I was looking into options for nitrate reduction earlier today because I was curious as to how low maintenance a large tank could actually be. I was surprised by everything that was available for aquariums, and that most of it was compatible with freshwater. I gathered everything available for freshwater nitrate removal, and I think it may be enough to remove the need for water changes, or at least nitrate related water changes.
With college being just a few years away, I want to make my tank as low maintenance as possible for my parents. Hopefully all they will have to do is feed the fish, and clean the nitrate equipment or replace media 2-3 each year. I plan to have enough equipment to not have any single piece of overworked; preferably they'll all be underworked to keep them cleaner, help the media last longer, and to reduce maintenance for each individual piece of equipment.
Even if college won't interfere with my maintenance schedule or vice versa, I would still like to give myself more free time, as I basically have none between aquarium maintenance and honors/AP classes.
The equipment/materials/supplies I found on BRS that I plan to use are:
1 cubic foot of 2" Marinepure Ceramic Biomedia Cubes
CW-300 Algae Scrubber
Skimz 528gph Quietpro 2.0
Save A Watt P4472
Skimz RR153 Recirculating Biopellet Reactor
1 Gallon BRS Bulk Biopellets
Skimz Monzter NM152 Nitrate Reactor
Caribsea Live Sulfur Media
Milwaukee MC510 ORP controller
Ozotech Poseidon 220 kit:
220mg/hr Ozotech Poseidon generator
large air dryer with beads
milwaukee MC510 ORP controller
BRS 6 Stage 150gpd RO/DI System
1/2" Normally Closed Valve
Tunze Osmolator Unviversal 3155 ATO
Tunze Osmolator Switched Socket Outlet
Float Switch
Lifeguard Quiet One Pro 800
Misc container for RO/DI waste water - Likely a barrel or storage bin
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I plan to have the ozone at the beginning of the sump, in the same compartment as the filter socks. This section should have the most flow, and should give the ozone enough time to gas out before it reaches the bio media. If it doesn't have enough time/flow to gas out, then the waterfall from the filter sock section to the biomedia section should remove the rest. I'm also considering an ozone reactor, so the ozone may gas out before it even reaches the sump. I read that the ideal ORP for ozone is 350-400, so I'll try to keep it at 375.
The simplest part is the Marinepure media. I'll just place it in a low flow area of the sump and the anaerobic bacteria should grow
The biopellet reactor will be in the last section of the sump with the return pump; mainly because that's the only place in the sump that has enough room to fit it. The Biopellet reactor setup should be pretty simple. I'll have a Skimz RR153 Biopellet reactor using 5 cups of BRS Bio Pellets.
The CW-300 Algae scrubber will be ran outside of the sump by a Skimz Quiet Pro 2.0 528gph pump. The pump will once again be in the return pump section of the sump for space reasons. The Algae scrubber's lights will be on a 12 hr timer, 8pm-8am.
The sulfur nitrate filter is where is gets complicated. I plan to use a Skimz Monzter NM152 Nitrate Reactor with 1.75 liters of Caribsea Live Sulfur Media. I will use the Milaukee MC510 ORP controller to keep the ORP between -200 and -150. I've read that below -200 ORP means there isn't enough flow, and above -150 ORP means there is too much flow. Assuming this is true, I'll try to keep the ORP at -175.
The most complicated part will be the fully automated auto top off system. I plan to have the RO/DI connect to the tap, with a normally open/closed (whichever is cheaper. Either will work, all I have to do is flip the detectors for the ATO depending on which one I use) blocking water from entering the RO/DI. When enough water evaporates, the ATO will feed power to the normally closed valve, which will then open; filling the sump with new RO/DI water. Once the sump is full, the ATO will turn off, the valve will close, and the RO/DI will stop filling the sump. The waste water from the RO/DI will enter a container, where I'll just use a float switch to power the Lifeguard Quiet Pro One rather than another full ATO system, as I don't mind DIYing this part to save $200, and I don't need the other functions of an RO/DI. The Lifeguard pump will then pump the water into the drain line for the 210 water changes, which then takes the water outside. This allows me to use pre-existing plumbing rather than having to plumb another separate drain line. The RO/DI system should prevent the hardness from increasing, thus fully removing the need for water changes.
Now here's my main question - Am I crazy or could this system actually work?
Are there any changes I need to make to what I've explained so far, or anything that I missed? Are there any incompatibilities with the equipment I plan to use? Will this be enough to remove all the nitrate from my 210 (and 75g sump that I usually keep nearly full)? All the nitrate removal equipment is rated for ~400 gallons (Nitrate Reactor: up to 396 gallons, Algae Scrubber: up to 400 gallons, Biopellet Reactor: up to 415 gallons, Ozone Generator: up to 440 gallons (I read that most manufactures recommend 0.5mg/hr per gallon, so since Ozotech didn't list a max rating, I assumed it was 440 gallons)).
I know I can DIY everything for a lot cheaper, but I want this entire system to be as user friendly as possible, and take less time than water changes, or at least take less time in one period than water changes (40 minutes 3 days weekly vs. 2 hours 1 day weekly).
If there are cheaper ways to do this, then please list them, but I'd prefer it not be DIY, because everything needs to be simple, and the few more complicated parts should be easy to remember. I know drip systems are an option that can give similar if not the same results, but my Dad is strongly opposed to this idea. He thinks he can do it cheaper and simpler, but his idea ended up being more complicated, and less effective.
This will be a long process, as I'm not sure how much of this I need to pay for myself, so don't expect updates on this any time soon. Thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.
J jaws7777
kno4te
markstrimaran
Tomt37
tarheel96
Fish Tank Travis
You may be interested in this thread.
With college being just a few years away, I want to make my tank as low maintenance as possible for my parents. Hopefully all they will have to do is feed the fish, and clean the nitrate equipment or replace media 2-3 each year. I plan to have enough equipment to not have any single piece of overworked; preferably they'll all be underworked to keep them cleaner, help the media last longer, and to reduce maintenance for each individual piece of equipment.
Even if college won't interfere with my maintenance schedule or vice versa, I would still like to give myself more free time, as I basically have none between aquarium maintenance and honors/AP classes.
The equipment/materials/supplies I found on BRS that I plan to use are:
1 cubic foot of 2" Marinepure Ceramic Biomedia Cubes
CW-300 Algae Scrubber
Skimz 528gph Quietpro 2.0
Save A Watt P4472
Skimz RR153 Recirculating Biopellet Reactor
1 Gallon BRS Bulk Biopellets
Skimz Monzter NM152 Nitrate Reactor
Caribsea Live Sulfur Media
Milwaukee MC510 ORP controller
Ozotech Poseidon 220 kit:
220mg/hr Ozotech Poseidon generator
large air dryer with beads
milwaukee MC510 ORP controller
BRS 6 Stage 150gpd RO/DI System
1/2" Normally Closed Valve
Tunze Osmolator Unviversal 3155 ATO
Tunze Osmolator Switched Socket Outlet
Float Switch
Lifeguard Quiet One Pro 800
Misc container for RO/DI waste water - Likely a barrel or storage bin
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I plan to have the ozone at the beginning of the sump, in the same compartment as the filter socks. This section should have the most flow, and should give the ozone enough time to gas out before it reaches the bio media. If it doesn't have enough time/flow to gas out, then the waterfall from the filter sock section to the biomedia section should remove the rest. I'm also considering an ozone reactor, so the ozone may gas out before it even reaches the sump. I read that the ideal ORP for ozone is 350-400, so I'll try to keep it at 375.
The simplest part is the Marinepure media. I'll just place it in a low flow area of the sump and the anaerobic bacteria should grow
The biopellet reactor will be in the last section of the sump with the return pump; mainly because that's the only place in the sump that has enough room to fit it. The Biopellet reactor setup should be pretty simple. I'll have a Skimz RR153 Biopellet reactor using 5 cups of BRS Bio Pellets.
The CW-300 Algae scrubber will be ran outside of the sump by a Skimz Quiet Pro 2.0 528gph pump. The pump will once again be in the return pump section of the sump for space reasons. The Algae scrubber's lights will be on a 12 hr timer, 8pm-8am.
The sulfur nitrate filter is where is gets complicated. I plan to use a Skimz Monzter NM152 Nitrate Reactor with 1.75 liters of Caribsea Live Sulfur Media. I will use the Milaukee MC510 ORP controller to keep the ORP between -200 and -150. I've read that below -200 ORP means there isn't enough flow, and above -150 ORP means there is too much flow. Assuming this is true, I'll try to keep the ORP at -175.
The most complicated part will be the fully automated auto top off system. I plan to have the RO/DI connect to the tap, with a normally open/closed (whichever is cheaper. Either will work, all I have to do is flip the detectors for the ATO depending on which one I use) blocking water from entering the RO/DI. When enough water evaporates, the ATO will feed power to the normally closed valve, which will then open; filling the sump with new RO/DI water. Once the sump is full, the ATO will turn off, the valve will close, and the RO/DI will stop filling the sump. The waste water from the RO/DI will enter a container, where I'll just use a float switch to power the Lifeguard Quiet Pro One rather than another full ATO system, as I don't mind DIYing this part to save $200, and I don't need the other functions of an RO/DI. The Lifeguard pump will then pump the water into the drain line for the 210 water changes, which then takes the water outside. This allows me to use pre-existing plumbing rather than having to plumb another separate drain line. The RO/DI system should prevent the hardness from increasing, thus fully removing the need for water changes.
Now here's my main question - Am I crazy or could this system actually work?
Are there any changes I need to make to what I've explained so far, or anything that I missed? Are there any incompatibilities with the equipment I plan to use? Will this be enough to remove all the nitrate from my 210 (and 75g sump that I usually keep nearly full)? All the nitrate removal equipment is rated for ~400 gallons (Nitrate Reactor: up to 396 gallons, Algae Scrubber: up to 400 gallons, Biopellet Reactor: up to 415 gallons, Ozone Generator: up to 440 gallons (I read that most manufactures recommend 0.5mg/hr per gallon, so since Ozotech didn't list a max rating, I assumed it was 440 gallons)).
I know I can DIY everything for a lot cheaper, but I want this entire system to be as user friendly as possible, and take less time than water changes, or at least take less time in one period than water changes (40 minutes 3 days weekly vs. 2 hours 1 day weekly).
If there are cheaper ways to do this, then please list them, but I'd prefer it not be DIY, because everything needs to be simple, and the few more complicated parts should be easy to remember. I know drip systems are an option that can give similar if not the same results, but my Dad is strongly opposed to this idea. He thinks he can do it cheaper and simpler, but his idea ended up being more complicated, and less effective.
This will be a long process, as I'm not sure how much of this I need to pay for myself, so don't expect updates on this any time soon. Thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.
J jaws7777
kno4te
markstrimaran
Tomt37
tarheel96
Fish Tank Travis
You may be interested in this thread.
Last edited:
