If the test on the left is done using normal range pH reagents, the dark blue color, suggests your pH is too high to be measured for the low range reagents (above 7.6),
and you should now try the high range pH reagents to get a more accurate reading.
The pH of my tank always overwhelms the low range reagents, so I only use high range, and below is the result using high end test, suggesting my pH is at 8 or above..
The others look lie 0.00 ammonia, 0.00 nitrite, and 0.00 nitrate.
This either means, the tank is not cycled, or....depending on how long it's been sett up
its not been set up long enough to build normal nitrate.
My nitrate tests always turn out yellow (0.00 pp nitrate) because ny sump is heavily planted, and the plants use up the nitrate as fast as the fish produce the nitrate precursors.
Just to illustrate there are intangiblesin natural, or tank water that sometimes effect color in all testing
Above is a similar chemical test for ammonia I used as a chemist.
It uses a known standard (2ppm), a DI blank, and the unknown sample.
The DI blank (no ammonia is in the right)
The known standard (2 ppm ammonia) in the middle
And my tank water left..
Tank water always contains certain components such as debris (particulate), or turbidity (color) that influence the end resulting color.
Or... if the tester has not sufficiently rinsed the vial between tests.
I rinse 3 times before a each test, and 3 times after each test before going on to another.
Because you are dealing in ppm, even the slightest residual (wet or dried on) from a previous test cause skew results,
