ATTENTION ALL MFKERS!!!
- Thread starter DeLgAdO
- Start date
Dang it, I wasn't going to get into this thread..
I once read, If you drink too much R.O. water it can dehydrate you, and even kill you. It is so purified, it has a natural chemical make-up that makes it actually 'suck-in' the minerals from your body. I don't know how true this is.
Salt + Heat = No Ick.
You can use pretty much any salt, just don't use Marine salt.
You guys can bicker over the salt issue all you wan't. Theres scientific reports and I too have ready many of the 'salt' studies on aquarium fish. It's nothing to fuss over. I buy 50lbs of Water Softening salt at Wal-mart for $6/bag.
Soo.. We are done with the salt issue.
If you do water changes with cold water, your asking for Ich.
However, if you keep your python submersed during water changes, toxic gasses can build up from the pressure of the tap water, and that will also give your fish ich really easy.
I had always done %50 water change every week, and one day my community tank broke out with a very serious case of ich. After one water change, my entire tank was lined with tiny micro-bubbles, which then led to ich. This was the pressure in the tap that I was talking about. Make sure the Python is above the water level, so it can create a 'gas exchange' before the new water enters the tank.
Temprature swings can also cause ich. Get yourself a heater, as most of your fish would prefer 80-83 degrees. The new polypterus you added most likely was harboring the ich virus, in a dormant stage. Once it was put into it's new environment, any levels of stress could of caused the ich to manifest itself.
Tropical fish can take an increase in temprature with little to no problem at all, but when a fish is put into a new environment where the temp is constantly 2-5 degrees lower than what it is used to, it can also cause problems. The polypterus you purchased may have been used to a nicely heated tank, then when added to your tank that is cooler, it became stressed and the ich parasite began to become more abundant.
Ich is also heat sensative, and temprature can increase/decrease the metabolism of the parasite. So the cooler your tank is, the longer the ich parasite will stay 'dormant' in that environment, which means when stress levels become higher, the parasite will show itself. That is why you always treat with salt and heat for 7 days afterwards. There are some great articles on how ich's reproductive cycle works, and how to stop it from reproducing, and I believe they were already linked in this thread..
As far as your setup Delago, things seem fine. Keep on with your water changes, just keep the python above water level and watch out for those huge temp swings. With a heavy bio-load always over-filtrate your tanks, and keep your filters clean and free of detritus. Dirty filters can cause nitrate explosions and lead to a quick outbreak.
You're Dad is a fool as far as the too big of water change situation, as it is obviously clear that he dosn't know what hes talking about. Tell him he is going to live in a room and his fecal matter can not be removed from that room except for once a month. On that day, once a month, he can only remove 1/3rd of his fecal matter. Now, tell me, Do you think living in conditions like this could possibly lead to disease or infection?
Just my 2 cents
Miles
I once read, If you drink too much R.O. water it can dehydrate you, and even kill you. It is so purified, it has a natural chemical make-up that makes it actually 'suck-in' the minerals from your body. I don't know how true this is.
Salt + Heat = No Ick.
You can use pretty much any salt, just don't use Marine salt.
You guys can bicker over the salt issue all you wan't. Theres scientific reports and I too have ready many of the 'salt' studies on aquarium fish. It's nothing to fuss over. I buy 50lbs of Water Softening salt at Wal-mart for $6/bag.
Soo.. We are done with the salt issue.
If you do water changes with cold water, your asking for Ich.
However, if you keep your python submersed during water changes, toxic gasses can build up from the pressure of the tap water, and that will also give your fish ich really easy.
I had always done %50 water change every week, and one day my community tank broke out with a very serious case of ich. After one water change, my entire tank was lined with tiny micro-bubbles, which then led to ich. This was the pressure in the tap that I was talking about. Make sure the Python is above the water level, so it can create a 'gas exchange' before the new water enters the tank.
Temprature swings can also cause ich. Get yourself a heater, as most of your fish would prefer 80-83 degrees. The new polypterus you added most likely was harboring the ich virus, in a dormant stage. Once it was put into it's new environment, any levels of stress could of caused the ich to manifest itself.
Tropical fish can take an increase in temprature with little to no problem at all, but when a fish is put into a new environment where the temp is constantly 2-5 degrees lower than what it is used to, it can also cause problems. The polypterus you purchased may have been used to a nicely heated tank, then when added to your tank that is cooler, it became stressed and the ich parasite began to become more abundant.
Ich is also heat sensative, and temprature can increase/decrease the metabolism of the parasite. So the cooler your tank is, the longer the ich parasite will stay 'dormant' in that environment, which means when stress levels become higher, the parasite will show itself. That is why you always treat with salt and heat for 7 days afterwards. There are some great articles on how ich's reproductive cycle works, and how to stop it from reproducing, and I believe they were already linked in this thread..
As far as your setup Delago, things seem fine. Keep on with your water changes, just keep the python above water level and watch out for those huge temp swings. With a heavy bio-load always over-filtrate your tanks, and keep your filters clean and free of detritus. Dirty filters can cause nitrate explosions and lead to a quick outbreak.
You're Dad is a fool as far as the too big of water change situation, as it is obviously clear that he dosn't know what hes talking about. Tell him he is going to live in a room and his fecal matter can not be removed from that room except for once a month. On that day, once a month, he can only remove 1/3rd of his fecal matter. Now, tell me, Do you think living in conditions like this could possibly lead to disease or infection?
Just my 2 cents
Miles
Hey, DeL. I used to work in Chula Vista back in '86. Worked for a couple of dialysis clinics,the other was in IB. My job was working on the machines and doing reuse cycling on the filters. I began each shift with extensive water and air tests, and I can tell you SD water can get freaky. Just be glad that you don't get your water from the Tijuana River!
Before that job I worked at Brunswick Technetics in Solana Beach. We made filters, and my job was QA. We had a huge RO system and there's nothing wrong with RO. In fact with complete RO there's nothing at all, so you should supplement your diet with minerals if that's all you drink. A water softener is fine, too; your going to raise your ph with salt anyway. I agree w/ everyone here pretty much, you don't want to stress your fish with radical temperature changes and possibly harmful meds, 'specially loaches. True: stress is what makes them susceptible to ich and other stuff.
Also, it sounds like your dad has you pretty stressed , so it might be a good idea to check yourself....
Good luck.
Before that job I worked at Brunswick Technetics in Solana Beach. We made filters, and my job was QA. We had a huge RO system and there's nothing wrong with RO. In fact with complete RO there's nothing at all, so you should supplement your diet with minerals if that's all you drink. A water softener is fine, too; your going to raise your ph with salt anyway. I agree w/ everyone here pretty much, you don't want to stress your fish with radical temperature changes and possibly harmful meds, 'specially loaches. True: stress is what makes them susceptible to ich and other stuff.
Also, it sounds like your dad has you pretty stressed , so it might be a good idea to check yourself....
Good luck.
Miles said:Dang it, I wasn't going to get into this thread..
I once read, If you drink too much R.O. water it can dehydrate you, and even kill you. It is so purified, it has a natural chemical make-up that makes it actually 'suck-in' the minerals from your body. I don't know how true this is.
Salt + Heat = No Ick.
You can use pretty much any salt, just don't use Marine salt.
You guys can bicker over the salt issue all you wan't. Theres scientific reports and I too have ready many of the 'salt' studies on aquarium fish. It's nothing to fuss over. I buy 50lbs of Water Softening salt at Wal-mart for $6/bag.
Soo.. We are done with the salt issue.
If you do water changes with cold water, your asking for Ich.
However, if you keep your python submersed during water changes, toxic gasses can build up from the pressure of the tap water, and that will also give your fish ich really easy.
I had always done %50 water change every week, and one day my community tank broke out with a very serious case of ich. After one water change, my entire tank was lined with tiny micro-bubbles, which then led to ich. This was the pressure in the tap that I was talking about. Make sure the Python is above the water level, so it can create a 'gas exchange' before the new water enters the tank.
Temprature swings can also cause ich. Get yourself a heater, as most of your fish would prefer 80-83 degrees. The new polypterus you added most likely was harboring the ich virus, in a dormant stage. Once it was put into it's new environment, any levels of stress could of caused the ich to manifest itself.
Tropical fish can take an increase in temprature with little to no problem at all, but when a fish is put into a new environment where the temp is constantly 2-5 degrees lower than what it is used to, it can also cause problems. The polypterus you purchased may have been used to a nicely heated tank, then when added to your tank that is cooler, it became stressed and the ich parasite began to become more abundant.
Ich is also heat sensative, and temprature can increase/decrease the metabolism of the parasite. So the cooler your tank is, the longer the ich parasite will stay 'dormant' in that environment, which means when stress levels become higher, the parasite will show itself. That is why you always treat with salt and heat for 7 days afterwards. There are some great articles on how ich's reproductive cycle works, and how to stop it from reproducing, and I believe they were already linked in this thread..
As far as your setup Delago, things seem fine. Keep on with your water changes, just keep the python above water level and watch out for those huge temp swings. With a heavy bio-load always over-filtrate your tanks, and keep your filters clean and free of detritus. Dirty filters can cause nitrate explosions and lead to a quick outbreak.
You're Dad is a fool as far as the too big of water change situation, as it is obviously clear that he dosn't know what hes talking about. Tell him he is going to live in a room and his fecal matter can not be removed from that room except for once a month. On that day, once a month, he can only remove 1/3rd of his fecal matter. Now, tell me, Do you think living in conditions like this could possibly lead to disease or infection?
Just my 2 cents
Miles
MILES IS THE MAN!!!
Im gunna start using my sink faucet to fill my tank, gunna use the warm water, its getting cooler now and eventually the waters gunna be ice cold, dun worry python will stay above water level
ill be using my heater 365 days a year now
, i feel like the fool 
i like 83 degrees as my prefered temp, that is. . . after i treat the ich, hehe.
i keep my filter in tip top shape just to let you know
turtall said:Hey, DeL. I used to work in Chula Vista back in '86. Worked for a couple of dialysis clinics,the other was in IB. My job was working on the machines and doing reuse cycling on the filters. I began each shift with extensive water and air tests, and I can tell you SD water can get freaky. Just be glad that you don't get your water from the Tijuana River!
Before that job I worked at Brunswick Technetics in Solana Beach. We made filters, and my job was QA. We had a huge RO system and there's nothing wrong with RO. In fact with complete RO there's nothing at all, so you should supplement your diet with minerals if that's all you drink. A water softener is fine, too; your going to raise your ph with salt anyway. I agree w/ everyone here pretty much, you don't want to stress your fish with radical temperature changes and possibly harmful meds, 'specially loaches. True: stress is what makes them susceptible to ich and other stuff.
Also, it sounds like your dad has you pretty stressed , so it might be a good idea to check yourself....
Good luck.
damit mile and turtall! LOL!! i dont only drink r.o water, i drink milk, soda(ocasionally) and various 100% fruit juices, LOL! i even take mult vitamins
yes he does have me ripping my hair out
j/kstressed i am though
TJ'S HOMO!!!
we have a water softener to our house water supplie so it helps our laundry and hard water problems
Serygo said:
well, i added about 64oz of salt ( once tablespoon at a time) to my tanks, its about 2 tblspns per 5 gal, and i ordered 2x 300 watt visitherm heaters, they will be hear in about 2-4 days ( eh i ditched the stainless steel, visiterms are more accurate anyways)
luckily my fish are still eating whic his good
, wut my dad was saying is absolute bull**** 
