Alright so then I should only have to treat the water based on a 2.64 ppm chloramine level? Should I do a dose for 3ppm to be safe?
Ammonia showing up or not?
- Thread starter Finthusiast
- Start date
I would highly recommend buying one of these. https://www.seachem.com/ammonia-alert.php
Also check my comments in this recent discussion.
www.monsterfishkeepers.com
Also check my comments in this recent discussion.
New tank smells bad.
So I just set up my 130g tank. I moved everything from my 90g to the 130g tank. tank has aquarclear 110 x 2 for filtration. It took me about 3-4 hours to move everything from one tank to the other. During the move I put all fish in a tote and put one filter on the tote running. The second...
www.monsterfishkeepers.com
The chloramine range is kind of all over the place, as high as 4.5 ppm, so I would treat for at least 3 ppm year round, and if you notice any issues during spring run off, heavy storms, etc, when typically higher disinfectant residual levels are present, just keep that in mind, and treat accordingly.
There are plenty of tests available to check your personal tap waters chloramine concentration.
They are usually available at big box garden centers, hardware stores, or any place that sells pool supplies.
The multiple test below made for swimming pools, is very useful in that it also indicates, hardness, pH, alkalinity, and even nitrate
Depending how far you are from the chloramine injection point, will determine your personal taps chloramine residual.
As chloramine travels thru the distribution system, it is used up as it contacts organics matter.
At the water plant where I worked, the average chloramine dose was around 1.5 ppm, but by the time it reached my house a few miles away, it was often times 1.0ppm, or even 0.9ppm.
If you are far enough away from your cities water plant, it could be just a trace, or if you are close, almost full strength, only you can determine this with testing.
By the way Chloramine on the test above, its listed as "Total Chlorine" , the 4th test down, chlorine is often called "free chlorine".
They are usually available at big box garden centers, hardware stores, or any place that sells pool supplies.
The multiple test below made for swimming pools, is very useful in that it also indicates, hardness, pH, alkalinity, and even nitrate
Depending how far you are from the chloramine injection point, will determine your personal taps chloramine residual.
As chloramine travels thru the distribution system, it is used up as it contacts organics matter.
At the water plant where I worked, the average chloramine dose was around 1.5 ppm, but by the time it reached my house a few miles away, it was often times 1.0ppm, or even 0.9ppm.
If you are far enough away from your cities water plant, it could be just a trace, or if you are close, almost full strength, only you can determine this with testing.
By the way Chloramine on the test above, its listed as "Total Chlorine" , the 4th test down, chlorine is often called "free chlorine".
duanes
I think that you are thinking about chlorine, not chloramine. Chloramine typically retains its strength in a distribution system far better/longer than chlorine.
I use the Hach chlorine test strips to test for chlorine/chloramine. I use the test to determine if my carbon blocks are still running efficiently. Total chlorine is chloramine+chlorine. Free chlorine is just chlorine, so Total - Free = chloramine
thanks
duanes
for the info very interesting.
RD.
does this come with the ammonia alert https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Mult...argid=aud-799711277694:pla-362740438447&psc=1
duanes
for the info very interesting.
RD.
does this come with the ammonia alert https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Mult...argid=aud-799711277694:pla-362740438447&psc=1
thanks
No ammonia alert is different. If you follow the directions, you can test for either ammonia or total ammonia.
This is ammonia alert, and it goes in the tank on a permanent basis for 1 year.
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-0010...ia+alert&qid=1572984722&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-1
