55 gal sump design

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

kainester

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Jan 14, 2011
61
0
36
dallas
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The sump is 48" L x 12" W x 21" Tall. Need help in getting the sheet cut to the correct sizes. How tall should I cut pieces A,B,C,D and E. Also how far should I place sheet A from the end of the tank and spacing between sheet B and C. Do I need a baffle? Should just get rid of sheet D and E and have the water flow over only C into the 3rd compartment? Sorry for all the questions but first time builder and want to do it right the first time. Help is really appreciated.

Sump.jpg
 
I see alot of wasted space with having the wet/dry and media apart.. you should have a mechanical filtration chamber, and let that trickle into a wetdry and under the wetdry heaters and media..

Here is a shot of my 55g sump i just finished.

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photo-52.jpg


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I see alot of wasted space with having the wet/dry and media apart.. you should have a mechanical filtration chamber, and let that trickle into a wetdry and under the wetdry heaters and media..

Here is a shot of my 55g sump i just finished.

photo-58.jpg


photo-52.jpg

Thats bad ass... I had the same idea about adding a T for a return of water over the Bio:headbang2
I purchased the Valves last week, just need to go and order some cut acrylic to make a drip tray with 2" walls (so 100% of the water flows through the tray). I'm stuck on using it for unused BioBalls or buying a roll of Jap Mats for extra Mechanical.
Ill decide once I get the Drip Tray since my focus is setting up the new Sump

Nice DIY sump bud, Ive searched a few on MFK and that's one I like :)
 
thanks alot! im currently dealing with a little bit of a bubble issue in the filter socks, but its prob because its new water, cold water (finally started running heaters today), and im maxing out the overflows for sure using the mag18. but its nothing bad..

as far as media under the wetdry.. i have plenty of room for more, and ordered a couple more media bags, im gonna stack it all differently but for now i just put some in there to see what i was working with as far as space.

the only serious recomendation i would make to this sump, is not using the aga megaflow bulkheads with the barbed fitting (they suck when it comes to plumbing them) and also having the water line lower in the first chamber.. the filter socks bubble significantly less when elevated out of the water.. i would ideally come down about 2-3 inches in the first chamber, give up an inch of wetdry and another inch of submersed media under it. filter socks seems to work awsome, but they are deff a pain to get working well especially when the overflows are maxed out and the water line is so high in the sump.

also taking the trim off was useless.. the glass i ordered at first was cut to big.. it was their error.. i thought a strait shot in would help.. save your self the time and time.. and time.. and also time.. and leave the trim alone, if glass is cut currectly it will slide and twist right into place.

My glass was cut at 11 7/8th the tank measure about 12inch wide.. 11 15/16th was EXTREMELY tight and i noticed the glass on the 55g is not even silicones perfectly strait.. no use in working with manufactor error when silicone will do an outstanding job holding the glass in place..

just lay down blue tape strips, give your self about .75inch on each side of silicone room, peel after silicone has set for an hour.. i didnt do this and regret it..

as far as cost..

55g $55 dollars

4 glass baffles, 2 1inch glass strips to hold drip tray and lexan drip tray was 45 dollars.. i shopped the hell outa that order, i got prices from 200 to 150 to 80 to 45 =) SO SHOP IT!!!!!

mag18 130

bio media was like 40

seachem pond matrix was cheap too for the bucket like 15 or 20


the ball valves are absolutely useless.... this was my first sump and drilled tank.. i will never waste the money again on ball valves inline.. the gate valve is deff a must.. but honestly i would consider using one ball valve in the shorter section of return plumbing if you have dual outputs to possibly equal out the flow.. once again i havnt had the need to regulate this.. the flow is unequal but both strong.

even if your changing filter socks, you have to turn the sump off because if i close one valve the sump quickly runs dry.. everything has to be shut down..
 
the filter socks bubble significantly less when elevated out of the water.. i would ideally come down about 2-3 inches in the first chamber, give up an inch of wetdry and another inch of submersed media under it.

Yes they do... I think they last longer above water a couple inches vs even w/the water surface... lots of water overflow and this defeats the purpose of having the water run through the socks Lol.
On the other hand, longer would mean dirty socks so its a catch22 haha.

My Sump's 2 chambers are similar to yours w/the 1st sock chamber just over flowing to the Wet/Dry area... I noticed the first chamber gets full of tiny debre... I think I will be adding an air stone or something to the new Sump to get that crap moving and filtered
 
i have 3 hydro sponges to put in the bottom of the first chamber.. i wanna keep em there to cycle a qt tank or whatever, and also to create some movement at the bottom of chamber 1.. i feel like tearing my sump apart, the overflow from the socks is anoying
 
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