Aquarium repair help

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I have repaired a number of tanks using the glass sandwich method.

as you can see above, there is a large crack on an end, and a stress crack on the back panel, the repair ran around $50 maybe slightly more, about 8 years ago.
For the end I used two pieces outside and in the same size of the tank panel.
In the back I used 2 panes larger than the crack, to allow for pressure after being filled.
The tank is 6ft L (135 or 150 gal), and is still in use by a friend.
Because I wasn't worried about tensile strength I used GE1.


Besides sealing around the glass edges, I also used silicon on the cracks.
Here it is repaired, the cracks did not grow..

One caveat, if because a brace is broken, and the water pressure is too much, you may want to use something with more tensile strength than GE1.
I have a tank that leaks now after a few earthquakes, and since the two upper braces are broken, although the leak is lessened it still seeps.
Here is a better holding silicone, costs more but well worth a few extra bucks.
fullsizeoutput_1496.jpeg
If I suspected water pressure might separate seems, I would use it, and add some Euro bracing.
On my seepy tank now I use clamps permanently, because of the frequent earth quakes here, although partially hidden with plants, you can see the clamps in the pic above.
fullsizeoutput_19d4.jpegfullsizeoutput_19d4.jpeg
 
I have repaired a number of tanks using the glass sandwich method.

as you can see above, there is a large crack on an end, and a stress crack on the back panel, the repair ran around $50 maybe slightly more, about 8 years ago.
For the end I used two pieces outside and in the same size of the tank panel.
In the back I used 2 panes larger than the crack, to allow for pressure after being filled.
The tank is 6ft L (135 or 150 gal), and is still in use by a friend.
Because I wasn't worried about tensile strength I used GE1.


Besides sealing around the glass edges, I also used silicon on the cracks.
Here it is repaired, the cracks did not grow..

One caveat, if because a brace is broken, and the water pressure is too much, you may want to use something with more tensile strength than GE1.
I have a tank that leaks now after a few earthquakes, and since the two upper braces are broken, although the leak is lessened it still seeps.
Here is a better holding silicone, costs more but well worth a few extra bucks.
View attachment 1390252
If I suspected water pressure might separate seems, I would use it, and add some Euro bracing.
On my seepy tank now I use clamps permanently, because of the frequent earth quakes here, although partially hidden with plants, you can see the clamps in the pic above.
View attachment 1390253View attachment 1390253
That's what I was thinking about doing. My only problem is the crack goes right up the back of my tank, almost in the middle of the 6 foot panel
 
An aquarium that size is equivalent to almost three bathtubs filled to the top. If you repair it make sure you do it right because that much water can cause thousands of dollars in damage.
I will definitely be testing it in my garage for a while at least until it gets to cold in the Northeast US to keep water in it (garage isn't heated)
 
So you are saying no matter how good of a seal I get it'll still leak? Why just because of the pressure, wouldn't the silicone keep the water from getting to the old piece.
I definitely am going to be either fixing or replacing the brace.

Because new silicone won't stick to the cured silicone, water can seep where ever they join. The only sure way to prevent this is to scrape out the old interior silicone, then re-seal the entire interior and the crack, plus any interior patch, at one time.

This is best done at low humidity, as on a really humid day the silicone will cure too fast.

Anyhow, by the time you do all that labor to do a good patch, you'd might as well replace the whole panel.
 
Because new silicone won't stick to the cured silicone, water can seep where ever they join. The only sure way to prevent this is to scrape out the old interior silicone, then re-seal the entire interior and the crack, plus any interior patch, at one time.

This is best done at low humidity, as on a really humid day the silicone will cure too fast.

Anyhow, by the time you do all that labor to do a good patch, you'd might as well replace the whole panel.
Makes sense, just a little scary to do. Only silicone work I've done was a small pond in a terrarium. My biggest concern/problem is I can't move the tank by myself (400lbs) empty. Also would it be better to have it on lts side until the seams cure and then put it back on the bottom to do the inside or leave it on its bottom when replacing the panel.
 
. . . I am not the greatest at silicone and replacing the panel makes me nervous. I only paid $200 for the tank so buying a new/used tank is not an option as used tanks in my area are $900+

You'll spend $250 on glass, silicone, and razor blades. So now that tank costs $450. Then it takes 8 hours of your labor. Difficult and tedious.
 
You'll spend $250 on glass, silicone, and razor blades. So now that tank costs $450. Then it takes 8 hours of your labor. Difficult and tedious.
Any tricks/ guides on how to do the silicone right and make it look decent, doesn't have to be pretty.
 
Makes sense, just a little scary to do. Only silicone work I've done was a small pond in a terrarium. My biggest concern/problem is I can't move the tank by myself (400lbs) empty. Also would it be better to have it on lts side until the seams cure and then put it back on the bottom to do the inside or leave it on its bottom when replacing the panel.

I would lay it on the front. Just don't move it for 7 days after applying the sealant. It's best to apply the glass then do the inside seal before it cures.
 
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Any tricks/ guides on how to do the silicone right and make it look decent, doesn't have to be pretty.

Apply masking tape to each side of each seam, apply the sealant, then remove the tape carefully before cure starts.
Several guys demonstrate this on YouTube, using small tanks.

If you get silicone on the glass where it shouldn't be, don't rub it when wet. Slice it off after it cures.
 
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I would lay it on the front. Just don't move it for 7 days after applying the sealant. It's best to apply the glass then do the inside seal before it cures.
Okay, one more question what about my overflows (wiers I believe is what they are called) should I cut them out and then reseal them when I do the inside or just cut the side that's touching the back and put a bead of silicone on it like I would the side and bottom panel.
 
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