8ft clown Loach community tank planning & lowest leak chance

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Cardeater

Polypterus
MFK Member
Apr 14, 2018
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Background:
I'm in the planning stages of a tank upgrade. I currently have a 125g glass tank that I figure is a ticking time bomb. I plan to save money over the next year to get this as I already figure this is gonna cost $6-7k+. I'd like to have things figured out for this tank so in case the current tank somehow leaks or the seals start to look bad, I'd be ready to go. (I'd rather budget for this over a year but I'd just spend the money in an emergency).

Where my tank now could fit an 8" tank. I'd go 24-30" wide 24-30" tall. It's right next to a kitchen sink (it's in dining room area next to the kitchen that has a half wall dividing it from the kitchen, with the sink there). A drain and water supply are easily accessible.

As leak proof as possible:
If I had this in a garage, I'd consider taking a bigger risk on leakage by going used or buying a glass tank. I live in a condo so I want to minimize tank leakage risk as much as possible. My initial questions revolve around this topic. I've put them in bold so people can just jump to them and skip my discussion.


Obviously my first step is that I'm commiting to an acrylic tank. Ive read they are less likely to leak and I don't want to deal worry about silicone life (I understand that my 20 year tank silcone as lasted unusually long).

I'd get the tank new and I'll likely just get in professionally installed. I'm thinking this might limit me as the places I've found seem to sell tanks as well but I don't want to deal with moving it in and leveling it myself.

My flooring in this building seems to be concrete but I'd have to research this more to make sure the floor can handle the weight.


Filtration leak risk order:
I've read a bunch of threads on filtration. I think pure powerhead and air run sponge filters would probably be lowest risk of leakage. Adding hang on backs would probably be super low risk as well.

I'm axed out cannisters like the FX-6. I know I'd be lax on cleaning them and I've seen stories of people having leaks or hoses coming loose. I know i wouldn' be meticulous enough to check seals and replace them. I wouldnt be observant enough to tell when failure might be imminent.

I'd consider something like the Ultima 1000 that's like $540. The pump I've seen recommended for the Ultima 2000 is $350 or so. That wouldn't be that much more than 2xFX6 and would be easier to maintain.

A sump sounds cool but if I'm going with a new one not DIY, that seems like it'll cost around same as the Ultima system or more? I've seen ready made ones for $750 that were only 50 gallon capacity but they had dividers for skimmers and refugiums, which I don't need. Threads have recommended 75-125 sumps which are gonna cost even more


I do like the low maintenance of back flushing the Ultima. Changing out filter socks doesn't seem that bad though on a sump. I want to have a drip system and/or auto top off (not sure if I completely understand these systems). I just know that I don't pay extra for water so large water changes with backflushing on the Ultima
and/or dripping in a large amount into a sump would be great.

With a sump, I like the extra water volume and I can use the media I have plus an almost full, unused box of Substrat Pro I have. I'd also order a gallon of pond matrix to start.

Anyway, how much more risk of leakage is there for a sump vs Ultima system vs HOBs & sponges?

Peninsula overflow?:
I read a little about this but all the threads I've found on forums are about saltwater setups.

I like giving clown Loaches flow and my current system has powerheads to help with this.

Would a peninsula overflow on one end be good for creating a one way current for clown Loaches. On loaches.com they talk about river manifolds but I don't want to try that.

It seems that have powerheads pushing water to the other end overflow would work better than having two corner overflows?

Finally, this tank should fit through a standard door, right?

Thanks for any insight or advice.
 
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Well I can't help you much but I did notice you said you were gonna get it professionally installed. Most companies won't even touch a fish tank because of the chances of it leaking after being moved then getting sued by them. If I was you I'd look at piano movers or pool table movers because they're used to large things. Or get at case or two of beer and invite a couple friends over to help move it. Get some of those large suction cups to help. Move the tank before drinking the beer or it will never get moved lol.
 
Correctly designed and installed a sump be won’t leak risk anymore then any other filter. Drips and auto top offs can be hard to get bomb proof but again if correctly designed should not cause spills.
 
First off I like your ideas. It sound like you really want to set up your tank right.

Second I think your over worrying and over complicating it. Acrylic tanks are really nice and I’d definitely spring for one if you have the coin but a good glass tank is just as good. For filters I’d recommend canisters as they are very convenient and I trust those more over a hob as far as leaks go and power failure goes. Hobs rarely start back up after power loss. As far as a sump goes if properly set up you will have less of a risk of flooding your condo. But my last suggestion would be to hard plumb a drain and water supply over to your tank. This will make life so much easier for maintaining the tank in the long run.
 
I'm in almost the same exact situation. I have a 125 gal acrylic and am looking at an 8 foot tank for my loaches. All my tanks >10 gal are acrylic. The only tank failure I've had was with a 10 gal glass tank.

If your condo doesn't have concrete floors then things could get tricky with a tank that size.

The safest filtration system is the one that doesn't transport water outside the tank. That would be sponge and integrated trickle filters. I'm not sure sponge filters would be the best choice for a large tank and integrated trickle (wet/dry) filters are a real PITA (I have one).

Canister filters have multiple points of failure and unless you drill a siphon break in the input tube, can drain most of your tank. They're tedious to clean and reduce dissolved oxygen levels.

A properly setup sump should be almost as safe as an integrated wet/dry. It would add dissolved oxygen, be quick to clean, and a convenient place to locate heaters. Reef sumps are complex so freshwater sumps should be cheaper.

I'm also leaning towards having someone else move it into place, probably a professional aquarium setup company. If you have the aquarium shipped to the freight depot you can save a lot on shipping costs vs. curbside delivery (useless if you can't move it in yourself anyway). Then you take the money you saved and use it to partially pay the movers to pick it up from the depot and set it up in your home.

I was originally working with Midwest Custom but they don't have colored acrylic in the thicknesses required for a 8' tank. It exists but they don't have it. Instead, they simply paint the back of the tank. That may be acceptable for a tank I got at a garage sale but not a new $3,000+ tank. So now I'm probably going to go with Envision acrylics...
 
I have the same concern as you have, as I have two big show tanks in my living area, a 125 in my living room and a 75 in my foyer. I don’t worry about leaking in my basement tanks, but I constantly worry about waking up or returning home to find 200 gal water in my living area. So why not have them in the basement? I consider my show tanks my personal pieces of living art that can only be appreciated in my living area, not to be hidden in my basement cave. So I have to do my best to minimize leak that I can control.

Here are a few things I will avoid.

Do not buy used tanks you don’t know the history. Even if the tank is tested tight at seller place, the moving can damage the seam.

Do not substitute stand that is not made for the tank as a bad foundation can lead to leak.

Do not run any filters that have external plumbing. This will eliminate all canisters due to external hoses, O rings and clamps that can come off or develop leak. A sump system with over flow box and hoses are likewise vulnerable. A sump system with hard plumbing is safer. Cartridge style HOBs are safe as there is no external plumbing. But you need multiple HOBs to filter a big tank (I use 3 Penguin 350 for my 125). Power head driven foam filters or internal filters are safe. Air driven foam filters are safe if you install check valves in all air hoses. Don’t underestimate that a tiny air hose fallen off can drain your tank over your vacation.

With all preventive measures I can control, the silicone seams of glass tanks can still develop leak over time beyond my control. So far I have only one spontaneous seam leak in my 10 gal and I blamed it on the thin glass. I have two 75 gal over 20 years old still holding water, and dont know if silicone seam has expiration date.

I have no experience with acrylic tanks but all large big tanks in public aquarium are acrylic so they must be safer.
 
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