy.
Mine is 10' away from me now in my living room, watching tv and no noise issues at all. I built a soundproof recording studio in my house, so I do know something about noise
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Well you gotta do what makes you comfortable, but I'll say this...
Before I got my 300, my largest tank was 36g with hob and canister. I had never seen a sump in person but did lots of reading and studying pics here. When I set mine up it worked awesome, I was a little surprised how easy it was to diy.
Mine is 10' away from me now in my living room, watching tv and no noise issues at all. I built a soundproof recording studio in my house, so I do know something about noise
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The one I had on my 180 was a 55 diy I did with socks and baffles. The problem was my baffles fell down then it just became a 55 with socks on one end and a pump returning on the other side.
I think it was because I tried to silicone plastic baffles in a glass tank. Ill just have to think about it and I could find a used tank off Craigslist to make one from. I have a mag 12 on my current 220 sump and have it on a ball valve because at full strength my hang on overflow can't keep up.
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