When you say your nitrAtes are about 5, is the tester actually changing color, or is it kind of not really "0" but not really "5" either?
algae problem...
- Thread starter tommy_zito
- Start date
Whats your stock list? as long as your running quad T5's your gonna have algae growth imo. I've seen many a brown algae spurt when starting up a new planted tank. A few suggestions
- Add some Algae grazing Africans to your stock list that will love to munch on the algae.
- replace the T5's with some T8's or run only 1-2 bulbs.
- Add some hearty plants that will utilize the nitrates and the lighting you offer, but will not be consumed by the fish.
- Add some Algae grazing Africans to your stock list that will love to munch on the algae.
- replace the T5's with some T8's or run only 1-2 bulbs.
- Add some hearty plants that will utilize the nitrates and the lighting you offer, but will not be consumed by the fish.
He has CORALS, these are not freshwater tanks.MonsterMinis;4802739; said:
This is not a planted tank. It is saltwater.
Frequent water changes will make your brown algae slowly go away.
The Sig States it is an African tank... Not a SW talk. Many African keepers add Coral to their tank to buffer their water... 'nore am I the first one to assume this is a FW tank. OP a lil' clarification would help greatly.
Yeah, at first I thought freshwater too. The coral thing threw me off, especially since he said it multiple times. Either way, changing the water out with fresh, new water will fix the problem.
Not long term. infact long term it could add to the algae issue. and a big difference between a FW brown algae bloom and a SW one. Changeing the water of an already cycled tank excessinvely is just going to add more nutrients to the water.. which will feed the algae.
If the OPs water is 0-0-5 the Algae are atm in a starve point likely. THe only long-term addressing of the issue is with the lighting.. either cut it, add something to eat the algae, or starve the algae out with live plants. Increaseing the water change frequency with the amount of T5 imo is just going to flood the system with more algae. I will say I am a firm believer in 1x WC a week min.
Otherwise you can always dump a bottle of "Algae be gone" and re-cycle the tank all over. But the algae will be gone.. for awhile.
If the OPs water is 0-0-5 the Algae are atm in a starve point likely. THe only long-term addressing of the issue is with the lighting.. either cut it, add something to eat the algae, or starve the algae out with live plants. Increaseing the water change frequency with the amount of T5 imo is just going to flood the system with more algae. I will say I am a firm believer in 1x WC a week min.
Otherwise you can always dump a bottle of "Algae be gone" and re-cycle the tank all over. But the algae will be gone.. for awhile.
He's only done one water change. I believe he is getting an inaccurate nitrAte reading, that's why I asked him to clarify the results he is seeing.
Brown algae is due to low light and high nutrients. Adding light and taking away nutrients (silicates and possibly nitrates, since it's a new tank) will correct the problem, without adding to the bioload of the tank. You shouldn't get a fish just to "do a job" you should thoroughly enjoy and be interested in the fish so you don't lose interest and get rid of it later.
It's a new tank, this is common in new tanks, and will likely resolve itself with proper water changes and the silicone sealant no longer leaching silicates into the water.\
Don't use algicide chemicals, they often kill fish, and are just an all around waste of money/bad for your tank.
Brown algae is due to low light and high nutrients. Adding light and taking away nutrients (silicates and possibly nitrates, since it's a new tank) will correct the problem, without adding to the bioload of the tank. You shouldn't get a fish just to "do a job" you should thoroughly enjoy and be interested in the fish so you don't lose interest and get rid of it later.
It's a new tank, this is common in new tanks, and will likely resolve itself with proper water changes and the silicone sealant no longer leaching silicates into the water.\
Don't use algicide chemicals, they often kill fish, and are just an all around waste of money/bad for your tank.
Hey guys sorry for the delay, i work graveyard and todays my first day off witch is usually spent resting up. To make my water conditions clear, hear is a photo of my test...im using the API Freshwater test kit.
Yea the tester changes color, i guess i miss guessed my quote yesterday. its kinda how you described its not really a 5 but not a 0 and it is changing because i use the same test kit for my 150 and its a steady 5ppm.
my stock list includes.
2 4" OB Peacocks
4 2" Not sure of the species peacocks
1 2" Venustus
1 4" Bumblebee
1 1" Convict
1 3" Bristlenose pelco
As far as lighting goes im running 1 10,000k 1 actinic blue so ive already taken out 50% of the bulbs
Yes this is a freshwater tank, i used the coral as decor, and a buffer for the PH.
I bought the tank used, it was set up when i bought it with some small catfish and some pelcos. it spent all of 4 hours with out water in it. i dont believe that the sealant is polluting my water. my lights are on for about 12hrs and its over 1w per G.
Here is the curve ball, im receiving a order of fish in the mail tomorrow morning. about 20 fish. not all are going in this tank right away but some are.
Laticauda;4802645; said:
Yea the tester changes color, i guess i miss guessed my quote yesterday. its kinda how you described its not really a 5 but not a 0 and it is changing because i use the same test kit for my 150 and its a steady 5ppm.
MonsterMinis;4802739; said:
my stock list includes.
2 4" OB Peacocks
4 2" Not sure of the species peacocks
1 2" Venustus
1 4" Bumblebee
1 1" Convict
1 3" Bristlenose pelco
As far as lighting goes im running 1 10,000k 1 actinic blue so ive already taken out 50% of the bulbs
Laticauda;4802808; said:
Yes this is a freshwater tank, i used the coral as decor, and a buffer for the PH.
Laticauda;4802920; said:
I bought the tank used, it was set up when i bought it with some small catfish and some pelcos. it spent all of 4 hours with out water in it. i dont believe that the sealant is polluting my water. my lights are on for about 12hrs and its over 1w per G.
Here is the curve ball, im receiving a order of fish in the mail tomorrow morning. about 20 fish. not all are going in this tank right away but some are.
oh and as soon as i get off the computer here im going to do a 10G water change on the tank with prime.
Do you have any fish in the tank now? (If you don't have any fish, then disregard my next question.) So, you are shaking the right bottles for the right amount of times for the nitrAte test.
The only time I get the "between 0-5" result is when I don't shake up the bottle#2 adequately enough to put the crystals into solution.
The only time I get the "between 0-5" result is when I don't shake up the bottle#2 adequately enough to put the crystals into solution.
