Apologies but it's an Algae question

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Cyanobacteria primarily feeds on phosphate so even if your nitrates are low you can still have cyano growth.
It can even grow in low light conditions because it is a bacteria so unless you do a total blackout lowering the light will probably not help a lot.
Peroxide will work and is relatively safe but only as a topical solution, meaning if you can remove a piece of driftwood or rock and spray outside the tank it will kill it.
You can also spray things inside the tank while the water level is low, but not too much.
Hydrogen peroxide breaks down to its key components fairly quickly (oxygen and hydrogen) which turns to water so it is pretty safe.
But what you cannot do with Hydrogen peroxide is use it as a dosage by adding it directly to the aquarium.
Because it take a certain amount of time to break down, during which it can be harmful to fishes gills and slime coat as it will break down organics during this time.
Antibiotic type medication like erythromycin will kill but is really not necessary, except in extreme circumstances.
I’ve never used septic tank bacteria to control Cyanobacteria but I can see where it may be a good option.
Thanks. But Hydrogen peroxide is pretty scarce now a days given the pendamic. But I will try on a smaller piece of wood in aquarium
 
Scraping Cyanobacteria off, and vacuuming is a temporary solution because it almost never gets it all.
Cells always remain and regrow.
Treating with an antibiotic could affect your beneficial bacteria, and if not applied strong enough could create super Cyanobacteria resistant strains.
The point of adding Rid-X or any other probiotic product, is that the bacterial colonies they provide out compete Cyano, and prevent its return.
It comes as a dry mix, in a flour like material, and if added direct to the tank, can be quite messy.
When I used it I would put a tbsp in a filter sock hanging in a sump, near a flowing stream of water.
When the bacteria become hydrated, they easily pass thru the sock and enter the tank, after a day or so, I would then remove the sock and rinse out the flour like material, to not cloud the tank water..
It could also be added to a separate vessel of full of old tank water, which could then be filtered as that water is added to the tank.
Might add some temporary cloudiness until settled.
Thanks really appreciated. Do you mind posting the link for RideX on Amazon please ? Or anywhere
 
Thanks. But Hydrogen peroxide is pretty scarce now a days given the pendamic. But I will try on a smaller piece of wood in aquarium
I’m not advocating for or against hydrogen peroxide.
I was simply better explaining its use and precautions.
In dealing with Cyanobacteria I’ve never had to resort to any type treatment other then regular maintenance and water changes it usually doesn’t require me stepping in it goes away on its own eventually.
I will add that you may want to check your source water because excess Po4 can be present and would or could be feeding the cyano.
 
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Some aquarists over on a plant forum have had success with Boyd's Chemiclean for cyanobacteria but I haven't tried it myself.
 
I took duanes duanes advise and went with rid-x to treat my tanks.
left to right shows the progress over a few weeks. E299F54A-014E-43DF-B66D-D68005E024F2.jpeg
I haven’t had any new cyano growth in any of the tanks since.
 
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I took duanes duanes advise and went with rid-x to treat my tanks.
left to right shows the progress over a few weeks. View attachment 1410165
I haven’t had any new cyano growth in any of the tanks since.
Thanks I am almost certain now that what I am dealing with. Will be getting Rid X soon.
 
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