At this point I don't think meds willake matters worse. I would dose.
:-(
- Thread starter yargnits
- Start date
I get that you don't like adding something to the tank and I felt the same the first time I used Fluke solve. I crapped myself thinking I was about to kill all my rays but I held tight and dosed. The effect was amazing and after a week or so everything was back to normal. I used it as one of my females stopped eating following some serious breeding attempts.
Are the rays that are not eating female? Could it be that they are stressed from breeding attempts?
I have no idea why your aro is the way it is, but if you do nothing to help the rays then you could lose them and even if they are not stressed from breeding then they certainly sound stressed due to what ever else has been wrong with the tank mate. Up to you each to their own but I would want to do something and I can vouch for how good fluke solve is.
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that a ray that is 3 to 4 years old should be way bigger than 6" unless its a Hystrix/Mini marble etc?
This is a link for the stuff I use and I know of many other experienced keepers that use the same stuff. Has no adverse effect on fish or filtration. But as a VERY experienced keeper once told me. Only the owner can actually se the fish in their own tank and make the call as to what should be done for the best.
Best of luck with what ever you decide mate.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8...targid=kwd-25488867160&ref=pd_sl_2s1erybkbe_e
Are the rays that are not eating female? Could it be that they are stressed from breeding attempts?
I have no idea why your aro is the way it is, but if you do nothing to help the rays then you could lose them and even if they are not stressed from breeding then they certainly sound stressed due to what ever else has been wrong with the tank mate. Up to you each to their own but I would want to do something and I can vouch for how good fluke solve is.
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that a ray that is 3 to 4 years old should be way bigger than 6" unless its a Hystrix/Mini marble etc?
This is a link for the stuff I use and I know of many other experienced keepers that use the same stuff. Has no adverse effect on fish or filtration. But as a VERY experienced keeper once told me. Only the owner can actually se the fish in their own tank and make the call as to what should be done for the best.
Best of luck with what ever you decide mate.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8...targid=kwd-25488867160&ref=pd_sl_2s1erybkbe_e
I get that you don't like adding something to the tank and I felt the same the first time I used Fluke solve. I crapped myself thinking I was about to kill all my rays but I held tight and dosed. The effect was amazing and after a week or so everything was back to normal. I used it as one of my females stopped eating following some serious breeding attempts.
Are the rays that are not eating female? Could it be that they are stressed from breeding attempts?
I have no idea why your aro is the way it is, but if you do nothing to help the rays then you could lose them and even if they are not stressed from breeding then they certainly sound stressed due to what ever else has been wrong with the tank mate. Up to you each to their own but I would want to do something and I can vouch for how good fluke solve is.
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that a ray that is 3 to 4 years old should be way bigger than 6" unless its a Hystrix/Mini marble etc?
This is a link for the stuff I use and I know of many other experienced keepers that use the same stuff. Has no adverse effect on fish or filtration. But as a VERY experienced keeper once told me. Only the owner can actually se the fish in their own tank and make the call as to what should be done for the best.
Best of luck with what ever you decide mate.
Are the rays that are not eating female? Could it be that they are stressed from breeding attempts?
I have no idea why your aro is the way it is, but if you do nothing to help the rays then you could lose them and even if they are not stressed from breeding then they certainly sound stressed due to what ever else has been wrong with the tank mate. Up to you each to their own but I would want to do something and I can vouch for how good fluke solve is.
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that a ray that is 3 to 4 years old should be way bigger than 6" unless its a Hystrix/Mini marble etc?
This is a link for the stuff I use and I know of many other experienced keepers that use the same stuff. Has no adverse effect on fish or filtration. But as a VERY experienced keeper once told me. Only the owner can actually se the fish in their own tank and make the call as to what should be done for the best.
Best of luck with what ever you decide mate.
yargnits
.... i am very in experienced and petrified of meds but i agree with the guys.. just do it while there is still a chance!!!!Good luck.... holding thumbs that all goes well...
This is from a page in Dr. Ross's book "Freshwater Stingrays."
He says:
"When injectable antibiotics are not avaiable the most useful anitbiotic is nitrofurazone. This medication does not damage bacterial filters, and is regularly absorbed by the fish when added to the water. dosage is 250mg per 10 gallons. The treatment must be repeated every 3 to 4 days, because the drug breaks down in the water. When treating fish by adding antibiotics to the water, it is necessary to do a 50 percent water change between treatments."
I recommend this drug ALL of the time for stingrays with fungus, disc rot, ulcers, or necrosis. An old legend on here aceface, saved a colony of his worth about 15-20k USD in rare plecos that had cotton fungus and wasting. Didn't lose a single one. It's hard to source and expensive but it has a great place in any fish exotic fish keepers cabinet. Especially with scaleless and senitive fish not tolerating drugs many drugs.
NEVER GIVE A STINGRAY: malachite green, copper OR ivermectin,
Methylene blue, mentioned in the original post is a very unique and interesting drug. It's been used for years in livestock and humans, was a malaria treatment. It stains cells, our cells survive but bacterial, protozoan, fungal and cells inside many parasites have inhibited function and lead to death.
The drug also increases oxygen saturation on a cellular level. Which can be very postive for the specimen being treated. I have seen arowana, with bag gill burn gasping for air, near death. After Methylene blue baths, it regained balance and posture and made a slow but full recovery. I attribute that turnaround to the oxygen saturation of tissues. It's not magical, but it's a useful drug as it's a broad spectrum. will damage bio.
I know you don't want to treat with drugs. I'm not trying to convince you to, I'm just giving you all of the information I know so you can make the best decision for your fish.
jim barry
said it perfect. Only the keeper will ultimately know what's best.
Good luck
He says:
"When injectable antibiotics are not avaiable the most useful anitbiotic is nitrofurazone. This medication does not damage bacterial filters, and is regularly absorbed by the fish when added to the water. dosage is 250mg per 10 gallons. The treatment must be repeated every 3 to 4 days, because the drug breaks down in the water. When treating fish by adding antibiotics to the water, it is necessary to do a 50 percent water change between treatments."
I recommend this drug ALL of the time for stingrays with fungus, disc rot, ulcers, or necrosis. An old legend on here aceface, saved a colony of his worth about 15-20k USD in rare plecos that had cotton fungus and wasting. Didn't lose a single one. It's hard to source and expensive but it has a great place in any fish exotic fish keepers cabinet. Especially with scaleless and senitive fish not tolerating drugs many drugs.
NEVER GIVE A STINGRAY: malachite green, copper OR ivermectin,
Methylene blue, mentioned in the original post is a very unique and interesting drug. It's been used for years in livestock and humans, was a malaria treatment. It stains cells, our cells survive but bacterial, protozoan, fungal and cells inside many parasites have inhibited function and lead to death.
The drug also increases oxygen saturation on a cellular level. Which can be very postive for the specimen being treated. I have seen arowana, with bag gill burn gasping for air, near death. After Methylene blue baths, it regained balance and posture and made a slow but full recovery. I attribute that turnaround to the oxygen saturation of tissues. It's not magical, but it's a useful drug as it's a broad spectrum. will damage bio.
I know you don't want to treat with drugs. I'm not trying to convince you to, I'm just giving you all of the information I know so you can make the best decision for your fish.
jim barry
said it perfect. Only the keeper will ultimately know what's best. Good luck
API makes Furon2 and it works amazing it saved my 24inch Umbee from columnaris which is a very fast and deadly bacteria.
I swear by prazipro/fluke solve also.
When my 12 inch female stopped eating for 3 weeks I also refused to medicate because I thought it would make matters worse. My local ray keeper buddies urged me to dose. After 3 days she started freaking out , flying and crashing into the sides of the tank and cloaking the airstone for oxygen. I thought great look what the meds have done and thought she would die from it. My buddies told me to hang on and leave the med in the tank for the full cycle. Guess what the next day day 4 she was pounding worms like no tomorrow!!!! Prazipro saved her.
I swear by prazipro/fluke solve also.
When my 12 inch female stopped eating for 3 weeks I also refused to medicate because I thought it would make matters worse. My local ray keeper buddies urged me to dose. After 3 days she started freaking out , flying and crashing into the sides of the tank and cloaking the airstone for oxygen. I thought great look what the meds have done and thought she would die from it. My buddies told me to hang on and leave the med in the tank for the full cycle. Guess what the next day day 4 she was pounding worms like no tomorrow!!!! Prazipro saved her.
Yes. It's available at nationalfishpharm.com in the pure form. The only other pure form I knew was Jungle Labs Binox (They added a little table salt also) but they retired it years ago. I have to mention that nitrofurazone has been found to cause mammary cancer in labratory animals/mammals so don't breathe the powder or ingest. Limit exposure. This may be why binox was retired..? hmmm potential liability. I'm unsure.
Furan 2 like my buddy
CANAMONSTER
mentioned contains it. It also contains Furazolidone as the second compound. Rays seem (I've been told someone confirm?) to tolerate Furazolidone but it is harder on the biological filter, so this compound will risk mini cycles more than straight nitrofurazone. Furan-2 is faster acting as it has 2 drugs supplementing action. Praziquantel is the active ingredient in flukesolve and prazipro. Very safe for fish and filtration. Works great on tapesworms and various flukes. It has a side effect that I have documented and want to encourage discussion on. It greatly increases appetite. I've used it on skinny rays that I knew weren't infested, they were just neglected by previous owner, in captivity for years clearly no parasites. The ramp in hunger is undeniable. It's hard endorse for this, as many would find the application irresponsible, but I have used it on fish I just coudn't get to eat. Desperate times, desperate measures.
Acriflavin is mentioned in the post above with the excerpt from Dr. Ross's book. The book is somewhat older and new studies about this compound have been done. It should be mentioned: Acriflavin and related compounds have been linked to infertility in some fishes in studies. So use that medication only in crisis on stingrays or if you do not wish to breed them. From what I've read it won't instantly chemically castrate them. But it can negatively impact the function of reproductive organs and impact overall fertility especially in developing juveniles and older individuals.
