Acrylic Tank Design Question

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
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Not the best pic but you can see where the floor pieces are butted together aswell as how the rounded ends are attached with the square stock on the inside.

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Bottom is actually 5 pieces sorry...one in the middle and 2 on each end piece.

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LOL...Yeah I believe the same thing about butt joints after studying those tanks up close. IMG_0503.JPG

What concerned me is when I saw this model of a 2" thick butt joint full of bubbles? Angle is looking down on it. Looking at it straight on is worse. It's really a bad job and not transparent at all who ever did this.

Im looking for an invisible seam and am leaning towards a 1/8 gap butt joint filled in or the V joint in hopes that this design and a slow pour or needle syringe removal of any remaining bubbles will prevent something like this.

Thinking this was done by an amateur though as indicated by all of the bubbles. Really a crappy job in terms of clarity, but strong as hell none the less.

IMG_0503.JPG
 
Thats a cool beast for sure, what are the dimensions of it. Are both ends bullet shaped? Is this the new shark home?

Ironic you mentioned this. Im going to have to post some pics of one I picked up last week as well. This one's kind of strange though, 120 x30 x30" top, bottom, front and back look like 7/8" ? and sides are a different size for some odd reason? 1.20 or some wierd size?
 
My new tanks dims are 10'x3'x31.5". Top is 1",bottom is .5".bullet ends are 3/8", and front and back spans are 1/2". So yes i can attest to ur new tank having different material sizes lol. I have a 450 8x3x30" thats 1/2 front and back and 3/4" sides, 3/8" bottom and 1" top?. Odd how older tanks were built but they were made alot better 15 plus years ago imo. This new 500 dbl bullet end is my sharks new home, there gonna love it :). Ill put up a pic so u can see both ends.

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Cant see the pic u posted on my phone? But i dont think youll have problems with bubbles when mixing #40. I stir slowly with a paintbrush then tap the container with my fingers to get almost all the bubbles out. Its a good wiff in the face straight to space if you also blow on the glue in the container but this is an exellent way to get the remaining bubbles out before pouring. #40 has a good pot life of 20-25min so its not like it starts setting up before you can do what you need to with it i.e. removing bubbles then pouring. I also make alot of RTV silicone molds and use a ghetto vibration table to remove all bubbles. Easy to make. I aquired a small 9v parts shaker and just bolted it straight to a work bench. But ya anything that can make a table or chair shake thats electrical will work lol..im sure u have something laying around. I also think ur "v" joint will do just fine.

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