Thanks everyone...well, as far as tips, I'll be brutally honest. I think the heart of it lies with the setup. Here's my recipe:
This is for the breeding girls. All juvies and males are kept with the same routine year-round.
Summer months (May-September): Feed the crap out of the girls. 1-2 weaned rats every 7 days. Feeding smaller prey keeps their system steady and keeps them hungry - they get more calories eating 1-2 weaned rats every 7 days than if they were to eat 1 medium or large every 2 weeks. Ball pythons do better on smaller prey (not to mention some of them are shy and are just intimidated by larger rodents). Temps are 92-94 on the warm spot and 82-84 everywhere else.
Oct 1: At night, the warm spot goes down to 82, the rest of the tub can drop to 80. I do this from 9pm to 9am. Daytime temps are the same as above. Feed the females every other week, no doubles, smaller prey too.
November 1: Pairing begins. Just put whatever male you want with whatever female and leave them alone for 24 hours. Males are whores and breed without much outside influence (usually). Pairing and night time cooling continues until the end of February.
March 1: As far as the snakes are concerned, its summer again. Night-time cooling stops and its back to daytime. Females are off of food by now. You want them to be "empty" so there's room for follicles to grow, and this is why it is so important that females have adequate size on them before you think about breeding them. They will use about 1/3-1/2 of their body weight to produce eggs. Pairing stops at this time.
From March until now its all about watching the females, checking for ovulations, and waiting for eggs!
Breeding ball pythons is really all about having precise control of your temperatures. I've probably got $1000 worth of thermostats in my snake room - Helix, Herpstats, Ranco - best investment you can make if you are serious about breeding ball pythons.