i have no expeirence with snakes but from what i have read the range will average around 75-95 i like to use discretion with what i read for reptiles in regaurds to temps and ill will keep the cool side a wii bit up so like 78 is what i would start with and the hot side 85-88 instead of 95 and monitor behavior and adjust temps until the snake seems to be at a comfortable state...thats what i do with my torts i dont know how snakes react to a fewdays of constant heat adjusments... take note that all reptiles are different as far as what temps they feel their best in but their are general species rule like 75-95 you just work with the snake to find at what temps the snake is optimum...thats my two cents
75 to 90 degrees
- Thread starter large_cichlids
- Start date
walls;1208461; said:
You be surprised how "dumb" they can be. If there's hide on the cool end of the tank that a ball python prefers over a hide on the warm side, they'll choose security over warmth. And if they get "cold", they might not seek out warmer temps immediately to avoid illness.
Also along those lines, I've been having an issue with one of my breeder females that just won't drink enough water. She's been passing HUGE, hardened urates that require me to manually break them up inside of her in order to expel them. The reason for this is dehydration. For some reason, she just won't drink like she should.
However you care for them, its the keepers responsibility to have an eye for these things and take care of 'issues' before they become 'problems.' That goes for temps, feeding, everything.
Just a thought, but maybe the temp isn't your problem. Was this snake wild caught or captive bred? If captive bred, did you get it from a reputable breeder, or somewhere like petsmart? A lot of petstore herps can be loaded with parasites, which could cause the herp to puke up its last meal.
Also, some ball pythons are "farmed", where a pregnant female is captured to lay her eggs, then those eggs hatched and sold, which means some of the babies could harbor parasites.
fishlvr;1210292; said:
You know, believe it or not, Captive Hatched ball pythons can be surprisingly clean and do well in captivity. It ultimately depends upon the source of those CH animals, however.
For example, snake mites are not indiginous to Africa - so any of those CH or WC ball pythons that come in with them, got them from animals they were mixed in with AFTER the exporter in Africa packed them up and sent them over here.
So, there are 'good' importers and 'bad' importers. Good importers insure that their import shipments don't get mixed up with other things and rehydrate their shipments before wholesaling them out to pet stores or other dealers. Bad importers do exactly the opposite and continue to give CH imports a bad rep.
The problem is, unless you buy direct from the importer, you never know exactly what you are getting or where it has been. Which leads me to my next point: BUY CAPTIVE BRED!
The problem isnt parasites with imported animals. Ill try to explain it as simply as possible.
Stress is soemthing that comes about in captivity no matter what. Stress weakens the immune system. Wild animals are packed with parasites and bacteria that help with digestion, etc. When these parasites are left unchecked (when stress levels go up) it can be a problem. When people buy imports (mostly idiots with no idea of proper care) the horrible conditions let the parasites dominate. If you get a healthy import (yes, they exist.) and keep it healthy, youre fine.
Anyway, BUY CAPTIVE BRED!
Stress is soemthing that comes about in captivity no matter what. Stress weakens the immune system. Wild animals are packed with parasites and bacteria that help with digestion, etc. When these parasites are left unchecked (when stress levels go up) it can be a problem. When people buy imports (mostly idiots with no idea of proper care) the horrible conditions let the parasites dominate. If you get a healthy import (yes, they exist.) and keep it healthy, youre fine.
Anyway, BUY CAPTIVE BRED!
elevatethis;1210014; said:
I have had Boa's and Burm's for over 20 years and have never had a problem with them NOT self regulating thier temperature.........of course they by nature are nearly as "skittish" as BP's so I fully get your point.
