375g in wall build

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Epoxy painted the floor and now it's totally waterproof :) Very happy with that. I wanted to build the stand today, but there just wasn't enough time... There is always next weekend, I guess. At least I have the wood.
 
Stand built and in place. There will be a few more vertical supports, but the hard part is done. My level is off by about 1/8" front to back, so I'll start with sanding to see how well I can minimize that. I'll also try sanding the plywood sheet that will be on top. Then of course, I can always try to level it with the foam that will be under the tank.

Anyway, pics later (I'm at work now). No idea who is following this still, but I'm working on it.

I also decided to build my own sump from scratch. I'm going to buy the acrylic sheets and see what I can do with 1/2" cell cast. Who knows, might get really ugly and be a total waste of money, but in the end, it's a sump, so I have creative license to be messy.
 
As long as you have a table saw and router table, (and know how to use them) you should be fine building a sump out of acrylic. Are you going to use Weld-On 16 or Solvent for jointing the acrylic? I just build 2 sumps out of some free 1/2" polycarbonate sheets I got and a wet/dry bio-tower out of 1/4" acrylic.
 
In tracking down the best source for sheets of cell cast, I may have come across someone who wants to build it. We'll see!

If that doesn't pan out, I'll go with weld on 4 for seams. 16 should be used for patches and repairs. It requires a lot longer cure time than 4.
 
Clay;4704282; said:
In tracking down the best source for sheets of cell cast, I may have come across someone who wants to build it. We'll see!

If that doesn't pan out, I'll go with weld on 4 for seams. 16 should be used for patches and repairs. It requires a lot longer cure time than 4.
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I'm not sure where you're getting your info from. Weld on #4 and #16 both require a couple of days to fully cure, sometimes more depending on the application and environment. Both harden beyond workability in a matter of minutes. Weld on #16 is excellent for seams if you can apply it cleanly, but it does tend to goop and string. Using weld on #4 for seams works well but your seams have to be PERFECT, and I mean that. The last tank I built with 3/4 acrylic and weld on #4 I sanded all the seams with an aluminum block and 100 grit sandpaper before joining.

Google the "pin method" of joining acrylic <- I've had by far the best results that way. The first sump I made with 1/2" acrylic failed at one of the seams because I bought into the "just put the seams together and apply weld on #4 so it wicks in".
 
cvermeulen;4705208; said:
I'm not sure where you're getting your info from. Weld on #4 and #16 both require a couple of days to fully cure, sometimes more depending on the application and environment. Both harden beyond workability in a matter of minutes. Weld on #16 is excellent for seams if you can apply it cleanly, but it does tend to goop and string. Using weld on #4 for seams works well but your seams have to be PERFECT, and I mean that. The last tank I built with 3/4 acrylic and weld on #4 I sanded all the seams with an aluminum block and 100 grit sandpaper before joining.

Google the "pin method" of joining acrylic <- I've had by far the best results that way. The first sump I made with 1/2" acrylic failed at one of the seams because I bought into the "just put the seams together and apply weld on #4 so it wicks in".
Click to expand...

i used weld on 4 for my 90 didnt do any sanding or anything to the edges and its holding water find.
 
...I'm guessing your doing a marine set up judging on a post of the store you were talking about. I'm curious on what will you be stocking it....reef or fowlr....or of coarse the dark side...freshwater. Also if u don't mind how much was the tank from that company is it decent? As someone else also posted I think.
 
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