A Reef Mystery

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Gprime;4546315; said:
Air stones are primarily for CO2/O2 exchange. Power heads help with that in SW tanks due to water surface agitation I believe. If you're thinking there's not enough oxygen getting into your tank, then your fish would be dead too.

This...might actually be the answer.

I DO use an airstone in my 75g reef. Its right at the top though. I use it because I have live macros in my display tank (not anymore) but the reason I was using it was for pH stability.

Due to the fact that he is using RO water, the water is already prone to pH swings and buffering issues. The airstone might be providing a more stable environment.

That being said, I still think its a lighting issue. Stores dont usually have the greatest of lights either unless you have a high quality LFS.
 
Ok to be honest, I haven't read the other responses that came in after your reply following my post - so, if I re-state something someone has already covered, my apologies...

Ok so I read your response where you stated the difference in lighting and aeration. First with the lighting - major difference between T5's and MH, not only in brightness, but more importantly in spectrum. MH ISSS a good thing for reefs, but you need to keep in mind that most softies DO NOT need high lighting because even though they do utelize photosynthesis, it's not anywhere near to the degree that SPS and LPS corals do/ Placing them at the bottom is a good start, but don't be afraid to move them out od direct lighting either. Remember, even if they look like they are in the "shade", they are still getting refragmented rays and the spectrum is much more intense, supplementing anything they'd be missing otherwise from being sheltered from a lesser source (T5 for example).

BUT... It may not be the only issue here. What stuck out to me immediately was aeration. I can't stress enough how vital it is - especially in a reef, where damn near everything is living - to have adequate oxygenation. Surface disturbance - to oxygenate waters and release natural gasses is vital, as well as mid-column current. I would advise against using bubble wands and opt for power heads. Airstones alone generally won't provide anywhere near the O2 or current you need for a healthy system. Returns from sumps/canisters help if placed along the top portion of the tank, but you want full circulation. Fish can swim to better oxygenated areas (might wanna watch their behavior too for clues), but corals can't, they rely on what you provide them and for most - where you put them.

For starters, trying aerating the tank more efficiently, and re-adjust your lighting, remove one MH (actinics are fine), unless they are within the same unit (Then I'd suggest trying T5's on the home tank as an experiement to either rule out or confirm lighting as a contributor). Try to match your home tank with your work tank and see if yo notice improvements, and then modify from there to identify the line crossed from good to bad.
 
I must have missed the part where your snails died.
 
Thanks again for your timely responses. A reason I was disagreeing on the lighting issue is thats the same lighting used at the lfs where the doner frag came from.

One other possibility is that I had a problem with my sump pump connection and had a metal hose clamp on it for 3 weeks till the plastic ones came. The clamp did show signs of rust. It was removed and a chem-pure bag placed in the sump to remove any metals. Copper was tested at 0.

Friday is my wc day, still planning on doing a 50%wc and see what effect, if any, that has.
 
Interesting development yesterday. I was lamenting at the lfs about my problem and a guy (lfs salesman) chimed in about copper in the tank and I said 0 and he asked what test kit was used and then he laughed. "Well, the API kit is good, to check treatment levels of copper. If you want to know if its in the tank you need a Siefert kit." Basically explained the API tests from .25 to 4.0 whereas the Siefert tests kit ranges from 0.0 to 1.0. Levels that are just as toxic to leathery corals but, not covered by the API. And, as luck has it none of the 4 lfs's arround got it...so I order one. (fingers crossed)
 
That would be an interesting dilemma. Any reason for you to suspect that you have copper in your water?

I hate buying salifert test kits...but after battling a non-existent pH and alk issues for three months...I realized it was cheaper to have nice test kits. Who knows how accurate salifert REALLY is...no one I bet.

A lot of stupid reefer people will tell you that you NEED their test kit...when in reality they are just being big-wigs. Then again...They work. So...kinda ticks me off. Just another case of "You get what you pay for in marine aquaria." But the difference in price between them and the competition shoudlnt be so huge.
 
FLESHY;4551416; said:
That would be an interesting dilemma. Any reason for you to suspect that you have copper in your water?

I hate buying salifert test kits...but after battling a non-existent pH and alk issues for three months...I realized it was cheaper to have nice test kits. Who knows how accurate salifert REALLY is...no one I bet.

A lot of stupid reefer people will tell you that you NEED their test kit...when in reality they are just being big-wigs. Then again...They work. So...kinda ticks me off. Just another case of "You get what you pay for in marine aquaria." But the difference in price between them and the competition shoudlnt be so huge.
Some good reading... http://dfwmas.org/files/TestKitAnalysis.pdf
 
FLESHY;4551470; said:
Just all over the place...not cool.

That being said my tusk comes tomorrow! :D I really hope that he acclimates okay.
Yea, Salifert isnt any better then API test kits.
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com