This is because of the ammonia... the reason why he was eating was when he was first in there wasn’t high ammonia but as he ate and pooped the ammonia rose and because the tank wasn’t cycled it had nowhere to go and because he’s in the water with it he feels sick and won’t feel like eating ( which is good because food =poop= ammonia) A RTC can love for MONTHS without eating... he’s not going to die from lack of food. But he might die from the ammonia.
Another RTC Question:(
- Thread starter Dylan Sanders
- Start date
Okay just verifying this okay so just 2-3 50% water changes a day?? Could I possibly put him into the 10 gallon until the 55 is fully cycled?? 10 gallon is and it’s a lot less to WC every day, knowing he is just a fry
NO ... a 10 gallon is insanely too small for a 3-4 inch RTC the problem will be worse... just do 1 50% wc a day for the next week or so then move it along to 1 every 2 days etc and eventually twice a week and leave it at twice a week regardless of the tank size he’s in for the next 35 years.
Your best bet is to go to a local fish store and ask them if they will sell you some of their used cycled filter media from 1 of their systems.
If you manage to get enough to fill your filter carry on using prime and do a 70% water change every 3rd day, feed 1 small peice of food a day and remove it if not eaten in 5 mins, that’s your only way to get through it if it’s not already to late! also don’t put the lights on as you want him as stress free as possible.
I know what it’s like to want a fish really badly and you think you’ll figure it out but you are seriously unprepared to keep any fish properly let alone 1 of the harderst fish in the world to house! Get yourself a water test kit (I use API) do a load of research as you clearly don’t know the basics at the moment. Get to know a local fish store staff (no chain stores like petco, etc) and they’ll offer you much better advice. They’re are plenty of people on here willing to help but please research before you buy anymore fish in the future. Sorry to bash on you a bit but I’m being honest.
Hope you manage to get sorted, let me know if you need anymore advise and I’ll try to help
If you manage to get enough to fill your filter carry on using prime and do a 70% water change every 3rd day, feed 1 small peice of food a day and remove it if not eaten in 5 mins, that’s your only way to get through it if it’s not already to late! also don’t put the lights on as you want him as stress free as possible.
I know what it’s like to want a fish really badly and you think you’ll figure it out but you are seriously unprepared to keep any fish properly let alone 1 of the harderst fish in the world to house! Get yourself a water test kit (I use API) do a load of research as you clearly don’t know the basics at the moment. Get to know a local fish store staff (no chain stores like petco, etc) and they’ll offer you much better advice. They’re are plenty of people on here willing to help but please research before you buy anymore fish in the future. Sorry to bash on you a bit but I’m being honest.
Hope you manage to get sorted, let me know if you need anymore advise and I’ll try to help
So much misinformation in this thread already, where to begin...
If you are doing 50% water changes daily, Stop. The tank is never going to cycle doing that much volume on a new tank especially with a single baby RTC in it.
If you were thinking about doing a 70% water change at any point excluding absolute desperation due to filter dying while out of town or something being spilled in the tank, Stop. There is no need for this much volume and it will likely cause huge pH and temperature swings during the process which can be very detrimental to the fish. Most people recommend 50% as the max and I'd say after the tank is established you could do them weekly safely but also probably fine every other week depending on the bio-load in the tank (volume of fish relative to gallons of water) and feeding schedule.
It doesn't take weeks to cycle a tank, without any existing filter media or water if can be done in a week, or less if you're using some filter media/water/substrate from an already running tank.
If you bought a RTC and only have a 55 gallon tank, you have made a mistake. That fish can grow from 2" to 7" in a single month easily if given the proper amount of food, in 2 months it could literally be 10-12" and already have outgrown the 55g. Your construction of an outdoor pond will not matter unless you live in a tropical climate or very deep south with additional heat if in the US. You need sustained water temperatures no lower than 72 to keep it alive, it might survive short periods under that but generally 72-86 is good 76-82 is ideal.
Most catfish can live a while without eating, I've seen some go on 1-2 month hunger strikes where they will not feed at all. Not catfish but another example my South American Lungfish went on a close to 3 month hunger strike without any negative effect or visual change.
The Hikari sinking carnivore pellets are to big for a 3" RTC to eat with crushing them up some, it will probably readily feed on those at 6"+ however. Feed in small increments and as mentioned remove any uneaten food because it will quickly contaminate your water. I would feed daily at this size and when larger like 12"+ switch to every other day or every couple days. Most larger SA cats don't need daily meals and I've had great success feeding further apart on a dozen different species.
Prime was a good recommendation in the appropriate dosage, it is very concentrated so be aware of that when treating the tank. Usually one cap full treats a 55g if memory serves. Also a good water test kit like the API mentioned is a small investment to track your chemicals and keep everything in check.
Start planning more realistically on a future home for the RTC immediately, whether it's buying/building a MUCH larger tank starting now, giving it back to the shop if they'll take it later on, donating to another member with proper housing space, or donating to your local aquarium. You've bought one of the fastest growing catfish species there is and it will need room to grow.
If you are doing 50% water changes daily, Stop. The tank is never going to cycle doing that much volume on a new tank especially with a single baby RTC in it.
If you were thinking about doing a 70% water change at any point excluding absolute desperation due to filter dying while out of town or something being spilled in the tank, Stop. There is no need for this much volume and it will likely cause huge pH and temperature swings during the process which can be very detrimental to the fish. Most people recommend 50% as the max and I'd say after the tank is established you could do them weekly safely but also probably fine every other week depending on the bio-load in the tank (volume of fish relative to gallons of water) and feeding schedule.
It doesn't take weeks to cycle a tank, without any existing filter media or water if can be done in a week, or less if you're using some filter media/water/substrate from an already running tank.
If you bought a RTC and only have a 55 gallon tank, you have made a mistake. That fish can grow from 2" to 7" in a single month easily if given the proper amount of food, in 2 months it could literally be 10-12" and already have outgrown the 55g. Your construction of an outdoor pond will not matter unless you live in a tropical climate or very deep south with additional heat if in the US. You need sustained water temperatures no lower than 72 to keep it alive, it might survive short periods under that but generally 72-86 is good 76-82 is ideal.
Most catfish can live a while without eating, I've seen some go on 1-2 month hunger strikes where they will not feed at all. Not catfish but another example my South American Lungfish went on a close to 3 month hunger strike without any negative effect or visual change.
The Hikari sinking carnivore pellets are to big for a 3" RTC to eat with crushing them up some, it will probably readily feed on those at 6"+ however. Feed in small increments and as mentioned remove any uneaten food because it will quickly contaminate your water. I would feed daily at this size and when larger like 12"+ switch to every other day or every couple days. Most larger SA cats don't need daily meals and I've had great success feeding further apart on a dozen different species.
Prime was a good recommendation in the appropriate dosage, it is very concentrated so be aware of that when treating the tank. Usually one cap full treats a 55g if memory serves. Also a good water test kit like the API mentioned is a small investment to track your chemicals and keep everything in check.
Start planning more realistically on a future home for the RTC immediately, whether it's buying/building a MUCH larger tank starting now, giving it back to the shop if they'll take it later on, donating to another member with proper housing space, or donating to your local aquarium. You've bought one of the fastest growing catfish species there is and it will need room to grow.
I agree with most of what you said
amazonfishman
but I do a 70% water change at least once a month and have never had any issues, as long as it’s the usual water source and the temperature is close to what the tank is it will be ok, and with the tank only being 55 I can also see nitrates becoming high quickly
amazonfishman
but I do a 70% water change at least once a month and have never had any issues, as long as it’s the usual water source and the temperature is close to what the tank is it will be ok, and with the tank only being 55 I can also see nitrates becoming high quickly
Good advice above. I agree with Taksan, Shane, and Trent. I don't necessarily see a contradiction.
Your problem right now is ammonia and nitrite. Surely, buy a liquid test tube kit. Don't go to LFS to have your water measured, not with this fish and this kind of commitment.
As long as you read any ammonia over zero ppm by an API test tube kit - I'd use Ammolock per directions on the label to detox ammonia.
As long as you get any nitrite readings above zero ppm by the same kit, I'd use 100x excess of table salt to detox the nitrite (do not confuse with nitrate, which you don't need to be concerned with for now).
Don't feed the fish.
It can survive a couple of weeks, even though it is so small yet.
***************************************
I wanted to reintroduce Taksan and welcome him back to MFK. He is a legendary keeper who holds an unbroken record of RTC keeping - a pair for 29 years in a 15,000 gal pond! This is a mind-blowing accomplishment.
Your problem right now is ammonia and nitrite. Surely, buy a liquid test tube kit. Don't go to LFS to have your water measured, not with this fish and this kind of commitment.
As long as you read any ammonia over zero ppm by an API test tube kit - I'd use Ammolock per directions on the label to detox ammonia.
As long as you get any nitrite readings above zero ppm by the same kit, I'd use 100x excess of table salt to detox the nitrite (do not confuse with nitrate, which you don't need to be concerned with for now).
Don't feed the fish.
It can survive a couple of weeks, even though it is so small yet.
***************************************
I wanted to reintroduce Taksan and welcome him back to MFK. He is a legendary keeper who holds an unbroken record of RTC keeping - a pair for 29 years in a 15,000 gal pond! This is a mind-blowing accomplishment.
Thanks so much Viktor for your kind words ... especially coming from you. Feels good to be back
So little update, all my water test and perfect besides my ph which I bought liquid increase.. bought him a black pvc pipes going in 4 directions, and went and made the sump pump and used a 70 gallon pump on it and he started to breath normal after 24 hours and he just ate 1 little piece of tilapia, he doesn’t like the pellets. Also got tank mate koi fish, so what I’ve heard they are fine just worry about the catfish’s mouth. Correct me if I’m wrong but I am always by the tank just Incase or I can move him. Thank again for the advise which I know I messed up but now I know
