A quick game of frogger in the 750.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Nice yea the PraziPro should work great on the flukes. Did they say what kind by chance? Id guess Dactylogyrus (egg layers).

I believe there are two types egg layers and livebearers. If your already 4 weeks in you should be in good shape. With the eggs the Prazi wont impact them until they hatch. A lot of people get the adult flukes with the first run and stop because everyone starts behaving normally again.

But with these little buggers laying up to 20 eggs per hour if you don't follow up with a second and sometimes third treatment you can be right back to where you started pretty quick. After hatching the free swimming fluke can only survive for about 12 hours without attaching itself to a host.


With my P14 last spring I treated at the recommended dosage for 5-7 days.
Large water changes and gave him a few days to rest. Did another treatment cycle for 5-7 days. Water changes and rest again. Then a final week long treatment.
I ran a similar treatment on a leo I got this past Feb.

Its tough with the timing because while Prazi is very mild you don't want to stress the ray more but at the same time its key to catch the new ones that are hatching before they can lay more eggs. I have read about potential for the trematodes (flukes) building up a resistance to Prazi if you do it too often but I've never been able to find any documentation or first hand accounts.


That's awesome you got a bacterial medication recommendation the university tested and confirmed. Jehmco is a good spot to start but if they don't have what you need I think I have a bookmark saved on my home computer with a larger selection of meds for aquaculture treatment. I can post/send it to you if I can dig it up.


I've never talked to David W. before but I have learned a hell of a lot from reading over his posts over the past few years. If you've been able to get in touch with him I am sure he can give you tons of more good information. His postings about removing bad dissolved organics and other things via water changes are the main reason I stopped using my drip system a while back. With the food and waste amount of rays things build up exponentially faster than regular fish.


The UV, dosed properly should help keep the free floating parasite numbers in check. Flukes can be present in healthy rays but with stress or a decrease in water quality they seem to really take hold.


Keep me posted on how it goes, gradually cutting your water with RO can really allow you get some consistent numbers. Hopefully that all makes some sense Im typing kind of fast and didn't get a chance to proofread haha.
 
I did exactly what you described with Prazi. Treat a couple times, rays improve, then I quit. Not this time.... lol. Dose, wait 4 days, redoes, wait a few days, flush tank (1/4" drip line ran wide open) for a day or 2, couple days rest, repeat. Had to move all the K1 to bio towers rather then reactors to insure it stays wet and rolling instead of foam surfing and drying out.

Recommendations from the university were sulfadimethoxine/trimethoprim combo. Both found in Maracyn plus. Should be here tom or Friday from Jehmco.... :)

Dactylogyrus has been my hunch for a loooong time. I've inquired about it before, just no real proof to fuel this "hunch" till now.

Mr. Webber is a very wise man. And VERY VERY helpful. It's really too bad that people like this are ran off by our forum idiots that are allowed to stay pissing match after pissing match. We used to have people like him, care takers for the rays at the Shedd aquarium and even authors of ray books like Dr Richard Ross post on this forum, but apparently it's more important to keep the idiots around then ban their worthless arses. A shame for someone like me that needs help that the idiots are unable to provide. Not even worth posting in the ray forum anymore..... :(
 
I did exactly what you described with Prazi. Treat a couple times, rays improve, then I quit. Not this time.... lol. Dose, wait 4 days, redoes, wait a few days, flush tank (1/4" drip line ran wide open) for a day or 2, couple days rest, repeat. Had to move all the K1 to bio towers rather then reactors to insure it stays wet and rolling instead of foam surfing and drying out.

Recommendations from the university were sulfadimethoxine/trimethoprim combo. Both found in Maracyn plus. Should be here tom or Friday from Jehmco.... :)

Dactylogyrus has been my hunch for a loooong time. I've inquired about it before, just no real proof to fuel this "hunch" till now.

Mr. Webber is a very wise man. And VERY VERY helpful. It's really too bad that people like this are ran off by our forum idiots that are allowed to stay pissing match after pissing match. We used to have people like him, care takers for the rays at the Shedd aquarium and even authors of ray books like Dr Richard Ross post on this forum, but apparently it's more important to keep the idiots around then ban their worthless arses. A shame for someone like me that needs help that the idiots are unable to provide. Not even worth posting in the ray forum anymore..... :(


Outstanding! You've got it locked down it sounds like. I'm excited to see the quality of marbles you'll be popping out in the near future.

Smart move with the bio tower approach. The crazy amount of air through the reactors seems to almost act like a protein skimmer/foam fractionator when any meds are added.
 
I really shouldnt be watching vids of an Aimira ... the temptation is growing! ... what a tank DB, great collection, beautiful rays ... glad you got some insight into some of the ray issues as well

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I really shouldnt be watching vids of an Aimira ... the temptation is growing! ... what a tank DB, great collection, beautiful rays ... glad you got some insight into some of the ray issues as well

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That insight might very well be the same insight that keeps Armatus alive.

Nobody seems to monitor conductivity. The conductivity in my best testing tank is still roughly 20 TIMES what their natural habitat tests.

Everyone knows they need clean water, but the question is HOW clean? Clean enough cause the Nitrate doesn't test high? Clean cause there's one little fish in a huge tank? What if the water coming out of our tap has enough crap in it to doom them from day 1?
 
I agree with you 100% ... there are so many variables in the water that I think need to be considered that are not ... I need to check all these different readings in my water, cause I figure the more people that do, it will lend more data to formulate a theory and make educated guesses about the importance of these different variables with keeping certain types of fish

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Just to give you an idea.......

My pure RO water here tests 3 ppm TDS. Incoming is around 300. So how can you get any "cleaner" then that? 3 is almost 0. BUT when the conductivity is measured it's 47 microsiemens. The water in the river is around 15. That's right, my pure RO water tests 3 times higher then what's in the river. My tank tests OVER 1500 microsiemens.

My guess is unless we start nailing this kind of crap down none of us will ever see big Armatus. They simply aren't built to deal with the water in our tanks.
 
So how do you bring down your conductivity?


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I have to use RO. My tap is 4-5 times higher then where you can get down to without having to worry about the water becoming unstable.

My tank testing over double what my tap does is all on me not dripping enough, but I'm taking it as a drip is just a crutch to get you to the weekend where there still needs to be massive manual water changes done. My water changes were apparently no where near enough.

Once I get a handle on how my typical maintenance effects the conductivity numbers then I should be able to tell if these home made radial flow separators can help keep numbers in check by being able to remove the waste that settles out once or twice a day or if it doesn't matter.
 
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