AC Voltage Detected in Water

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I have 2 of those on my tanks, 200 and 250w. I'm a little bit worried, but I don't have the money to replace them.
Hopefully I don't end up losing $270 in fish because I didn't bother replacing $40 in heaters.
 
Oh, and by the way, BUY A GFCI. If your heaters are truly compromised in any way that matters, it would trip as soon as you touched the water.
You can also buy a ground probe, which will cause the gfci to trip as soon as there's a problem, without you ever having to provide a path to ground.
 
Have had several Stealth heaters in past and seem to have served me well, but I unplugged these and won't hook back up without further testing and checking over (Will replace anyways). I have a brand new 300w hydor that I haven't even opened yet, so maybe I'll buy another to match, easier to match temps that way without an extra temp control.
I built my tank into a wall, so when I did the wiring, I made sure everything was GFCI protected (outlets and circuits going to lights) so I should be good there. Guess nothing was faulting out too bad to trip it yet.
Was curious how these voltages looked compared to anyone else whos had similiar prob. Have any of you ever checked for voltage in your water? If so, how high was the voltage?
 
I'm becoming quite the fan of ebo jager heaters. I leaning back towards being about to see the light on. Its either those or titaniums with a controller for me.

You might look into the titanium option as well since you have 600W of heat. You could even plug the hydor into the controller. Would give you a little safeguard against them roasting your tank.
 
Dionysus;3426309; said:
Have had several Stealth heaters in past and seem to have served me well, but I unplugged these and won't hook back up without further testing and checking over (Will replace anyways). I have a brand new 300w hydor that I haven't even opened yet, so maybe I'll buy another to match, easier to match temps that way without an extra temp control.
I built my tank into a wall, so when I did the wiring, I made sure everything was GFCI protected (outlets and circuits going to lights) so I should be good there. Guess nothing was faulting out too bad to trip it yet.
Was curious how these voltages looked compared to anyone else whos had similiar prob. Have any of you ever checked for voltage in your water? If so, how high was the voltage?
Click to expand...

GFCIs work by detecting differences in current between the hot and neutral pins (the blade ones.) They're pretty sensitive, and if there's any difference, as in current flowing to the ground pin for a grounded device or current flowing to ground by any other means for a non-grounded device.

So, if your heaters were compromised, the gfci would trip. Or you have a broken GFCI. They do have a "test" button for a reason, you know.
 
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