1000w jbj trutemp titanium was what i had on my 500g. also had 3-200w which didnt even get me to 3WPG but maintained about 76 degrees when ambient temp was 10 less. the temp probe went in about 8 months n their cust service wasnt very good. for a 200 dollar heater i wasnt impressed.
advice on choosing heater wattage for 300g + sump
- Thread starter chiroken
- Start date
Set up as much as 1,000W. Divide it at least into 3 heaters. If you see >10C temperature fluctuations in your room ambient, run 2 timers with 2 running most of the time and the 3rd at 50-75% of the time. If it is <10C fluctuations, run the 3rd one 25% daily. This provides backup in case of heater failure. Personally, for the 2pcs 300W in my 250 gallon, I set one's temperature such that it is 2C higher than what is desired. If you can get an active temperature controller, much better.
I have a temperatue controller and two titanium heaters (1000W and 300W) in my 300 gallon. The room it's in drops close to 60*F, and I keep pbass at a toasty 84F, so I am pulling a lot of watts. ;_;
I would use 3X 300watt or 2x 500watt heaters over a single 1000watt due to more heat displacement and surface area it will be more effective and as said above if one fails you still got backups and whatever route you go a temp controller is a good idea especially with big tanks and high wattage heating!
3X jager w/jemcho or jbj controller is my recommendation and Dr fosters has free shipping on 50$+ so you can get a controller and 3 heaters for 165$ delivered to your door
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=23726
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4416+21333&pcatid=21333
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Go S.Vettel #1 RB8 3X WDC!!!!!!!!!
3X jager w/jemcho or jbj controller is my recommendation and Dr fosters has free shipping on 50$+ so you can get a controller and 3 heaters for 165$ delivered to your door
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=23726
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4416+21333&pcatid=21333
__________________________________________________________________
Go S.Vettel #1 RB8 3X WDC!!!!!!!!!
>http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?504763-Cheap-plants-less-nitrate!-POTHOS
The tank would be temporarily in the garage, maybe 2 months, then into the livingroom. Regardless of how long, it does still need to be heated out there thoughI can easily lash 3 sides with 1-2 inch styrofoam, same as what I'm insulating the basement foundation walls with. The bottom of the tank has plywood under the glass and inside of the trim to make the bottom flush. It sits on 1/2"-5/8" styrofoam. I will be getting glass pieces for a lid as well.
The garage is insulated and has a baseboard heater that I have on during the winter, I can turn it up. Our winters have many days below freezing but rarely that many degrees below freezing. Doubt the garage would freeze if the baseboard heater was off. It does get chilly out there so it will need more juice to heat the tank while out there.
I have come across the jehmco option of having 2 500W heaters on their controller.
I would recommend placing your temperature probe in the compartment of your sump just prior to your return pump. You always want the heaters downflow of the temp sensor, but in the same tank (whether it's the sump or the display) in order to avoid catastrophe. For example, say you have the heaters in your sump and the temperature controller's sensor in the disaply; if your pump fails (which they all eventually do) you will nuke your sump; vice versa if the heaters are in the display and temp sensor in your sump.
There is a lot of misconception in regards to this concept, but I think the diagram below will make it more clear as to why this is the best way to set your heating system up when you are running a sump. Keep in mind what will happen if flow stops.
PS- if you end up running heaters that have their own internal thermostat (as opposed to just the titanium heating rods), it's a good idea to set them to about 85F so that if your temperature controller fails "On", then the heaters internal thermostat will shut them down at 85F; redundant failsafes are always a good idea. Running two smaller return pumps (as opposed to one large pump) is another good idea to help prevent catastrophe.
I run my heaters in a high flow spot in my sump... between where my filter bag is and my bio-media... but thats to avoid them being to close to anything that could melt/be negatively effected by them.. and def agree go with a few smaller ones opposed ot one big one to avoid a potential disaster. and on the note if you go to low in wattage your heaters will be running non-stop and more prone to failure... they will also be guzzling more energy overall. spending a few extra $$ on 1kwatts or so will work your heaters less.... which will save you less money as well on your monthly bills. I don't use a temp controller just 2 250watts aqueon subs on the 120. But I'm very happy with them, and if one goes out.. the other is capable of heating the tank. and I keep a thermometer in my over-flow box so I can see the "true" tank temp anytime.
+1 on this idea. I'm running the same placement w/ a Jehmco controller and 500w titanium heater for my 300 gallon and it works great. You may want to double up to 1,000w if you're in the garage or need really warm temps....
Then I suggest you immediately go out and start looking for another tank as you seem to have the perfect place for one!
First off, thank you for all the input, including links and diagrams. It's frustrating when you post what you think is a good question and get no replies!
Great info as to where the temp probe should go. I thot I'd put it in the main tank but it will now go upstream of the heaters in the sump (and it's less wires into the tank).
I was thinking the same as far as setting the heater thermostats to a temp. higher than desired but not to max. The controller companies seem to generically suggest turning the heaters on high. 1000W could be trouble if the controller sticks "on".
I am leaning towards a Digital Aquatics RKL controller http://www.digitalaquatics.com/saltwater/RKL which gives me 4 plug outlets so I can run all my lighting off the controller as well. Abit more expensive but that function is worth it.
I am leaning towards 3 ebo-jager 300W heaters. I have historically run ebo's and have great confidence in them. I can run all 3 in the garage and hopefully run just 2 once in the tank is in the house. That will leave me 2 outlets for daytime and evening light control. If I need all 3 then so be it. If not then I have a spare (which actually means it will heat yet another tank somewhere in the house ).
One reason for these selections is they are available from what I've found to be the best online retailer in Canada. Great service, excellent prices and shipping is free over $99.
Great info as to where the temp probe should go. I thot I'd put it in the main tank but it will now go upstream of the heaters in the sump (and it's less wires into the tank).
I was thinking the same as far as setting the heater thermostats to a temp. higher than desired but not to max. The controller companies seem to generically suggest turning the heaters on high. 1000W could be trouble if the controller sticks "on".
I am leaning towards a Digital Aquatics RKL controller http://www.digitalaquatics.com/saltwater/RKL which gives me 4 plug outlets so I can run all my lighting off the controller as well. Abit more expensive but that function is worth it.
I am leaning towards 3 ebo-jager 300W heaters. I have historically run ebo's and have great confidence in them. I can run all 3 in the garage and hopefully run just 2 once in the tank is in the house. That will leave me 2 outlets for daytime and evening light control. If I need all 3 then so be it. If not then I have a spare (which actually means it will heat yet another tank somewhere in the house
).One reason for these selections is they are available from what I've found to be the best online retailer in Canada. Great service, excellent prices and shipping is free over $99.
Been reading to learn.
Did I read that heaters should be timed? I leave mine running on my 29 all the time and have in the past for other aquariums. I've only gotten a few years out of any of them. 8 is my longest running. I always figured the power outtages fryed them (kind of often) or I've actually seen my Pacu destroy them (Putting a sump together just for him). I was using two heaters on my 125 but I didn't time them. Would it be better to time my heaters once I add working ones? (Away from the Pacu) I've since added a UPS and a powersurge but it's only as effective as my wife turning everything off before it all frys anyway.
I'm interested to find out if that would be a lot more effective. Might try 4 just because the lighter wattages are easier to find.
Did I read that heaters should be timed? I leave mine running on my 29 all the time and have in the past for other aquariums. I've only gotten a few years out of any of them. 8 is my longest running. I always figured the power outtages fryed them (kind of often) or I've actually seen my Pacu destroy them (Putting a sump together just for him). I was using two heaters on my 125 but I didn't time them. Would it be better to time my heaters once I add working ones? (Away from the Pacu) I've since added a UPS and a powersurge but it's only as effective as my wife turning everything off before it all frys anyway.
I'm interested to find out if that would be a lot more effective. Might try 4 just because the lighter wattages are easier to find.
