To control my Spg I built a auto top off. I use a float swith and a pump to pump rodi water in the aquarium when it evaps down. I also added a Tunze Kalk osmolator but that another conversation. It cost me like 50 bucks to build it. Works great and spc is always the same! By the way T-5's ho with parabolic reflectors would work great! MH may cause to much heat and then you would need a chiller. No fun!
65 stocking???
- Thread starter sweeTang21
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As far as wc's I use a 32 gallon brute with a MAG 9.5 to mix and deliver the water to the tank via a hose. I have a heater small air pump and Mag 9.5 in the brute. I add rodi water then salt let it mix for a day or so so that it is the same temp and close ph to my tank then I do my Wc out of the sump. I leave the power heads and lights on I just take a turkey baster blow all the ditrius off of the rocks let it run for a min so that the ditrius make sit to the sump amd I shut off the return pump and drain the sump then add the new water to it turn the return pump on. No exposed corals and nobody in the tank is the wiser.
i suppose that would be a good reason for me to get a sump lol. i like those ideas. i was basically thinkin bout just checking my salinity level like twice a day or so and makin adjustments as needed. by the sounds of things ill only need to ad straight rodi without salt because of evap. i suppose ill get good at it with bractice.
bigourami, the T-5 HO is like samller compact florecent without the wattage output. the one i have is as bright as a MH, just without the power behind it. my wpg rule is on the mark and my last problem is just mastering salinity control.
i have like 80 lbs of live sand for that 65 gallon. to me that sounds like a s*** ton. i wouldnt imagine that this is going to cause a prob, but it is better for the tank. how would you guys go about attaching the rock to eachother. the last thing i need is going through all this work and have rock bust throught the bottom or side of my tank!! i would S*** myself lol. also, i add the base rock first and then the sand correct?? thanks again
bigourami, the T-5 HO is like samller compact florecent without the wattage output. the one i have is as bright as a MH, just without the power behind it. my wpg rule is on the mark and my last problem is just mastering salinity control.
i have like 80 lbs of live sand for that 65 gallon. to me that sounds like a s*** ton. i wouldnt imagine that this is going to cause a prob, but it is better for the tank. how would you guys go about attaching the rock to eachother. the last thing i need is going through all this work and have rock bust throught the bottom or side of my tank!! i would S*** myself lol. also, i add the base rock first and then the sand correct?? thanks again
Just build or buy a Auto top off for the salinity. Also please use a refractometer and not a hydro. I use a Refract and they are on the moeny accurate and the one I bought was only about 50 bucks. That's cheap my hydro was off .03 spg.
ATO system works great if you are not into diy stuff. http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium...ic_top_off_water_level_controller.asp?CartId=
Refractometer I use works great! http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=9957&rel=1
ATO system works great if you are not into diy stuff. http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium...ic_top_off_water_level_controller.asp?CartId=
Refractometer I use works great! http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=9957&rel=1
yeah i was consider using the refractometer. i saw them but i wasnt sure how good they are, but i got my answer lol. ill keep in mind for the auto top off system. ill try my luck and see how i do lol. if nothing else i contact ya again and we can talk more about it. thanks for the advice everybody!!
don't refractomerter have to be calibrated?
maybe that's why the hydrometer was off, but who cares.
yeah get the auto-top-off or just keep up with topping off on a 65 it shouldn't matter too much if a little water is lostwhat i usually do is replace the WC with lower salinity water,but i only do that cause i change water so frequently and i had practiced what SG to do weeks before i set it up for rock and fish.
maybe that's why the hydrometer was off, but who cares.
yeah get the auto-top-off or just keep up with topping off on a 65 it shouldn't matter too much if a little water is lostwhat i usually do is replace the WC with lower salinity water,but i only do that cause i change water so frequently and i had practiced what SG to do weeks before i set it up for rock and fish.
yeah, ive calibrated a ton of those, but like i said i dont know if their any good. i have a cheaper digital pH reader and that is calibrated using 7.0 and 10.0 keep doing it until reads exact with no changing. lol. i find it fun to be honest with ya. neways i think ill just top it off. im not expecting that much evap. because the halides will only be on for 8hrs. T-5 for probably 10-12!! anyways thanks again. ill keep everybody posted with updates and if i can get my camera workin, maybe some photos too. i know how you all love the pics lol. have a good night.
i would use the 20g tank as a sump and lose the canister filter, unless you just use it for carbon. use a simple filter sock in the sump to filter all the water draining down, then get a large submersible pump, or two to bring the water back up to the display tank. this would be a more reef friendly set-up, and increase your water volume. you could also keep an area of the sump for a deep sand bed with caulerpa. that would help with the pods, so that when you do eventually get the mandarin, he'd have a better chance of survival. a bigger skimmer might also be a good idea.
