A little help with new 400

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I would use all 3 holes as drains and drill addition ones on the back wall for your returns.
 
Mu first question is what turnover rate are you shooting for

That is a good question and I typically try for ten - twelve times per hour. I haven't put any thought at all yet into equipment. I was actually in the middle of working on a new 180 when I came across this deal and grabbed it. Truth be told it is going to sit where it is empty until I get the new stand built so I guess I have some time.
 
Hnddog, here's a visual. The first picture where you see the bulkheads (in the overflow box) are the returns. I split the return with a "T", to have two loc-line returns. You'll want to consider how much room you need and have to work with in your overflow. I used a Herbie for drains, but added a third, dry stand-by; you can see three drains in the picture starting with the one on the right with a black strainer.

The second picture is just full shot of the tank with the loc-lines sticking out of the overflow box. I wanted to hide most of the plumbing in the peninsula so went with that.



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BTW, I think 10-12x is a bit excessive turnover, IMO. The limiting factor may be the volume that your overflow box will allow water to flow through as well. At the end of the day, it's your tank, but just something to think about if you want that turn-over.
 
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There are an infinite number of ways to plumb returns and overflow boxes. There is no right or wrong way. Each overflow box on our big tank has six holes. Two for draining and four for loc-line returns....that's 12 bulkheads at the bottom of our overflow boxes.

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When it comes to drilling additional holes in the tank, I prefer drilling the top of the tank and not the back or sides. We have had two bulkheads break on our 300 gallon tank, and we are glad the bulkheads were on the top of the tank and not the back.

Our big tank has 11 holes across the top of the tank for our mechanical filtration.
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