530g Tank Setup and Plumbing Help :)

[nzafi]

Well now that I am ready to start the fun, I decided to create a new thread dedicated to my tank setup. I will give the background again, but really need helping with the plumbing so all experts please share your wisdom!

Tank
- Acrylic tank from fishtankdirect.com but built by Suncoast Aquariums which is a "sister" company essentially.
- The tank will be 94in x 48in x 30in (high)
- Tank is due to arrive some time next week but here are some pics they sent me. It has been great dealing with these guys so far.
- I will be getting a steal stand courtesy of fellow MFKer jsodwi who has also awesome and tolerate of my many messages and texts
- The plan is to go bare bottom to minimize maintenance. I will mostly likely paint the bottom black


Filtration
- Two corner 9in HMF filters run via powehead (essentially backup filtration plus to help hide equipment)
- Ultima II 1,000 w/ reeflo gold super dart (essentially primary filtration but really wanted it for backflush capabilities)
- The HMF will be running at about 1500 gph (3 times turnover) and the ultima will be around 1,000 gph giving me 2,500 gph / 5 times turnover
- Internal to the tank, I am adding eductors to the ultima lines via the loc lines. The eductors increase flow up to 4x which means I will be getting about 4,000 gph (keep in mind this is just in tank flow and does not impact turnover through the filter)
- Cold water drip running about 50g a day

Inhabitants
- Single 15-16in aimara wolf fish, but hope to maybe add something else one day

Plumbing
- I am doing a mix of sch 40 in black and sch 80 in gray. The tank is in my family room, and I was thinking of leaving the stand exposed because it can give an awesome wow factor. However, that means I want it to look extremely clean.
- I needed to go with sch 80 plumbing for all elbows, Tees, ball valves, etc because you cannot get sch 40 in black
- Drawings are not to scale nor accurate via sizing, but focused on identifying where I am running valves, elbows, tees, etc.
Here is where I need help!!! JK47 mrrobxc . Below are pics of drawings of all my planned plumbing. I have laid this out so others that are as bad with their hands can see my logic and maybe learn. I also have some really important questions that I would like to get answered.
1) What pvc cement should I get (are there colored versions that go better with black/gray plumbing). I am planning on using pipe thread sealant on the reeflo pump
2) JK47 - When connecting plumbing to the reeflo so I use a spigot x male thread connector? You used a nipple that you did not recommend. The spigot I am assuming I can connect to the union direct and the male thread to the pump
3) Does it matter where I put the Tee or Cross for splitting lines? I planned on putting them as close to the tank as possible
4) If I use ball valves do I need unions? Looks like the ball valves act as unions also? I am planning on using lots of unions which you will see in my drawings but not sure they are needed by the ball valves.
5) When I cut pvc, do I need to sand it? Is there a best way to cut it?
6) Do I need to support parallel lines of pvc? I am assuming yes.

Here are the pics. I have already ordered a ton of PVC but need to order the rest. I am ordering everything from bulkreefsupply essentially as their prices aren't bad and they allow for free returns. This way I just order a ton. Please feel free to ask questions, or provide any feedback.

 

[JK47]

This is a lot to digest in one post. I’ll do my best.

Drip system - 50 gallons per day IMO is overkill for a single wolf. 1 GPH hour would probably be sufficient and would put less work on the heaters ($$$)

1. I prefer clear when working with schedule 80. I use clear primer and clear cement. I feel it important to use primer with furniture grade pvc.
2. You can use a spigot x MPT to connect if you like. I usually use a standard MPT x female slip. I did the last one with a nipple to customize the plumbing height. An OCD thing that isn’t necessary.
3. I prefer to run 1.5” diameter pipe to as close to the returns as possible if up the back or over the top. If up and through the overflow tower it can be done under the top of the stand.
4. Union ball valves and unions serve a similar purpose but one allows you stop flow as well as remove. I find unions still necessary at certain places. Try and think of how many pieces you plumbing should come apart into. Work backwards from there. USE UNION BALL VALVES ON THE PUMP IN/OUT. Trust me on this.
5. One of the best investments one can make in this hobby is a quality pipe cutter. See below pic. I will not touch a tank without one. I do not sand but I do deburr the edge with a razor or knife.
6. Yes support long lengths of horizontal plumbing. Nylon straps are cheap and work great.

Would you like me to post my current build for you to get some ideas? All schedule 80 and black furniture grade PVC as well. Most from BRS like yours. Same reasoning as yours too. I have to look at it so it best be looking clean. I feel ya

 

[marsh1n]

With regards to the PVC cutting, I recommend the following:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...ss-PVC-Pipe-Shear-Tool-Only-2470-20/202196528

It is a bit expensive, but I think it's worth it. It will cut any pvc in less than 3 seconds. I had a lot of 2 inch pvc on my system and this tool made cutting pvc a snap.

 

[nzafi]

I’ve put comments next to yours. Thanks for the feedback and you did awesome answering all my questions. Do you ever bother with a clear sight window for the back flush line? How’d you do that and where do you put it?

This is a lot to digest in one post. I’ll do my best.

Drip system - 50 gallons per day IMO is overkill for a single wolf. 1 GPH hour would probably be sufficient and would put less work on the heaters ($$$)

1. I prefer clear when working with schedule 80. I use clear primer and clear cement. I feel it important to use primer with furniture grade pvc. - thanks, is BRS furniture grade? I was looking at gorilla pvc cement which is primer and cement in one.
2. You can use a spigot x MPT to connect if you like. I usually use a standard MPT x female slip. I did the last one with a nipple to customize the plumbing height. An OCD thing that isn’t necessary. - not sure why but BRS only has the spigot x MPT and figured it should fit into the ball valve/union regardless.
3. I prefer to run 1.5” diameter pipe to as close to the returns as possible if up the back or over the top. If up and through the overflow tower it can be done under the top of the stand. - I’ll see if I can do this, will need to reorder a lot of stuff. I was trying to put the tank as close to the wall hence going with 3/4in
4. Union ball valves and unions serve a similar purpose but one allows you stop flow as well as remove. I find unions still necessary at certain places. Try and think of how many pieces you plumbing should come apart into. Work backwards from there. USE UNION BALL VALVES ON THE PUMP IN/OUT. Trust me on this. - will change for this!!
5. One of the best investments one can make in this hobby is a quality pipe cutter. See below pic. I will not touch a tank without one. I do not sand but I do deburr the edge with a razor or knife.
6. Yes support long lengths of horizontal plumbing. Nylon straps are cheap and work great.

Would you like me to post my current build for you to get some ideas? All schedule 80 and black furniture grade PVC as well. Most from BRS like yours. Same reasoning as yours too. I have to look at it so it best be looking clean. I feel ya

View attachment 1318603

 

[JK47]

I’ve put comments next to yours. Thanks for the feedback and you did awesome answering all my questions. Do you ever bother with a clear sight window for the back flush line? How’d you do that and where do you put it?

Hayward sight glass are awesome! I do prefer to use them and mount them a couple inches from the backwash union. This is the one I’m referring to.

Hayward SP1072S In-line Backwash Sight Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032GB6B6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8magBb0XF0EPG

 

[nzafi]

Hayward sight glass are awesome! I do prefer to use them and mount them a couple inches from the backwash union. This is the one I’m referring to.

Hayward SP1072S In-line Backwash Sight Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032GB6B6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8magBb0XF0EPG

Is that rigid model 152 you are using to cut pvc? Like it? Busy researching pvc cutters and amazing how crappy most are. I thought I read you can’t use that version on schedule 40 pvc.

 

[JK47]

Is that rigid model 152 you are using to cut pvc? Like it? Busy researching pvc cutters and amazing how crappy most are. I thought I read you can’t use that version on schedule 40 pvc.

Not sure on the model # but yes it is a rigid. That same unit has cut hundreds of linear feet of schedule 40. Cuts is smooth, clean edge and only a couple seconds to cut.

 

[nzafi]

JK47 Do you really think the 3/4in pvc for the returns would be a problem? I typically I would love to run the 1.5in all the way to the returns, but I need this tank as close to the wall as possible. The 1.5in pvc will cause me to lose an extra 1-1.5in. Enough that I worry about it. When I was looking at flow charts 3/4in pvc can allow for 1,410gph under medium flow and up to 2,160 gph under high flow. That means I can run 4,200gph with my 3 returns when I am really only aiming to push 1,000gph through the 3 returns.

 

[nzafi]

Btw, that is a model 152 because I zoomed into the image and saw a 152 imprinted on the side, just not the rigid brand.

 

[JK47]

JK47 Do you really think the 3/4in pvc for the returns would be a problem? I typically I would love to run the 1.5in all the way to the returns, but I need this tank as close to the wall as possible. The 1.5in pvc will cause me to lose an extra 1-1.5in. Enough that I worry about it. When I was looking at flow charts 3/4in pvc can allow for 1,410gph under medium flow and up to 2,160 gph under high flow. That means I can run 4,200gph with my 3 returns when I am really only aiming to push 1,000gph through the 3 returns.

You're fine with 3/4". I've done both and have no complaints. Totally agree on distance from the wall though, that has always been a pet peeve for me as well.