Aquatop CF400-UV

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
So koltsixx, are you saying that these UV's are probably not even increasing redox? You said the dwell time wasn't significant enough, meaning too fast? Why would a higher rated cannister be more effective for the use of UV if dwell time and maybe wattage is more important?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 
So koltsixx, are you saying that these UV's are probably not even increasing redox? You said the dwell time wasn't significant enough, meaning too fast? Why would a higher rated cannister be more effective for the use of UV if dwell time and maybe wattage is more important?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using MonsterAquariaNetwork App

PM me the length and diameter of the quartz sleeve (glass part only). Measure and provide me the diameter of the hole in the tray and total height of the trays where the UV goes. Give me bulb length too. Lastly, tell me what size tank you got this on. I will run the UV dosage program to see how much this baby is really putting out for you.

For reference:
Algae (green water) requires dosage of 22mJ/cm^2
Industry (waste water) 30 mJ/cm^2
NSF 55 class A (drinking water) 40 mJ/cm^2
Swimming pool 60 mJ/cm^2
Aquaculture 320mJ/cm^2

Must MFK tanks only require 50-60 mJ/cm^2 (assuming rays and basic pathogen control)
 
kendragon, I cant break down my canister yet. I'll PM you this weekend with the measurements. Thanks! so what about the pbass? are you in Hawaii by the way?
 
So koltsixx, are you saying that these UV's are probably not even increasing redox? You said the dwell time wasn't significant enough, meaning too fast? Why would a higher rated cannister be more effective for the use of UV if dwell time and maybe wattage is more important?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
I was being sarcastic because in my opinion if there was an algae reduction it was because of the added filtration of a canister that's rated to filter a tank 2.4 times larger then it's applied on. Essentially trying to say if you want to fool yourself into thinking the UV's doing something just buy a filter rated for a tank 2.4 times larger.

PM me the length and diameter of the quartz sleeve (glass part only). Measure and provide me the diameter of the hole in the tray and total height of the trays where the UV goes. Give me bulb length too. Lastly, tell me what size tank you got this on. I will run the UV dosage program to see how much this baby is really putting out for you.

For reference:
Algae (green water) requires dosage of 22mJ/cm^2
Industry (waste water) 30 mJ/cm^2
NSF 55 class A (drinking water) 40 mJ/cm^2
Swimming pool 60 mJ/cm^2
Aquaculture 320mJ/cm^2

Must MFK tanks only require 50-60 mJ/cm^2 (assuming rays and basic pathogen control)
I've been told by many people that you're the resident Guru when it comes to UV's in this application and are always willing to help. So I have to ask is there any kind of working formula you could contribute so that a members could figure these things out for themselves or at least approximate how effective their UV clarifier/sterilizer is? Maybe even some suggestions as to which are currently the best on the market currently. I personally believe UV's will become increasingly more important to the hobby as the understanding of them and their possible applications increase and such info. would be in my opinion sticky worthy and if you put forth such an effort to write a thread explaining such things I for one would push for it to be stickied.
 
For us simpletons, practical observation is the deciding factor. Not discouraging folks like koltsixx to play around with numbers.

UV filter, turn it on, algae gone --- not really that complicated.

BTW, I have another 75 gallon tank with Fluval 406, Rena XPM and Penguin 350, care to explain the green algae ?
 
For us simpletons, practical observation is the deciding factor. Not discouraging folks like koltsixx to play around with numbers.

UV filter, turn it on, algae gone --- not really that complicated.

BTW, I have another 75 gallon tank with Fluval 406, Rena XPM and Penguin 350, care to explain the green algae ?

How does difference in opinion turn into I'm discouraging? I never offered any numbers such as suggested dwell times, distance from UV source or GPH so I don't even know what you're referencing? I tried to keep it simple and save people from wasting money on a replacement bulb that is doing in my opinion very little if anything. I can only assume that your feelings got hurt because I disagreed with you, well let me explain.

Just because a person disagrees with you it doesn't mean they're implying your a "simpleton" it simply means their experiences and knowledge differs and they're trying to share it for everyone's benefit. I personally consider myself a novice and will tell you there's a lot more a novice can do then practical observation. They can research, read and ask others more experienced then they and should never feel ashamed about it. No one knows everything so why get all hurt because you're as human as the next guy? Right?

As for your question about the difference between the 2 tanks, lets be honest your trying to get in a pissing contest using that as a facade. Now why would I do that when I've already seen that you're easily offended and it would be a futile back and forth where no one would profit? It wouldn't help anyone and would just derail the thread unnecessarily.
 
I can tell you from my experience, the UV works for water clarification just fine (it's clearer when it's on after it's been off, simply put). It doesn't really matter anyway, it's just an extra feature on the unit anyway.
There has always been a bit of a weird prejudice against these canisters I never understood. You probably aren't going to do better for the price. I've run or currently run eheim, fluval, and rena.


Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
 
Sorry koltsixx! I didnt intend to create such a ruckus! Looking back, I understand your referrence being sarcastic, LOL! For guys like me who cant afford to spend much money on our aquaria, the thought that a cheap canister with UV actually doing what it claims is like hitting a small jack-pot in a Vegas casino! Not likely to happen and how much money did you really spend to hit it!
 
Guys, I would not give up on these canisters so soon. Let's analyze the dosage instead of guessing. Unfortunately, the program I run is a licensed software specific for UV design. I'm sure you can calculate it by hand but you will probably need a master degree in math. Data required to run the program is bulb length, sleeve length, sleeve diameter, chamber length, chamber diameter, transmittance, gph, sleeve material, wattage, bulb efficiency. So whoever can provide the info, please.
 
If I was running a large system with thousands of dollars worth of fish, I would advise you look into a UV more closely and not rely on something like this.
I throw these on 75 gallon tanks with a few fish and they do well for that. If that's what you're looking for, it's a good option.


Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com