A *quirky* take on the DIY mega-tank

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mmfarm

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jan 29, 2009
25
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USA
Introduction:
Have you heard of Quirky.com, the site where you submit your invention ideas, and the online community collaboratively develops the design, marketing, etc. of the product and eventually the best ones are chosen for production? Well, I have an idea for a different take on the DIY tank, and thought it would be fun to collaborate here on this new system, eventually using the collective knowledge of the MFK community to come up with the best design. Then hopefully I (or someone else) will give it a try!

The problem:
Some of the inherent problems in the ol’ DIY plywood tank that have kept me from taking the plunge are:
1- The permanence of the structure means it cannot easily be moved, removed or sold. What if I decide I want the tank in a different part of the house? Or a different house altogether? What if I decide I actually need a tank twice the size of this one, do I now have to rip the whole thing apart and start over with nothing to show for it?
2- The fact that a large plywood tank, in large part, needs to be built in place either because it is too big to get through a doorway, or because of the permanence thing. Harsh chemical vapors aside, if I want to take my merry time building this thing, is my living room, basement, man cave, etc. going to become a construction zone for 6 months (or two years ☺)?
3- The fear that the DIY tank will not be reliable or last long enough to be worth it.

The Idea:
The basic idea is to make the tank out of sandwiched fiberglass and foam pieces that bolt together. Sort of like a giant, oddly shaped DIY surfboard. Each piece will have extrusions allowing them to be bolted together outside of the tank, and then they can be sealed from the inside as if it was a standard glass tank. Each piece should be light enough and “small” enough to be easily* moved when its time to assemble the tank. If made correctly, the idea is that it could be built off site (as close as the garage or as far away needed), easily taken apart and moved or stored, etc. Perhaps this has already been done, or is something professional tank builders do all the time. (For a similar build, see http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?172274-DIY-600-Gallon-Tank) If you know of something similar, please let me know.

The design:
My tank features a front that includes an 8’ viewing window and two ~4’ windows that stretch back at 45 degrees. The back is a “semi circle” making a somewhat oval design. At 30” deep, it is somewhere around 1100 gallons. The top and bottom basically sandwich the front and back into a track within those pieces. The idea is that the extrusions of each piece would line up and have a bolt put through that holds them together adding strength and rigidity. I would like to try and keep the top as open as possible, but my design and other designs may need bracing across the top.

Let’s collaborate:
Here are some questions we, as a community, can collaborate on. Most of them are specific to this type of build, not this specific design. Let’s just focus on build technique and design first. We can talk about plumbing, filtration, stock, lighting, etc. down the line. I will keep track of the ideas, and eventually compile them into 1 doc.

1. Making a tank from sandwiched foam:
a. Does anyone have experience using this technique? What are your concerns? Does anyone have any resources we can use to calculate the strength of such a design?
b. Should the foam be framed in wood or metal? Should there be interior framing? How much space between studs? Should areas where there will be plumbing be reinforced?
c. Is foam and epoxy fiberglass form sufficient? What about doing fiberglass and epoxy over a sandwich of ¼” ply – foam – ¼” ply?
d. How wide should the sandwich be? My design has 1.5” for all the pieces except the front, which is 2.5”
2. Attaching the pieces together:
a. The idea was that the pieces would be bolted together. The pieces could be designed such that the extrusions are the same as the rest: sandwich fiberglass. Alternatively, metal brackets could be installed into the pieces and the brackets could be bolted together.
b. The idea was to seal the pieces together with silicon, as if assembling a glass tank. Is there a better sealant to be used? One that still allows the tank to be disassembled?
3. Installing the viewing panels
Of course there are plenty of opinions on the glass vs. acrylic question. But how does the material used effect the following questions:
b. Recessing the window: my design calls for the 2.5” foam sandwich to be recessed and the window installed into that recess, so that it is level on the inside. Is this necessary? How much overlap should there be? Does the size of the window effect this?
c. Should the window be permanently installed on the front piece? If so, should it be fiber glassed right in? Pro’s of this would be hopefully a more reliable seal. Con’s would be adding weight to the piece and if something happens to the window, a harder fix. Perhaps more chance of damage too, not to mention added weight.
d. If not glassed in, how should the window be sealed in place? If glass, is silicon and water pressure sufficient? If acrylic, how could that be sealed in place?

OK, that’s a lot to get us started. We can move on to stand, trim and hood after resolving these seminal issues.

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I'll bite, as I asked many of these same questions at one point. One must consider the long term effects of continuous water pressure and the behavior of materials. This will narrow it down a little. I would recommend going to a few public aquariums first and copy or improve on their design. Thats what I did and learned a great deal. Saturation of foam under pressure? Dow 795, fiberglass, polyurea...all things to study. Overlap of the windows within the frame etc...

For that shape, my choice would be thermoformed acrylic.

Kaizen would be a suitable description for this idea and the way ahead in DIY tank building IMO. The answers you seek are all over this site, just have to dig for it as many have traveled this path. Have you studied this one for starters?

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...1PZ1Ue_jMuzi4APa7IGQAQ&ved=0CDMQ9QEwAA&dur=30
 
Phixer,
Thanks for the reply. Certainly there are things to continue to research. But the community design idea is based on the premise that different readers have different expertise. Many of us have read and followed as many builds as we can find, but a lot of the information is anecdotal or short term. So my hope is that the collective knowledge of the community can answer some of these and other issues and we can develop an improved DIY tank design.

Thanks for the link. That is in fact the build that inspired this idea! Ways I think it can be improved are 1.) can it be more lightweight (aka, not plywood core), and 2.) improve the way the pieces are attached to one another.

Any input? Especially regarding the issues of 1.)how to fabricate the pieces, 2) how to attach and seal them and 3.) how to seal in the viewing window.


Let's get the juices flowing!
 
IMG_0453.JPGIMG_0487.JPGInteresting for sure. As mentioned my first choice would be thermoformed acrylic but, if someone was set on this design Id probably consider something like this:

2" powder coated horizontal steel box frame with 2" vertical box tubular posts 12" OC, 1/8 wall thickness. Base and top constructed from plywood core fiberglass laminated composite with access holes in top. Waterproof with polyurea. Viewing panels sealed to frame using Dow 795. Basically...

Pics of the Dubai aquarium. The gasket shown is actually made of a material similar to 795 and is used to seal the adjoining acrylic segements in tunnel.

HD foam is good for surf boards and insulation but lacks the structural rigidness needed for most hydrostatic applications.

Good luck.

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Hi,

Im the guy who made the plywood tank with the bolts in the first link there. I will probably make my next tank from sandwiched foam. But probably in one piece, as it will be a small tank. I did a strength test of XPS as core material. The conclusion was that XPS is rather soft, doesn't allow to use the full strength of the fibers. Better with PVC, PU or foam glass.

1 a. No, I've been searching for a way to calculate stresses. It is relatively easy to get the strength of sandwiched plates, but the more challenging part seems to be bending stresses on the corners. The best would be to eliminate those, which you have done in your design (rim on top). I want a rimless design though as I didn't like the rim of my previous tank.
1 b. No! Keep it simple. Complexity is an enemy when building things.

2 a. No brackets IMO.
2 b. Dont know.

3 b. No, don't recess. It adds a bunch of new corners. Those are terrible when fiberglassing. 2 inches overlap is fine (?).
3 c. Silicone the glass on the back side as usual. Don't fiberglass it in. It allows for thermal movement of the different materials. Your solution may
work, but why make it hard when it is simple?
3 d. If glass, silicone is good. Waterpressure is too weak to have anything to do with it. With the right type of primer it may be possible to silicone acryllic also. But I am not sure.

My first impression of your design is that I don't like the top and bottom pieces. They are too complex, and there are corner issues. I think the secret to making this work in practice is to make all the parts as simple, relatively flat surfaces. That is the design challenge.
 
Thread to be eagerly followed :)
 
Thanks everyone for the replies.
Norsk, thanks for the inspiration!
So you don't think the pieces need to be anything other than fiberglassed foam? How wide would you make them? How many layers of FG? I was leaning towards at least some sort of frame, and perhaps even a lightweight sheathing.

I know what you mean about the top and bottom being too complicated. My thinking was that if rigidity was an issue, the sides would be extra supported by that design. But here is an alternative, where the sides protrude with enough area to bolt it to a flat top and bottom. It may be solving some issues by creating others.

Thanks for the input guys. I hope people continue to opine!

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I like your last sketch. That eliminates the problems with bending stress in the corners. Just remember that the corners on the walls must be rounded so that you get whole unbroken fibers all over the wall. These can then be bolted to the fibers in the bottom and top and you get a very good structure. You need to use many small bolts to get good friction, because it is now the friction between the plates that holds the tank together. Plates are not resting on other plates. The silicon seams will clearly be an extra safety though, acting as a glue.

Then the big question remains: How thick foam and how much fiberglass? With this design I am pretty sure the answer will be that the walls need to be surprisingly thin. I know that the problem is very easy to model in structural engineering. Unfortunately I can't give the answer. Then again, perfection is the enemy of good enough. How about just trying 15mm foam and 2 layers of cloth on each side and see if it works? Or build a big test tank without windows, and relatively thin walls and just see what happens. Testing gives ultimate answers.
 
Some more ideas if you want to do testing. What you want to do is to decide on a height, width, thickness and amount of fiberglass of a panel and then find how much deflection it has when it works as a wall in an aquarium. You could build a test aquarium out of leftover wood materials, practically for free, to do this. You need studs, screws, and any type of cheap wood sheets, like OSB or the like. Build a tank like the one in my pages out of this, but with just wood, no water proofing. Put the composite panel into the window opening of the tank, just loosely. Put a big sheet of plastic foil inside, for waterproofing, and fill up. You can now measure the deflection of the plate. If it is extremely small, only a few millimeters, it works. If you can see bending, it is to thin.
 
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