about had it, 2260 help

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
mopani said:
This is about to go out the back door, the back wash nozzle that is suppose to fit in the the hole is not connecting there isn't any threads to run it to, are you suppose to twist the cap put in the inside and then tighten them that way, I like to think myself as a smart person but wtf, also the picture on box shows 6 tighteners and I only have 5
Also are you suppose to cut the hose in a few bits to connect the hard tubes together and the output hard tube had no end to it, are you just suppose to let it flow out , this such BS
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the back wash nozzle should have came with a little plastic nut that goes inside the filter where the back wash connects with.. if i count my 3 2262's they only come with 5 tighteners.. 4x1" and 1x5/8" tighteners. the 1" are to be used to connect the intake pipe and the elbow connector and the other end of the elbow connector gets another tightener then the last 1" tightener goes to the threaded connector that connects the 1" intake to the canister.. the smaller tightener clamps the pressure side of the S shape so the tubing and the S shape outlet pipe doesn't fall apart..
here is a full picture on how to setup this filter by EHEIM website.
http://www.eheimparts.com/pdf/2260.pdf
 
i have that saved, but still couldn't figure it. mine didn't come with the 7277708, pipe plug ?? and the back wash piece does have a screw and a rubber seal, so your un screw it and put it inside to connect them together, umm maybe I need to re try it. my parts pic shows 5 ring tighteners but if you look at the picture of the filter on box., it shows 6. also you are suppose to cut the hose so you can use it to tighten the hard plastic piece together right ? thanks Soupa
 
If you look in the bottom of the empty canister where the hole is for the backwash/drain tap fitting, there is a slot that accepts the nut that you screw the backwash/drain tap fitting into. Make sure the o-ring is seated in the small groove on the threaded end of the backwash/drain tap fitting before you screw it into the nut that is located in the slot inside the filter body. The nut may already be on the backwash/drain tap fitting, just take it off, drop it in the slot and screw the fitting in until snug. Do not use a wrench to tighten it up. The o-ring forms the seal against the outside of the filter housing. BTW, the backwash/drain tap fitting has the on/off valve.

This assembly is the same for the larger inlet/suction connector fitting that is in the recessed area at the bottom of the canister filter if that connector is not already attached.

The pipe plug for the spraybar is either already in the end of the spraybar or it is in the bag of Eheim parts.

Here is a pic of the intake hose, clamp and one half of the double disconnect valve attached to my Eheim 2260.

[URL=http://s31.photobucket.com/user/dee1na/media/Eheim%202260/100_0467.jpg.html][/URL]

I cut my intake hose about 10" long, push it onto the barbed inlet/suction fitting on the filter, slide on the metal clamp and turn the screw head to snug the clamp down so the hose won't turn or pop off. Now, turn the nut on the end of the disconnect fitting until it is closest to the valve, push the barbed end of the disconnect fitting into the other end of the hose, turn the nut away from the valve so it secures the hose snugly so it won't rotate or pop of the valve. You only need to turn the nut hand tight, not wrenches. You just need it snug so you can't pull off the valve.

I choose to cut the intake hose that remains attached to the filter body relatively short so that the filter is easy to remove and replace under the stand without a lot of hose flopping around. Don't cut it too short because you want to retain a gentle arc of the hose so that it exits the back of the stand smoothly without any kinks or strain on the inlet/suction fitting attached to the filter body.
 
mine doesnt have the cap, checked didnt not come with it, I got it all set except, again I gotta know do you cut hose and fit in the middle of the hard out and in tank pieces, I seen youtube videos of other ehiems and you dont have to but some I have.
 
You need to cut a short piece of intake hose to fit between the intake J-tube that is behind the tank and the intake J-tube that is inside the tank. The length of this piece depends on your particular tank rim. On my tank, the piece is less than 2" long. It is best if you can mount the inside the tank J-tube in place with the suction cups and hold the behind the tank J-tube with one hand and measure the distance between the two with a tape measure.

You will need to use the two large clamps to secure the short piece of intake hose to these two J-tubes.
 
`ok so use in on IN and OUT takes., alright thanks I got it down now, lol pray for me, I will do it tomorrow, thanks, I wish eheim would do a nice video or a better direction booklet I would have no clue how to do this without MFK
 
I also want to comment on your first post regarding mounting the pump to the canister lid. I found it best to attach the threaded elbow connector to the pump first, then make sure the union nut slides onto the elbow and finally the o-ring. You can place the pump onto the pump platform while inserting the elbow into the fitting on the pump lid. This allows everything to line up properly. Snug up the union nut onto the fitting on the pump lid, hand snug only, and now you can screw the pump down to the platform.

Here is a pic of the parts

[URL=http://s31.photobucket.com/user/dee1na/media/Eheim%202260/100_0446.jpg.html][/URL]

Here is a pic of mounting the pump. That o-ring/sealing ring is what make the connection watertight between the two fittings.

[URL=http://s31.photobucket.com/user/dee1na/media/Eheim%202260/100_0448.jpg.html][/URL]
 
When I set my first Eheim 2260 up, I also found the directions rather poorly written but I relied heavily on the diagrams/pictures in the manual to figure out what the individual parts looked like and what their names were. I find it extremely helpful to use the correct names for the parts because it makes it easier to figure out what someone is referring to.

I come from an industrial background and job so I am familiar with the exploded views of equipment so I think that helps a great deal. I also have copies of my filter manuals, parts numbers and diagrams in a binder near my computer for reference.
 
you been a big help Deeda and i am all set up except connecting the in take and out take to the actual hose, I have the hoses connected to the canister itself. gonna be a fun day tomorrow, a bit worried that lever will mess up on the back wash, just so easy for it to turn and flood the floor, lol also why doesnt the 2260 have the quick connects like all the others. last question I hope... do i fill the 2260 full of water to prime it, like the fx6s.
 
I agree with Deeda.. always use the correct term for the individual parts name so people understand what you're referring to when you ask a question.. that's why eheim have parts # for their part so no confusions... if you follow their diagram you'll see clearly how the filter is setup...
 
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